I Prefer Paris

Children’s Drawings of Notre Dame

 I want to thank everyone for watching my live Rue de Martyrs Food tour last week and also for your generous tips to my PayPal account. I'm sorry I couldn't thank all of you individually, but know I really appreciate it. CLICK HERE to watch the video and CLICK HERE if you would like to leave a tip in my PayPal account (you don’t have to have a PayPal account), which I would greatly appreciate, as I do these tours free of charge for France.fr  Enjoy! 

I was in front of Notre Dame last week doing research for a future tour. There’s been a temporary wall installed in front and on the sides of the cathedral while during the reconstruction from the 2019 fire. 

On the parvis in front, is an exhibition of drawings of Notre Dame. Six months after the fire, the archbishop of Paris, Monsignor Michel Aupetit, started a campaign requesting grade school children from France and around the world, aged from four to sixteen years old to “Draw me Notre-Dame: The cathedral you know or the cathedral you imagine. 

There were close to 6000 drawings submitted from all over France and countries such as Poland, the U.S., Germany, and Germany. 

Bellini, le Bellissimo at Jacquemart-André Museum

Today is a guest post by Rosemary Flannery about Giovanni Bellini, influences croisés exhibit at the Jacquemart-André Museum.

The Jacquemart-André Museum is featuring a stunning exhibition on the work of Giovanni Bellini (1435 – 1516), considered one of the greatest Venetian artists of the Renaissance. His paintings and that of his contemporaries - sculptures by Donatello, paintings from his father’s atelier and masterpieces by Mantegna - tell his story and that of his era.

Born an illegitimate child in Venice near San Marco, Bellini trained along with his elder half-brother Gentile in the studio of his natural father Jacopo, a prominent painter, resulting in a hugely successful artistic dynasty. Giovanni will come to be recognized as the founder of the Venetian tradition.

The diverse influences of this prosperous city – from Byzantine icons, created on wood panels with tempera and gold leaf, to the prevalence of the art of Flemish painters, who developed oil painting, and added delicate landscape backgrounds to their work – will infuse Giovanni Bellini’s style throughout his life.

The martyr Saint Justine is rendered by Giovanni Bellini in tempera, offering crisp details and the distinct, local colors of the Quattrocento.

Many of Giovanni’s early work were collaborative, such as this intricate Annunciation scene painted together with Gentile. 

In 1453, Andrea Mantegna, another giant of the early Renaissance, marries Bellini’s half-sister Nicolosia, creating an artistic dialogue between the two painters. A rare and precious drawing of Mantegna’s Mary with Dying Christ is on display, along with his celebrated Ecce Homo.

Bellini pioneered the use of color and light to create mood in landscapes that he observed around Venice, and incorporated into masterpieces such as this scene of The Virgin and Child with Saints.

Private devotional pictures were in great demand; Bellini forms his own studio which includes great talents such as Titian and Giorgione. This monumental work depicts the Virgin and Christ child enthroned, featuring the elongated figures of his later style. A rope slung with drapery prefigures the cross of the Crucifixion.

By the age of 48, Bellini is named official painter of the Republic of Venice, in the great hall of the Doge’s Palace.  His characteristic deep, rich tints and shadings, and sumptuous colors distinguish his last brilliant masterpiece, The Drunkenness of Noah. This narrative work represents an episode from the Old Testament: Noah is drunk after taking wine from one of his vineyards, and has fallen asleep naked. His son Ham discovers him sleeping and laughs at the scene while his brothers take the responsibility of covering him up.

As Venice transitions to the later Renaissance, the hallmark of Bellini’s style becomes the exaltation of sensuality and of atmosphere over shape and form, achieved through oil painting.

