I Prefer Paris

Quick & Easy Guide About US Taxes for Expats in France

Here's an informative guest post about US taxes for expats in France 

Americans love living in France and several factors influence that decision. A great climate, beautiful countryside, exciting culture, and its rich culture are only a few of the positives. An interesting cuisine, economical cost of living, and affordable healthcare also draw in US expats. Interestingly, students also opt to study in French schools and universities. Even as you’re planning your move, one of the first things to find out in detail is about filing taxes as a US expat in France. 

US Expats Must File Returns with the IRS Back Home

Even though you’re a permanent resident of France and earning an income in the country, you’ll continue to pay taxes back home. As long as you remain a US citizen or hold a Green Card, the IRS expects you to declare income from all international sources in the tax return. That includes any assets you hold in foreign bank accounts. 

You’ll complete and submit the FinCEN Form 114, which is also called the Foreign Bank Account Report. Of course, as a resident of France, you’ll also comply with the tax obligations that your host country has for you.

You’ll Qualify as a Resident of France Based in 3 Criteria

Any individual must fulfill any one of the three main criteria if they wish to qualify as French residents for taxation purposes.

● Your primary residence is on French soil or your family has a permanent home in the country. If you spend more than 183 days out of a calendar year in France or spend more days here than in any other country, you’re considered a French resident.

● If your primary employment, self-employment, or other business, is in France, then you’re a resident. Conducting most of your professional activities out of France is a valid qualifier.

● If all of your economic activity is conducted in France, that makes you a resident.

You Won’t Have to Pay Dual Taxation

If you’re concerned about paying double taxes on the same income in two different countries, rest assured. The IRS has provisions so US expats pay tax only once. This gets complex, but you don’t have to be on US soil to benefit from a knowledgeable tax service. Online options are available. Residents of France will learn that they can take advantage of different kinds of exclusions. For instance:

● Foreign Earned Income Exclusion, where you can exclude up to $107,600 from your total US taxes from all international sources. You’ll pay taxes only on the balance income left over.

● Foreign tax Credit where you can claim credit for the taxes you pay to the French government in your IRS return. 

● Foreign Housing Exclusion where you can exclude any household expenses incurred during your stay in France from the US tax return.

Do keep in mind that even if you think you don’t owe the IRS any taxes, you’ll file returns as usual and declare all earned income. 

Understanding Income Tax Rates Applicable in France

The French government levies progressive tax rates according to your income level. These rates can change year to year, which is why you must consult an expert tax attorney who can guide you. For instance, all income earned in the year 2020 will be taxed in the year 2021 at these rates:

● Income of €9,964 and below - 0%

● Income of €9,964 to €25,405 - 11%

● Income of €25,405 to €72,643 - 30%

● Income of €72,643 to €156,244 - 41%

● Above €156,244 - 45%

 

In addition to understanding tax rates, you’ll also want to keep in mind that the fiscal year in the US and France are similar - from January 1st to December 31st. Remember to check for the applicable due dates and file your tax returns in time. 

 

France is a lovely country to explore. Stay compliant with your tax obligations and enjoy a fantastic life.

 

 

How DNA Helps Find French or European Ancestors

This is a guest post about DNA testing in France and Europe 

People with European and French ancestry have resources that go much farther back than individuals with ancestors who migrated to the Americas before census records were kept. European ancestry and history can be traced back to ancient Greece and ancient Rome.  

According to the British history professor at Roehampton University, John Tosh, at stated in his work ‘The Pursuit of History,’ "From the High Middle Ages (c.1000–1300) onwards, the written word survives in greater abundance than any other source for Western history." 

France and Germany refined historiographic research in the 17^th and 18^th centuries they became like the methods used today by examining the documents and other materials that may provide evidence of their theories relating to their ancestor’s past.

History isn’t Art

In the 20th century, historians withdrew their focus on nationalistic epics that were more positive propaganda for imposing historical figures or a nation’s dominance. Instead, historians stopped treating the documentation of events as art. Instead, they applied the rigor of social science to objectively view the events of the past. French academics began using quantitative history, data, and cultural-historical narratives to change how records were kept. Consequently, the Annales School changed how history was recorded throughout the world, paving the way for amateur genealogists to accurately identify ancestry.

DNA Helps Millions Trace French and European Ancestry 

There might be more records and information about ancestors from France and other European nations, but as an aftershock to the tragic events of World War II, many other European nations have developed guidelines for DNA tests. 

However, France took it a step further and created bioethical laws that forbid DNA testing unless it is for an authorized medical, judicial, or scientific purpose. France is the only nation in Europe where consumer genetic testing is illegal.            

