Eye Prefer Paris is an ex-New Yorker's insider's guide to Paris. Richard Nahem writes his blog from his fabulous 18th century apartment in the fashionable Marais district of Paris
First it was the bistro that made a comeback in the form of the neo-bistro, then the bouillon restaurant made a splashy return, and now the brasserie is ripe for a return.
Brasserie Bellanger is a perfect example of a classic French institution being reborn in a fresh, relevant way.
Located in a gritty part of the 10th arrondissement near Gard du Nord, Brasserie Bellanger, we arrived at 7:30PM and the restaurant was already buzzing. The black and white tile floor and the well-lit bar gave a lighter ambiance than the usual dark wood and brass of most brasseries.
The menu was straight forward with a selection of hams, sausages, and dried beef, then a short list of 6 entrees including leeks vinaigrette and oeuf mayo, followed by a list of classiques such as steak frites, croque Monsieur, and steak tartar. What was most interesting on the meat heavy menu was an offering a vegan plate.
It was a chilly, damp night and a soup of butternut squash and corn kernels with crunchy croutons sprinkled on top had a thick, smooth texture warmed our insides well.
Vincent had a steamed cod fish with broccoli and pine nuts, simply prepared but with much flavor and I had crispy poitrine de porc (pork belly) with mashed potatoes with chunks of potatoes (not the usual smooth puree) and a corn and red pepper relish.
We were getting quite full from the more than ample portions, so Vincent and I shared a Paris Brest, another classic, well executed with a light choux and coffee cream filling and a sprinkling of roasted hazelnuts to give a little more oomph.
The thing I liked about Brasserie Bellanger was its lack of pretentiousness which permeates so much of the Paris restaurant scene with hipsters and trendiness.Instead Brasserie Bellanger is just a fun, lively place with solid, unsurprising (that’s a good thing!) food at honest prices (all dishes are under 20€ except for the home cooked dish of the day), and easy service, where people gather to have a good time without too much fuss.
You have to love a place that lets a pooch like this take center stage
In my latest A Bite of Paris video, I've taken a break from food tasting to visit my friend Jessica at La Vaissellerie, my favorite tabletop, dish ware, and kitchen shop, located in the Marais.
Please remember to hit the LIKE button if you like it and SUBSCRIBE button to subscribe to my channel.
Come experience Eye Prefer Paris live with Eye Prefer Paris Tours, which are 3-hour walking tours I personally lead. Eye Prefer Paris Tours include many of the places I have written about such as small museums & galleries, restaurants, cafes, food markets, secret addresses, fashion & home boutiques, parks and gardens and much more. In addition to my specialty Marais Tour, I also lead tours of Montmartre, St. Germain, Latin Quarter, in addition to Shopping Tours, Gay Tours, Girlfriend Tours, Food Tours, Flea Market Tours, Paris Highlights Tours, and Chocolate & Pastry tours.
In November of 2017, I wrote about Maison Aleph, a newly opened pastry shop which combines mid-east and French pastries in a new form.Maison Aleph has been quite successful since then and had a pop-up shop last summer in the esteemed Le Grande Epicerie at Le Bon Marché.
I passed by Maison Aleph a few weeks ago and noticed they introduced a number of new products since I was last there. One thing that stood out was a bento box with home-cooked, middle eastern cuisine, a welcome addition to the otherwise all sweets menu. I bought one to go, curious to see how the savory treats measured up to their pastries.
The main course was chicken with a highly spiced Aleppo red pepper paste, cumin and dried mint. Alongside was a richly textured and flavorful mix of pumpkin, sweet potatoes, lentils, in a sesame and hazelnut sauce. A portion of pickled cauliflower, beets, and carrots were a blast from the past with their tangy, sour vinegar taste, a reminder of jars of them lining our family refrigerator when I was growing up. Another fond and funny memory came up while eating the pickled vegetables; I drove with my sister one day when I was about ten-years old to pick-up some pickled, green-peppers from a woman who pickled her own vegetables. When I got back in the car, we were so anxious to try them, we opened the jar on the front seat and dug in. While my sister was driving, after each traffic light, we would dig in again and quickly close it in time for the green light. About 10 traffic lights later and a sour feeling in our stomachs, we realized we ate the entire jar.
Moutabal is much like baba ghanoush except it uses tahini, whereas baba ghanoush doesn’t. It has a smoother, creamier texture, and the Maison Aleph version topped with pomegranate seeds was sensational. I couldn’t get enough of the zaatar-flavored pita chips to scoop up the moutabal and wished I had a second portion of therm.
Last but not least was one of Maison Aleph’s pastries, a square of baklava with layers of chocolate, crispy and gooey all at once.