Jacquemart-André Museum, 158 boulevard Haussmann, 75008

Through July 17, 2023

https://www.musee-jacquemart-andre.com/en/giovanni-bellini

Rosemary Flannery is an American artist and writer, based in Paris, and is the author of the best-selling book Angels of Paris: an architectural tour through the history of Paris. https://tinyurl.com/3u8k3ft8

Elliott Erwitt: A Retrospective

One of the great and most prolific photographers of the 20^th and 21^st century, Elliott Erwitt, is having a major retrospective in Paris. Erwitt was born in Paris in 1928 to Russian-Jewish immigrants, and in 1939, they fled Italy and moved to U.S. in 1939. He got his start in photography when he became an assistant photographer for the U.S. army while he served in France and Germany before being discharged in 1953. In that same period, Erwitt met the iconic photographers Edward Steichen, Robert Capa, and Roy Stryker, who greatly influenced his style. Mostly a freelance, editorial, and commercial photographer, Erwitt, worked for Life, Look, Holiday, and Colliers Magazine. He also photographed major celebrities and politicians including Marilyn Monroe, Charles de Gaulle, Ernesto “Che” Guevara, Jackie Kennedy, and Alfred Hitchcock.

The retrospective, with 215 color and black and white photographs, is divided into various themes and subjects. One of his favorite subjects was dogs, which he photographed as frequently as he could, and are the highlight of the exhibit. Erwitt brought humor to much of his work but most of all he brought humanity.

Until August 15, 2023

Musée Maillol

59-61 rue de Grenelle, 75007

https://museemaillol.com/en/expositions/elliot-erwitt-2/

Picasso Celebration: The Collection in a New Light

April 8, 2023, will mark the 50th anniversary of Picasso’s death at the ripe old age of 91. The celebrations will be numerous, no doubt, and the Picasso Museum in Paris has done something unique. For the exhibition Picasso Celebration: The Collection in a New Light, they have invited an English man, already surprising, the fashion designer and lifestyle guru Sir Paul Smith to bring his artistic flare to re-contextualize the collection for the 21^st century.

I have always been a big fan of Paul Smith, firstly by frequently buying his colorful, vertical striped shirts and his beautiful scarves over the years, and secondly, appreciating his sharp aesthetic. His fashion/lifestyle boutiques are a harbinger of good taste and clever design, mixed with a touch of humor.

He’s used many of his signature colors and patterns, including stripes, harlequin, and vintage wallpaper, as a background for the paintings. They gave a fresh new visual to the works I’ve seen so many times before.

The museum has also installed a collection of contemporary art pieces by artists Guillermo Kuitca, Obi Okigbo, Mickalene Thomas, and Chéri Samba, who reinterpret Picasso’s in a new context.

Until August 27, 2023

Musée Picasso

5 rue de Thorigny, 75003 

https://www.museepicassoparis.fr/en/picasso-celebration-collection-new-light

Thanks to everyone who made a comment to win a copy of The French Queen’s Curse: In Queen Margot's Gardens by Juliette Lauber and congratulations to the winner, Susan Emanuel. CLICK HERE to order The French Queen’s Curse from Amazon

 

 

 

 

 

1997 Fashion Big Bang

1997 Fashion Big Bang is an exhibit focusing on 1997, a game-changing year in the fashion world in Europe.

In Paris, two British, under-the-radar designers, Alexander McQueen, and John Galliano were chosen to pump new life into ailing fashion houses, Givenchy and Christian Dior, becoming fashion superstars practically overnight with their dramatic and outlandish creations. A breed of young designers such as Martin Margiela, Olivier Theyskens, and Ann Demeulemeester, put Antwerp, Belgium on the map as a new fashion capital, breaking the rules by deconstructing classic fashion staples. It was also the year Tom Ford brought back sexy clothes by reinterpreting the 1970s glamour for the almost bankrupt house of Gucci. Japanese designer Rei Kawakubo sent dresses down the runway with over-exaggerated bustles and peplums in bright colors at Comme des Garcons. Gianni Versace designed his last collection before he was tragically gunned down by a psycho stalker, and finally, 1997 was the year Fendi launched its eponymous and best-selling baguette handbag, which celebrated its 25th-anniversary last year.