Another new item I had to try from Maison Aleph was their ice cream. The pistachio with caramelized Iranian pistachios spoke to me loud and clear. I loved the creamy, almost yogurt like texture, and the pure essence of the pistachios without out a lot of sugar to disrupt it.
The bento box comes in three combinations: meat, vegetarian, and seafood.
In my latest A Bite of Paris video, I've taken a break from food tasting to visit my friend Jessica at La Vaissellerie, my favorite tabletop, dish ware, and kitchen shop, located in the Marais.
Please remember to hit the LIKE button if you like it and SUBSCRIBE button to subscribe to my channel.
Come experience Eye Prefer Paris live with Eye Prefer Paris Tours, which are 3-hour walking tours I personally lead. Eye Prefer Paris Tours include many of the places I have written about such as small museums & galleries, restaurants, cafes, food markets, secret addresses, fashion & home boutiques, parks and gardens and much more. In addition to my specialty Marais Tour, I also lead tours of Montmartre, St. Germain, Latin Quarter, in addition to Shopping Tours, Gay Tours, Girlfriend Tours, Food Tours, Flea Market Tours, Paris Highlights Tours, and Chocolate & Pastry tours.
Last week I was invited to have lunch at Grand Cafe Fauchon and later take a tour of the connecting Fauchon Hotel.
I have fond memories of the original Fauchon shop from the early 1980s. They had a pastry and coffee counter made of industrial steel and one would stand and have to balance their coffee cup and dessert on a sliver of a shelf without them toppling on the floor. During these trips to Paris from New York in that period, Vincent and I had a standing date to go to Fauchon at 4PM everyday, no matter where in Paris we were. We would sometimes be on the other side of the city and take two or three metros to get there to meet our goal of having pastry at Fauchon.
Much has changed at Fauchon since then, now becoming a luxury gourmet shop with mostly pre-packaged French foods and delicacies with many locations around the world besides the flagship store on Place Madeleine.
Last year Fauchon launched their first foray into the luxury hospitality market with the opening of their first hotel on Place Madeleine across the square from the store.
I took Vincent to lunch with me, for just a bit of nostalgia. We were seated on the outdoor terrace facing the Madeleine Church and the upscale boulevard Malesherbes. Fauchon signature colors are hot pink, black, and white. The terrace was covered with a hot pink awning and since it was a clear, sunny day there was an intense pink hue cast on the tables and on the food when it was served.
The progressive menu was divided into 4 sections, Vegetables, The Sea, The Land, and Sweets, giving diners some leeway in case they have dietary restrictions, which was once unheard of in France.
Our appetizer was a chilled tomato soup topped with chunks of summer produce and a touch of honey gave it a sweet unexpected highlight. For a plat, an unusual salad of morsels of foie gras mixed with frisee lettuce, and fresh figs worked well, a nice mélange of hearty and sweet plus healthy, fresh greens, to remove the guilt of having foie gras straight up. A few minutes later a more than tempting tray was set at our table, beckoning for us to choose a heavenly dessert. It was a hard choice, but a tart with super-size me raspberries on top and a thin layer of sable underneath won out. Vincent had a most intriguing dessert, a green object the shape of a perhaps a flying saucer or space ship, served on a plate with rows of ceramic rims. Inside was a light gateau intensely flavored with green apple. I took a bite and knew I’d have to come back for my own at another visit.
After lunch we were given a tour of the contemporarilydecorated tea salon, which also doubles as a private dining. The other lobby lounge retreats have sumptuous velvet couches, club chairs, and ottomans in the same signature colors.
We were brought up to the fourth floor to look at a deluxe room. The king size bed with white Porthault linens took up most of the room but the centerpiece was a special cabinet named the Gourmet Bar. Designed by Sacha Lakic and manufactured by Roche-Bobois, the sleek, copper color outside resembles an Art Deco armoire. Once the doors opened, that’s when it became a foodies dream mini-bar. The shelves were stocked with the best selling food products from the shop handpicked by the food and beverage manager, including biscuits, foie gras, Madeleines, salted butter caramels, butter cookies, fruit paste candies, and chocolate truffles and on a side table there was a selection of Fauchon teas, and macarons. The best part is that they are all free of charge. It was a good thing I wasn’t staying in the hotel, or they would have lost money on me, as I would have stocked up as much as possible.
The room had a lovely view of the tree lined Blvd. Malesherbes and its grand Haussmmanian buildings.
Fauchon L’Hotel Paris and Grand Cafe Fauchon
11 Place de la Madeleine, 75008/ 4 Boulevard Malesherbes, 75008
Yummy Treats from the Gourmet Bar More Yummy Treats from the Gourmet Bar
If you love salted butter caramels, please watch my newest A Bite of Parisvideo about Henri Le Roux, the man who actually invented the salted butter caramel.