Until July 16, 2023

Palais Galliera

10 Avenue Pierre Ier de Serbie, 75116

https://www.palaisgalliera.paris.fr/en/exhibitions/1997-fashion-big-bang

Versace

Martin Margiela

Comme des Garcons

Thierry Mugler

Alexander McQueen for Givenchy

John Galliano for Christian Dior

Ann Demeulemeester designed this suit for Patti Smith

Olivier Theyskens

Jean Paul Gaultier

Comme des Garcons

John Gallano for Dior

Christian Lacroix

Nicolas Ghesquière for Balenciaga

Alexander McQueen for Givenchy

Fendi baguette

 

 

 

 

 

Must See Exhibit : Sur Les Routes de Samarcande

I see many great exhibits in Paris but occasionally, there’s an exhibit that knocks my socks off and which I recommend making a special trip to Paris to see, if necessary.

Sur Les Routes de Samarcande, Merveilles de soie et d’or, is one of them. The gorgeous exhibit, spanning close to 12,000 square feet on two floors, visually traces the artisanal silk and golden treasures of Uzbekistan from the 19^th and 20^th century. There are over 300 pieces in the collection which include robes, tapestries, carpets, jewelry, dresses, head pieces, swords, and horse saddles, and each one is a work of art in itself.  I was dazzled by the colors, mixing of textures and textiles, and the luxuriousness, and I marveled at the handwork that went into them.

Textiles from the Islamic world and Boukhara style embroidery, from 1785 to 1920, using gold threads were the forefront for the tapestries and costumes of the period. The dramatic curation uses dim lighting except when golden light floods on to the pieces, making the colors and texture pop.

Les Routes de Samarcande

Until June 4, 2023

Institut du Monde Arabe

1, rue des Fossés-Saint-Bernard, Place Mohammed-V 75005

https://www.imarabe.org/fr/expositions/sur-les-routes-de-samarcande-merveilles-de-soie-et-d-or

Come experience Eye Prefer Paris live with Eye Prefer Paris Tours, which are walking tours I personally lead. Eye Prefer Paris Tours include many of the places I have written about such as small museums & galleries, restaurants, cafes, food markets, secret addresses, fashion & home boutiques, parks and gardens and much more.  In addition to my specialty Marais Tour, I also lead tours of Montmartre, St. Germain, Latin Quarter, in addition to Shopping Tours, Gay Tours, Food Tours, Flea Market Tours, Paris Highlights Tours, and Chocolate & Pastry tours.

https://eyepreferparistours.com/

Chagall, Paris-New York & Paul Klee at L’Atelier des Lumieres

Every year L’Atelier des Lumieres launches its latest event in mid-February. I have had the pleasure of being invited to the press showing each time since 2018, and the shows have always been a joy to experience.

Chagall, Paris-New York is the main event and the Paul Klee- Painting Music, is the secondary, shorter show.

One of the things I like most about Chagall, Paris-New York was there was more of a narrative, than other L’Atelier des Lumieres shows in the past, paying more attention to Chagall’s journey as an artist. Chagall lived in Paris until 1941 but then moved to New York to escape the Nazi invasion of Paris (Chagall was Jewish), returning to France in 1948 and moving to the Cote d’Azur. The beginning of the show starts with romantic images and paintings of Montmartre in the early 1900s, and mid-way through, there are a number of black and white photos of New York from the period and of Chagall splashed on the walls, while a gorgeous soundtrack of Ella Fitzgerald singing songs from Porgy and Bess plays in the background. Other types of music played include classical music, klezmer, and jazz, all accurately appropriate for Chagall and his work.

Paul Klee- Painting Music, is a celebration of art and music. Paul Klee was an accomplished violinist and singer, in addition to being a great artist. Most of his painting was informed and influenced by music. The music accompanying the show is from Mozart’s The Magic Flute.

Chagall, Paris-New York & Paul Klee at L’Atelier des Lumieres

38 rue Saint Maur, 75011

https://www.atelier-lumieres.com/en/events

Important Note: It’s best to book tickets in advance and the show starts at 5 minutes before the hour, so book your tickets 15-20 minutes before.

The photos below are from Paul Klee- Painting Music

Come experience Eye Prefer Paris live with Eye Prefer Paris Tours, which are walking tours I personally lead. Eye Prefer Paris Tours include many of the places I have written about such as small museums & galleries, restaurants, cafes, food markets, secret addresses, fashion & home boutiques, parks and gardens and much more.  In addition to my specialty Marais Tour, I also lead tours of Montmartre, St. Germain, Latin Quarter, in addition to Shopping Tours, Gay Tours, Food Tours, Flea Market Tours, Paris Highlights Tours, and Chocolate & Pastry tours.

https://eyepreferparistours.com/

Reopening of Bibliothèque Nationale de France – Richelieu

After an astonishing 12-year closure for renovations, the Bibliothèque Nationale de France – Richelieu has finally reopened, and its stunning.

The library was originally constructed in 1771 and designed by François Mansart, and was part of Cardinal Richelieu’s domain, which also included the nearby Palais Royal and the Comédie-Française theatre.

It took over 12,000 hours, 30 painting, stucco and gilding artisans (A few specialists were brought from Florence), and over 160,000,000 € to complete the painstaking and arduous restoration of several buildings from the 16^th century.  

Some of the more impressive rooms of the library and the facilities are the Louis XV room with paintings from the 18^th century by artists Boucher and Van Loo, the Barthelemy room, constructed in the 19^th century , with wall to wall wood paneling displaying collections of medals and coins, and the piece de resistance, the Oval room library, a stunner with soaring 60 foot high ceilings lined with bookshelves, glass portholes and ceiling, and reading desks with green glass lamps. One other notable architectural detail is the dramatic, contemporary, winding staircase on the main floor. On display in the various rooms are art works from Picasso to Rembrandt and historic manuscripts such as “Notre Dame de Paris” by Victor Hugo, and a score by Mozart.

The complex has a permanent art and artifacts collection, shown in a series of rooms on the second floor, temporary exhibits (the next one is Degas in Black and White" from 30 May to 3 September 2023), a casual café, and an outdoor dining area with tables and chairs in the palm tree lined courtyard.

5 Rue Vivienne, 75002

https://www.bnf.fr/en

Come experience Eye Prefer Paris live with Eye Prefer Paris Tours, which are walking tours I personally lead. Eye Prefer Paris Tours include many of the places I have written about such as small museums & galleries, restaurants, cafes, food markets, secret addresses, fashion & home boutiques, parks and gardens and much more.  In addition to my specialty Marais Tour, I also lead tours of Montmartre, St. Germain, Latin Quarter, in addition to Shopping Tours, Gay Tours, Food Tours, Flea Market Tours, Paris Highlights Tours, and Chocolate & Pastry tours.

https://eyepreferparistours.com/

Sangham–Art Installation by Subodh Gupta at Le Bon Marché

Le Bon Marché has an ongoing program that gives artists carte blanche to create special works to exhibit in the store and in their windows. The newest show is Sangham is by Indian artist Subodh Gupta, who collects vintage furniture, kitchen tools, objects, and dishes and turns them into sculptures and art pieces.

 Two striking centerpieces start on the main floor on mirrored pedestals, reaching up the four-story atrium, ending with a collage of gleaming stainless-steel pots.

On the second floor is The Proust Effect, a large circular sculpture, made of old pots, hanging from the ceiling, which you can step inside of.

The ten windows on rue de Sèvres exhibits a series of furniture and objects enclosed in ropes, which channels French culture and Gupta's penchant for using ordinary objects in his work.

Until February 19, 2024

Le Mon Marché

24 Rue de Sèvres, 75007

https://www.lvmh.com/news-documents/news/le-bon-marche-welcomes-sangam-the-confluence-of-art-and-domestic-objects-by-subodh-gupta/

Come experience Eye Prefer Paris live with Eye Prefer Paris Tours, which are walking tours I personally lead. Eye Prefer Paris Tours include many of the places I have written about such as small museums & galleries, restaurants, cafes, food markets, secret addresses, fashion & home boutiques, parks and gardens and much more.  In addition to my specialty Marais Tour, I also lead tours of Montmartre, St. Germain, Latin Quarter, in addition to Shopping Tours, Gay Tours, Food Tours, Flea Market Tours, Paris Highlights Tours, and Chocolate & Pastry tours.

https://eyepreferparistours.com/

Blast From the Past- Années 80/ The 1980s

The new exhibit, Années 80/ The 1980s, at the Musee des Arts Decoratifs, was a terrific blast from the past. It recalls the creative boom period for fashion designers, artists, galleries, furniture and home designers, and graphics and art directors of the 1980s in France. Jean Paul Gaultier, Thierry Mugler, Claude Montana, Azzedine Alaia, and Christian La Croix became superstars with their daring and innovative fashion, Philippe Starck shook up the home design and architecture world, and Jean Paul Goude, with his whimsical and glamorous ad campaigns. Over 700 pieces are displayed including clothing, accessories, posters, ad campaigns, furniture, art, objects, album covers, and photos.