Please remember to hit the LIKE button if you like it and SUBSCRIBE button to subscribe to my channel.
Come experience Eye Prefer Paris live with Eye Prefer Paris Tours, which are 3-hour walking tours I personally lead. Eye Prefer Paris Tours include many of the places I have written about such as small museums & galleries, restaurants, cafes, food markets, secret addresses, fashion & home boutiques, parks and gardens and much more. In addition to my specialty Marais Tour, I also lead tours of Montmartre, St. Germain, Latin Quarter, in addition to Shopping Tours, Gay Tours, Girlfriend Tours, Food Tours, Flea Market Tours, Paris Highlights Tours, and Chocolate & Pastry tours.
When I went to visit my friends Laurie and Blair in the summer of 2015 in the Emilia-Romagna region of Italy, we visited Vignola, a medieval town with a 15th century fortress. It was a hot day and after climbing up the stairs to the fortress, we were ready for a cold drink. We stopped in a nearby pasticerria and decided an ice coffee, cold caffeine, would hit the spot. The Italian version of ice coffee in Italy is a shakerato,is more like a frappe than just coffee with ice in it. We watched the bartender with fascination as he poured coffee into a metal glass lined with ice cubes. He then proceeded to put another metal glass on top, and vigorously shook it about a minute or two. Afterwards, he poured it into a martini glass, the most elegant iced coffee I’ve ever seen. It was a memorable and refreshing treat.
Eataly, the hugely successful Italian grocery and gourmet store, just opened a location in Paris off the rue des Archives in the Marais near Hotel de Ville. It’s similar to the one in New York, with a grocery section, café, restaurant and other food stalls but on a smaller scale. There’s a Lavazza coffee bar on one side, which I frequent, since I like Italian coffee better than French coffee. Last week while I was at Eataly having my usual espresso, a bargain at 1€ if you have it at the counter, I noticed shakerato on the menu. I was so excited about my new find, I made a shakerato date with Vincent my partner.
A few days later we walked over to Eatlaly for our afternoon indulgence and even though it was pleasant outside, we decided to luxuriate in the air conditioning inside. We ordered our shakeratos and watched while the bartender smiled as he furiously shook the two metal glasses.
He poured them into the elegant martini glasses and I took a photo. We clinked our glasses and in unison said “Santé”, while we cooled off with the strong, effecting coffee.
Shakerato will now be my summer go-to drink, so if you want to find me, just go to the coffee bar at Eataly.
Click hereto read my story about my first shakerato in Italy.
If you love salted butter caramels, please watch my newest A Bite of Parisvideo about Henri Le Roux, the man who actually invented the salted butter caramel.
Please remember to hit the LIKE button if you like it and SUBSCRIBE button to subscribe to my channel.
Come experience Eye Prefer Paris live with Eye Prefer Paris Tours, which are 3-hour walking tours I personally lead. Eye Prefer Paris Tours include many of the places I have written about such as small museums & galleries, restaurants, cafes, food markets, secret addresses, fashion & home boutiques, parks and gardens and much more. In addition to my specialty Marais Tour, I also lead tours of Montmartre, St. Germain, Latin Quarter, in addition to Shopping Tours, Gay Tours, Girlfriend Tours, Food Tours, Flea Market Tours, Paris Highlights Tours, and Chocolate & Pastry tours.
I don’t know if you knew this or not but I am of Syrian descent. My grandparents were born in Aleppo, Syria in the late 1800s and came the U.S. in the early 1900s. They settled in the Bensonhurst section of Brooklyn, along with other Syrians from Aleppo, forming a community of Syrian Sephardic Jews. The community thrived financially, culturally and population wise from the 1950s until current time. Even today they believe in having large families and it’s common for couples to have four and five children. In fact the community is now over 100,000 people and most of them still live in Flatbush, Brooklyn in the Kings Highway and Midwood areas.
In the Jewish religion, Friday night is the feast night because of the Saturday Sabbath, much like Sunday lunch in the Catholic religion. My mother was an okay cook during the week but every Friday night she would pull out all the stops and dazzle us with her Syrian specialties.
The recipes were handed down from many generations of other Syrian women and from both sides of the family. The dishes were of course made by hand requiring many hours to prepare, and best of all made with love and pride. I have a large extended family on both sides and every female cousin or aunt has a dish they claim they make the best. For my mother it was hands down her mihshi. Mihshi is usually made of hollowed out squash and zucchini shells stuffed with meat, rice, tomato sauce, then slow baked. My mother made a different version, and perhaps this was the reason hers was the best. Instead of squash and zucchini shells, she would use dried eggplant shells, which she bought in the specialty store, since they didn’t exist in the supermarket, and then she would add dried apricots and prunes and a dab of prune butter. She would then stew them in a pot for hours so they were as tender as can be. The sweet and sour taste was sensational and I could easily eat the whole pot if the rest of the family wasn’t around.