Walking through the exhibit, it brought back memories of outrageous shoulder pads (think Dynasty!), Memphis furniture, a fabulous Thierry Mugler leather jacket I bought at Bergdorf’s, Maud Frizon shoes, Agnes B. snap cardigans, and first discovering the Marais, when it was still a scruffy neighborhood.

Until April 16, 2023

MAD Museum

107 rue de Rivoli, 75001

https://madparis-fr.translate.goog/ExpoAnnees80?_x_tr_sl=fr&_x_tr_tl=en&_x_tr_hl=en&_x_tr_pto=sc

Remember Naf-Naf? 

Azzedine Alaia 

Vivienne Westwood- RIP

Gaultier

Gaultier 

Memphis 

La Croix, sweetie! (Do you get the reference/) 

Come experience Eye Prefer Paris live with Eye Prefer Paris Tours, which are walking tours I personally lead. Eye Prefer Paris Tours include many of the places I have written about such as small museums & galleries, restaurants, cafes, food markets, secret addresses, fashion & home boutiques, parks and gardens and much more.  In addition to my specialty Marais Tour, I also lead tours of Montmartre, St. Germain, Latin Quarter, in addition to Shopping Tours, Gay Tours, Food Tours, Flea Market Tours, Paris Highlights Tours, and Chocolate & Pastry tours.

https://eyepreferparistours.com/

LV Dream

LV Dream is a one-year pop-up exhibition (it opened November 16, 2022) presented by Louis Vuitton. The exhibition celebrates the 160 years of the house with a nine-room display of its history, designs, and its collaborations with artists and designers starting in the 2000s. I have seen numerous and similar Louis Vuitton exhibitions in past years at museums and other venues in Paris. Much of it looked familiar and I moved through it rapidly. At the end I treated myself to a decadent pastry at the café upstairs. 

Maxime Frédéric, the acclaimed and award-winning pastry chef from the five-star Le Cheval Blanc hotel has created a special pastry menu for the café. On a long, white marble counter each gorgeous dessert, a jewel in itself, is individually displayed on a pedestal, covered with a glass dome. It was very difficult to choose just one (I was alone and didn’t have the benefit of sharing another pastry with someone else) and finally settled on chocolate entrement. While I waited for my pastry and coffee, I took in the colorful and beautifully appointed décor with eggplant color leather banquettes dotted with fun patterned and print throw pillows, and almost a jungle of lush trees and plants, making me feel I was a tropical, outdoor terrace, which made up for the gray skies and cold temperature outside. The elegant table setting had ruby red, woven placemats, blue and purple water glasses (so beautiful, I was tempted to buy a set in the gift shop) and Christofle flatware. The pastry, embossed with the LV logo, was served on a Bernardaud, white china plate. To say it was sublime is a gross understatement and I savored every morsel. 

Prices are steep and range between 16 to 20€ for a pastry and coffee starts at 6 euros (my café crème was 9€!) but absolutely worth it for the experience. 

After my pastry, I sauntered over to the chocolate boutique with glass vitrines filled with tempting chocolates, which cleverly had the LV logo stamped and sculpted on them. I bought Vincent a box of four chocolates, each one in a different color and with a different flavor. Vincent generously shared them with me. 

There’s also a gift and product shop attached to the pastry bar.

Tickets are free for the exhibit, but you must reserve online. https://eu.louisvuitton.com/eng-e1/magazine/articles/lv-dream

You can visit the pastry bar independently without seeing the exhibit.

2 rue Pont Neuf, 75001 (just across the street from La Samaritaine)