It’s almost impossible to find Syrian food the way my mother made it at a restaurant and the only place I knew of when I lived in NYC that sold this type of Syrian food was a stretch along Kings Highway in Brooklyn, where there are a score of Syrian gourmet and grocery shops.
Once I moved to Paris I was yearning my mother’s mihshi, and every time I went to New York, she would make it. Unfortunately my mother passed away in 2012, and with her went her legendary mihshi. I was foolish not to learn her recipe when she was alive.
Skipping forward to two weeks ago in Paris, I was walking from a friend’s apartment in the 5th arr. to the metro and stumbled upon a newly opened restaurant, Ayadi Gourmet. Upon closer inspection the awning sign said fait maison/Specialité Syrienne/ homemade Syrian specialties. Bingo! I went inside curious to look at the food and menu. A counter with a glass partition had an array of ornate brass chafing dishes, each with a special dish.
The intriguing and appetizing menu listed the restaurant as the World’s First Specialty Concept in the Art of Fatteh, a traditional Syrian dish with layers of pita bread chips, tahini yogurt sauce and toasted nuts, a major YUM already, even before I tried it. I ordered Fatteh Jaj with chicken, rice, tahini sauce, and pine nuts and it was fantastic, such a new and uncharted taste sensation, yet my taste buds sent a message to my brain saying they remembered many of the spices.
I spoke with the owner Ghena, who was warm and welcoming, at length. She told me the restaurant was a concept she had toiled for close to four years and she finally opened her pride and joy just a few days before. All the furnishings and much of the kitchenware and serving pieces were custom made to her specifications in Syria. It certainly showed as Ayadi Gourmet was one of the most attractive takeout restaurants I’ve seen, decorated with lacquered white, elaborately carved chairs, white marble floors, wood beam ceiling, and a wall sculpture of gold branches. I shared with Ghena about my mother’s mihshi and she beamed and said that was her signature dish too and told me it’s not on the permanent menu but she prepares every few weeks as a plat du jour. “You must come and try my mihshi. I will text you next time I make and you will come and try it as my guest.” DEAL, I emphatically replied!
The following week during heat wave 2, Ghena texted me she was serving mihshi the next day. I ended up coming two days later with Vincent, but there was still leftover mihshi, thank goodness. Ghena filled a white bowl with three minchi, swimming in a tomato and herb broth. The scent was overwhelming and I could barely wait to try it. It was very much like my mothers, although I did miss the prunes and apricots, but the best thing was that it had the same soft, melt in your mouth, texture my mother’s had and the unique blend of spices. Again, like my mother’s, I could have eaten the whole pot, but had to settle for the plate I was served.
Happy, happy, and happier after having my minshi, I needed something sweet to overcome the strong spices. My grandmother used to make maamol, which was a pastry shell with powdered sugar on top stuffed with chopped pistachio nuts. The version at Ayadi was quite different. It was served warm and topped with a light, sweetened cheese. Light but satisfying, the maamol was a perfect pastry to end the meal with.
Hopefully Ghena will text me again soon with a mihshi alert and I will gladly go to Ayadi Gourmet again for a bit of nostalgia.
17 Rue Frédéric Sauton, 75005
Metro: Maubert-Mutualite
Open Tuesday to Sunday 12PM-10:30PM, except Sunday until 3PM
If you love salted butter caramels, please watch my newest A Bite of Parisvideo about Henri Le Roux, the man who actually invented the salted butter caramel.
Please remember to hit the LIKE button if you like it and SUBSCRIBE button to subscribe to my channel.
Come experience Eye Prefer Paris live with Eye Prefer Paris Tours, which are 3-hour walking tours I personally lead. Eye Prefer Paris Tours include many of the places I have written about such as small museums & galleries, restaurants, cafes, food markets, secret addresses, fashion & home boutiques, parks and gardens and much more. In addition to my specialty Marais Tour, I also lead tours of Montmartre, St. Germain, Latin Quarter, in addition to Shopping Tours, Gay Tours, Girlfriend Tours, Food Tours, Flea Market Tours, Paris Highlights Tours, and Chocolate & Pastry tours.
Paris is having a heat wave this week with temperatures in the high 90s Fahrenheit and I thought it would be a good idea to run this blog I wrote about in 2017 listing air-conditioned restaurants. I’ve added a few new manes to the list. Stay cool!
Parisians are not fans of air conditioning no matter how hot it gets and in fact they don’t really believe in fans either. Even in the excessive heat, they still wear scarves. I saw a man the other day wearing shorts, T-shirt and a scarf tied around his neck like it was winter.
Needless to say there’s hardly an air conditioning in Parisian restaurants. Café after café has customers sweating away while ordering ice cold drinks.
I am still a die-hard American in certain respects even after living here almost 12 years, and I have to have AC when it gets this hot. One of my first apartment purchases was a portable air-conditioner.
So last night when I was desperately seeking an air-conditioned restaurant I thought I would do some further research and create a list, so here goes. Now it’s pretty obvious the five-star hotel restaurants and many of the Michelin star restaurants will have A/C, so I will leave most of those off the list below.
Maitre Albert 1 Rue Maître Albert, 75005 Bofinger 5-7 Rue de la Bastille, 75004 Maison Blanche 15 Avenue Montaigne, 75008 Les Cocottes Arc de Triomphe 2 Avenue Bertie Albrecht, 75008 Le 24 24 Rue Jean Mermoz, 75008 Sorza 51 Rue Saint-Louis en l'Île, 75004- Ile St. Louis L’Atelier de Joel Robuchon Hôtel du Pont Royal, 5 Rue Montalembert, 75007 Les Bouquinistes 53 Quai des Grands Augustins, 75006 Ma Cocotte 106 Rue des Rosiers, 93400 Saint-Ouen at the flea market Le Petit Pontoise 9 Rue de Pontoise, 75005 Le Coq Rico 98 Rue Lepic, 75018 Elmer 30 Rue Notre Dame de Nazareth, 75003 Blue Elephant 43 rue de la Roquette, 75011 Bon 25 rue de la Pompe, 75016 La Coupole 102 Blvd. de Montparnasse, 75014 Glou 101 rue Vieille du Temple, 75003 La Rotisserie 19 Quai de la Tournelle, 75005 Les Editeurs 4 Carrefour de l”odeon, 75006 Brasserie Lipp 151 Blvd. Saint Germain, 75006 Mariage Freres 30 rue du Bourg Tibourg, 75004
Vins des Pyrenees 25 Rue Beautreillis, 75004https://www.vinsdespyrenees.com/
Thanks everyone for your comments for the book giveaway last week.
August in Paris- My Marais Apartment for Rent August 16 to August 29
I am renting my Marais loft from August 16 to August 29 (Dates are flexible). Contrary to popular myth that Paris is closed in August, most shops, restaurants, and attractions are open in Paris, especially in the Marais. The weather is usually beautiful, temperatures in the high 70s to low 80s Fahrenheit during the day, dropping into the mid 60s at night. In case in gets warmer, I have an air conditioner in the bedroom and a large fan in the living area.
Minimum rental period is 7 days/one week, price 1500€ for 7 days/one week, 2900€ for 14 days/2 weeks.
Conveniently located by the Saint Paul metro, in the heart of the Marais, the apartment is a spacious one-bedroom 750 sq. ft. loftwith 12 ft. ceilings, decorated in chic Mid-Century Modern furniture and sleeps two people in a Queen size bed. Amenities include washer/dryer, 16" flat screen TV, dishwasher, internet connection/Wifi and free long distance calls to the U.S. The apartment is located on the second floor with a large elevator
If you love salted butter caramels, please watch my newest A Bite of Parisvideo about Henri Le Roux, the man who actually invented the salted butter caramel.
Keeping up with new and already established restaurants in Paris could easily be a full-time job. Unfortunately, that job has not yet been bestowed upon me but I try to stay current on the Paris dining scene.
New restaurants frequently appear on my radar and usually either of two things happen. Either I go within a week or two of learning about one or it goes off my radar and quickly backlogged into the someday, some other time list.
Les Fables de La Fontaine falls into the latter category. Last month a publicist sent a lunch invitation and I suddenly remembered wanting to go there for the longest time.
I thought is was just going to be lunch for just Vincent and me, but it turns out the publicist reserved a table for eight to experience a tasting menu from the chef. The group included mostly French food writers and critics, except for Margaret Kemp, who is a well-known, British food writer living in Paris. We had met briefly once before, but during our almost two-hour lunch, we got to know each other much better and bonded over our love of good food. A well-dressed, elderly gentleman arrived late and Margaret told us it was Nicholas de Rebaudy, one of the foremost food critics and food writers in France.
Located on a half-square on the chic rue Saint Dominique in the seventh arrondissement, Les Fables de La Fontaine, has a contemporary décor with a soft palette of neutral colors of taupe and gray. Tables were appointed with bamboo like placemats and fine white china and crystal stemware.
ChefDavid Bouttreau focuses his attention on seafood, daily delving into the top fish stalls of the Rungis wholesale market, searching for just the right mackerel, turbot, lobster, or sole.
Our table was treated to Le Grand Bleu tasting menu. Five delectable appetizers were served in artfully crafted earthenware, which deserved to be admired before digging in. The beet salad with horseradish mousse, smoked eel, and ginger, looked like a vivid red origami on the outside with its precision cut slices, with the tasty, salty eel inside. A yellowtail tartare with radish and quinoa was light and smooth but the Sichuan peppercorns gave it an extra zing.
Next up two waiters showed off two whole fish, a daurade and sea bass, on platters and then went back to the kitchen to filet them. I chose the sea bass served with roasted vegetables. Sometimes the simplest prepared foods are best, relying only on their freshness to bring out thier truest flavors. This was the case of the sea bass, served only with lemon, olive oil, and salt. Miraval rosé was the ideal wine to complement the meal.
Just knowing a soufflé is coming to the table is reason enough to swoon a little bit, and a rice pudding soufflé with salted butter caramel made me swoon full tilt.
The Grand Bleu Menu is 110€ per person with a minimum of two people. A three-course menu is 52€ and at lunch, you can enjoy a starter/plat or plat/dessert for only 28€.
August in Paris- My Marais Apartment for Rent August 16 to August 29
I am renting my Marais loft from August 16 to August 29 (Dates are flexible). Contrary to popular myth that Paris is closed in August, most shops, restaurants, and attractions are open in Paris, especially in the Marais. The weather is usually beautiful, temperatures in the high 70s to low 80s Fahrenheit during the day, dropping into the mid 60s at night. In case in gets warmer, I have an air conditioner in the bedroom and a large fan in the living area.
Minimum rental period is 7 days/one week, price 1500€ for 7 days/one week, 2900€ for 14 days/2 weeks.
Conveniently located by the Saint Paul metro, in the heart of the Marais, the apartment is a spacious one-bedroom 750 sq. ft. loftwith 12 ft. ceilings, decorated in chic Mid-Century Modern furniture and sleeps two people in a Queen size bed. Amenities include washer/dryer, 16" flat screen TV, dishwasher, internet connection/Wifi and free long distance calls to the U.S. The apartment is located on the second floor with a large elevator
If you love salted butter caramels, please watch my newest A Bite of Parisvideo about Henri Le Roux, the man who actually invented the salted butter caramel.
There seems to be a pattern expats have when they move to Paris and I suspect it’s the same for expats around the world. They tend to go at least once a year to their former U.S. hometowns, usually for the holidays or in summer but after about 5 years, the visits dissipate and expats go every other year or even wait five years.
I used to go back to NYC at least twice a year but now just once a year since 2007.
Each time I return to the U.S. I have to remember certain social practices are different than here.
One of the adjustments I have to make. is tipping in restaurants. In Paris, it’s fairly easy, the tip or what they call service charge is included in the check and depending on whether I have some change in my pocket, I leave a one or two euro coins on the table as a courtesy. If I don’t have any change and don’t leave anything, it’s perfectly fine, the waitperson usually says merci or bon journee, and doesn’t scowl or call me a cheapskate under his/her breath.
One other thing I have to remember in restaurants in the U.S. is that the sales tax is not included, where as in France the VAT is included in the final bill. So if I get a check for 20€, I plop down a 20€ bill, a coin or two, and I am done.
In NYC sales tax in restaurants in restaurants is just about 9%, so with a 20% tip, which is the norm now, it’s almost a whopping extra 30% of the bill. I was in a restaurant where the main course of pasta that I ordered was $15, which I thought wasn’t too bad, but then realized with tax and tip it was now going to be $19.50, ouch!
The other thing is not that long ago, a 15% tip was the norm, and 20% was if you had great service. Not anymore. In fact on the bottom of the check or on the credit card machines, the suggested gratuity box is either 18 or 20%, so if you want to leave 15%, you have to calculate it yourself.
I also noticed that no matter what food service place I went to whether is was a regular restaurant, take out place, food delivery, or coffee bar, when you ask for your bill, a tip option automatically comes up on the screen, asking for 18or 20%. I’ve always had a thing about not tipping in takeout places. Correct me if I am wrong, but takeout staff people are paid a higher wage than waiters because waiters are primarily dependent on tips. For example, I was at a casual vegetarian restaurant in Brooklyn having lunch. I ordered at the counter, sat down at an available table, and when my name was called, I picked up my food and brought it to my table. After I was done I bussed by own tray, emptied my excess food in the trash, and put my plate and silverware in the proper receptacles. When I was paying with my debit card, again the 18 & 20% tip boxes flashed on the screen. Besides someone putting my order in by pressing three or four buttons on the computer screen, there was no other service. Why should I leave a tip? I am happy to leave a tip if someone waited on me, but this wasn’t the case. This, I declare is tip shaming. An extreme case of tip shaming was when I was at the theater. I was with a relative and she asked for a bottle of water at the snack bar, which by the way was a shocking $5 for the lowest brand of bottled water, and she charged it and added $1 tip. A tip for someone who handed you a bottle?
I have no problem tipping for certain services when it is expected. I tip taxi drivers, wait staff, doormen, etc. but I don’t believe I have to tip order takers, that’s not a service.
In recent years there has been a move in some U.S. restaurants to discontinue tipping by figuring it into the cost of the food. For instance, New York restauranteur Danny Meyer, who owns upscale restaurants such as Union Square Grill, Gramercy Tavern, and Eleven Madison Park, eliminated tipping in his restaurants in 2015. I think this is an excellent idea.
What’s your take on the tipping situation? Would love to have your feedback.
August in Paris- My Marais Apartment for Rent August 16 to August 29
I am renting my Marais loft from August 16 to August 29 (Dates are flexible). Contrary to popular myth that Paris is closed in August, most shops, restaurants, and attractions are open in Paris, especially in the Marais. The weather is usually beautiful, temperatures in the high 70s to low 80s Fahrenheit during the day, dropping into the mid 60s at night. In case in gets warmer, I have an air conditioner in the bedroom and a large fan in the living area.
Minimum rental period is 7 days/one week, price 1500€ for 7 days/one week, 2900€ for 14 days/2 weeks.
Conveniently located by the Saint Paul metro, in the heart of the Marais, the apartment is a spacious one-bedroom 750 sq. ft. loftwith 12 ft. ceilings, decorated in chic Mid-Century Modern furniture and sleeps two people in a Queen size bed. Amenities include washer/dryer, 16" flat screen TV, dishwasher, internet connection/Wifi and free long distance calls to the U.S. The apartment is located on the second floor with a large elevator
If you love salted butter caramels, please watch my newest A Bite of Parisvideo about Henri Le Roux, the man who actually invented the salted butter caramel.
Once the most celebrated avenue in Paris, the reputation of the Champs Elysees has been greatly tarnished in recent months by the violence and destruction the Gilet Jaunes have inflicted on it. Also, once the marker of retail luxury, the Champs Elysees in the past few years has given way to cheap food and retail chains such as Five Guys and H & M.
The tides are turning on the Champs Elysees by the opening of a new Galeries Lafayette. Housed in the former Virgin Megastore, the four-story, 700,000 square foot space is a breath of fresh air in the faltering times of big store retail. The building was constructed in the 1930s and some of the original Art Deco details have been restored thanks to Danish architect Bjarke Ingels, who respected the architecture and at the same time updated the design for the 21st century with innovation and style.
Interestingly enough, Théophile Bader, the founder of Galeries Lafayette, bought a hotel on the Champs Elysees in 1927 to open a branch of the store, but the crash of 1929 dashed his hopes. Today the new generation of the Galeries Lafayette family is fulfilling Bader’s dream.
I visited the store last week and was very impressed, considering I find most types of luxury stores like this much the same, featuring the same merchandise and brands. Yes, they sell the top luxury brands such as Chanel, Balenciaga, Saint Laurent, and Gucci, but they also sell some cool, more under the radar labels such as Haider Ackermann, Sacai, JW Andersen, By Far, Thom Browne,Elie Top and an exclusive collection for the store by Rei Kawakubo for Commes des Garcons.
Going through a tunnel-like entrance on the main floor, facing left is a grand marble staircase and brass banisters, something you would find in a 1930s movie musical with dancers parading down the steps. There’s also a replica of the bottom half of the Eiffel Tower climbing up to the second floor atrium. The sleek cosmetics and beauty department is a glossy affair with mirrored walls and counters, rows of quirky color nail polishes and festive, white paper streamers hanging from the ceiling.
The second floor is a designer’s showcase, where the big bang brands are sparsely displayed on racks so that each piece stands out on its own. On the cutting edge of technology, the digital hangers have a touch screen that tells you the sizes the garment is available in and also directions to the nearest fitting room. Don’t want to wait on the queue to pay for your purchases? No worries, the 300 store stylists will ring you up straight away, in addition to assisting you with finding the best personal look for you. The men’s fashion department is equal in size with the women’s, which is rare, and also has cutting edge labels.
I frequently go to the movies on the Champs Elysees because the theaters are some of the best in Paris, but it’s always difficult to find well-priced, casual restaurants because there are either fast food joints or overpriced tourist traps. The Galeries Lafayette Champs Elysees has an excellent food court with a good selection of appealing food counters and communal tables to sit at. I had a swell, spicy Asian chicken salad at Little Zhao for lunch for 7€ and other offerings in the food court include paté at Maison Verot,vegan fare at Maisie Café, and seafood from Kaspia Deli.On the dessert side, there are branches of Pierre Marcolini and Alain Ducasse chocolate, plus the only outside branch of Stohrer, the oldest patisserie in Paris. Good news is the food court is open till 10PM every night and the store until 12AM.
Cult fashion designer Jacquemus, has partnered with Kaspia restaurant, to open a Citron, a Provence inspired restaurant that is the new chic boite to be seen at.
I am now offering the selection of photos from the exhibition for sale by mail order. Since they are prints and not framed like they were at the exhibition, the cost is considerably less.
Photos come in three sizes
10 X 12 inches Price $60
12 X 15 inches Price $95
16 X 20 inches Price $125
Shipping in the U. S. by U.S. Mail is $12 per order
A 15% discount applies for orders of three or more photos
If you would like to order photos, please email me @ r.nahem@gmail.com and I will process shipping and payment.
Come experience Eye Prefer Paris live with Eye Prefer Paris Tours, which are 3-hour walking tours I personally lead. Eye Prefer Paris Tours include many of the places I have written about such as small museums & galleries, restaurants, cafes, food markets, secret addresses, fashion & home boutiques, parks and gardens and much more. In addition to my specialty Marais Tour, I also lead tours of Montmartre, St. Germain, Latin Quarter, in addition to Shopping Tours, Gay Tours, Girlfriend Tours, Food Tours, Flea Market Tours, Paris Highlights Tours, and Chocolate & Pastry tours.
One of the few complaints I have about the part of the Marais I live in is the lack of really good and original restaurants. Yes, there are scores of cafes and restaurants that serve good French food but almost none are exceptional. Until now.
Les Foodies is a welcome relief of fine dining on the rue des Archives, where a long stretch of lively cafes cater to people who mostly want to drink and end up ordering food by convenience.
The chic, well appointed bar and dining room sets the tone for a serious meal to come. A backlit wall with uneven rectangular panels with occasional splashes of color channel Mondrian while enhancing the shiny lacquered tables tops trimmed in gold.
The menu was a mélange of dishes and ingredients from all over the culinary map. Chef Davide Galloni is of Italian and Thai descent and sources the food of his dual nationalities in the kitchen, then adds things like hummus to the menu.
An oversized white plate resembling a crater was filled with a fricassee of artichoke hearts, a poached egg, polenta and Brussels sprouts. Rich and layered, the dish excelled.
Fish tartares are very much in vogue in Parisian restaurants these days, and a tartare of lagoustines, sea scallops, served with a frothy lime Zabaglione and pistachios brought out the best in this trend with superior quality fish.
If that sounded satisfying enough, two more courses followed. We had to pace ourselves a bit. A house made ravioli more on the traditional Italian side stuffed with black truffle, was exquisite simplicity in its execution and taste. Another form of ravioli with monkfish and squid ink in a Langoustine bisque was also excellent but a little too rich to finish.
We weren’t going to order dessert but when we saw something resembling a terracotta flowerpot served to another table, we were all over it. On closer viewing, it was a real flowerpot and it was stuffed with a light, whipped mascarpone, and red currants.
Portions at Les Foodies are more than ample and surprising for this caliber of restaurant. I’ve been to so many restaurants that have had exceptional dishes, only to have them be a tease of taste, rather than enough to be truly satisfying.
Another plus was the laid back and friendly service.
Although the dinner menu runs about 50-60€ per person, the good news is that Les Foodies offers a 21€ entrée/plat or plat/dessert at lunch.
Come experience Eye Prefer Paris live with Eye Prefer Paris Tours, which are 3-hour walking tours I personally lead. Eye Prefer Paris Tours include many of the places I have written about such as small museums & galleries, restaurants, cafes, food markets, secret addresses, fashion & home boutiques, parks and gardens and much more. In addition to my specialty Marais Tour, I also lead tours of Montmartre, St. Germain, Latin Quarter, in addition to Shopping Tours, Gay Tours, Girlfriend Tours, Food Tours, Flea Market Tours, Paris Highlights Tours, and Chocolate & Pastry tours.
Tours start at 225 euros for up to 3 people, and 75 euros for each additional person. I look forward to meeting you on my tours and it will be my pleasure and delight to show you, my insiders, Paris.
Come experience Eye Prefer Paris live with Eye Prefer Paris Tours, which are 3-hour walking tours I personally lead. Eye Prefer Paris Tours include many of the places I have written about such as small museums & galleries, restaurants, cafes, food markets, secret addresses, fashion & home boutiques, parks and gardens and much more. In addition to my specialty Marais Tour, I also lead tours of Montmartre, St. Germain, Latin Quarter, in addition to Shopping Tours, Gay Tours, Girlfriend Tours, Food Tours, Flea Market Tours, Paris Highlights Tours, and Chocolate & Pastry tours.