The Rivalry between Great Britain and France

Recently 16.3 million historic birth, marriage, and death records that were hidden away in Parisian archives were uploaded to the internet. 

The new documentation showed that the petty rivalry between France and Great Britain is downright silly considering that both nations share ancestral ties. One in 20 British individuals has French ancestry. 

Famed genealogist, Maurice Coutot, compiled and protected these records in 1924 when he scoured parish churches to complete his Parisian registration records that were destroyed during the French Civil War. 

These precious documents can be at the geneanet.org website and visitors can search by place and surname. While DNA tests might be legally forbidden in France, there haven’t been any fines or cases brought against those who buy, take, or analyze genome data.

How to Choose a Helpful Genetic Ancestry Test

There’s lots of controversy surrounding DNA tests, the storing of sensitive information, and the accuracy of the genome reviews.  It is vital to remember that not all DNA tests offer the same level of accuracy, searchable records, or reliability.

DNA Weekly

The marketplace offering DNA tests isn’t strictly regulated. Many genome tests are more entertainment and educated guesswork than actual factual results. It can be difficult sorting the wheat from the chaff.

Reputable companies like Ancestry.com and 23andMe offer a variety of DNA tests but honing in on the type can also be a struggle.

DNA Weekly is a helpful website that provides clear, honest reviews of most DNA and genetic tests that are available to consumers.

DNA tests are the easiest way to find French and European origins. If you’re lucky you will discover connections as far back as the early middle ages.

Or like many Britons and French folks have discovered that they share more biologically with their neighbors across the Channel than they ever expected.  

Perhaps, this discovery will help conclude the centuries’ long rivalry between these two nations.               

 

 

 

Explaining the Parisian Public Transport System for Tourists

Enjoy this informative guest post about public transport in Paris 

Visitors to Paris are blessed with not only an abundance of things to see, but a great range of public transport options to get there!

Paris’ public transport network includes the famous Paris Métro, public buses, regional trains and trams, and is comparatively cheap, easy to use and mostly reliable. 

The different options and alternatives may seem confusing at first, so we have compiled this handy guide to help you understand the Parisian public transport system to truly enjoy your visit to Paris. 

Passes and tickets

Each transport system allows you to buy specific tickets for that network – see more on this in the sections below.

However, you can also buy RATP tickets and passes which are valid for use across the Métro, bus, train and tram systems. This can be a good option if you are planning on staying more than a day or two, or if you want to visit many different parts of the city. 

There are many different fare options which you can view and compare on the RATP website, but a good option for tourists is the Paris Visite pass which allows unlimited travel across Métro, bus, RER trains and trams for 5.80€ per day. 

Storage

Navigating around Paris on public transport is easy once you understand the various networks and systems. You don’t want to be weighed down with luggage while you are exploring the City of Light, but luckily there are some great options for luggage storage in Paris.

Métro

The first line of the Paris Métro was opened in 1900, and there are now 20 Métro lines which criss-cross the central 20 arrondissements of the city. The Métro is fast, frequent and runs from 5.30am until after midnight every day.

Métro tickets can be purchased at ticket machines at every station, either as a single ticket for 1.90€ or a carnet of 10 tickets for 14.90€. Children (aged 4-10 years) do not get a discount on single tickets, but there is a children’s price for a carnet of 10 tickets which is half of the full adult fare. Children under four travel for free.

You can change to as many lines as you want and travel throughout the city on a single ticket, as long as you do not exit the station. Make sure to always hang on to your ticket, as you will need it to exit!  

You can plan your route on the RATP site which covers not only the metro but also RER trains, bus and tram, or check the online map.

RER trains

RER is Paris’ regional train network. The trains run throughout the city and suburbs of Paris, with five major lines, and connect up with the Métro at various interchange stations.

It is unlikely to be worthwhile catching an RER train rather than the Métro within central Paris, however they can be useful for visiting destinations further out and in surrounding areas, such as the Palace of Versailles and Disneyland Paris. RER trains are also one of the easiest ways to get to and from both of Paris’ airports.

Tickets are the same as those for the Métro, so you can use some of your carnet of tickets bought at any Metro station, or purchase tickets at RER/Metro interchange stations for the same price.

Bus

Although the metro will take you pretty much anywhere you want to go in central Paris, buses are sometimes preferable as they may offer a more direct route, as well as having the advantage of being able to see the sights from the window.

There are many bus routes throughout the city, all with a route number. Check the RATP site for route and timetable information. You will also find free bus maps at tourist offices and metro stations.

Tickets can be purchased from the driver for 2.00€ - be sure to have change and validate your ticket once on board. You can also use the slightly cheaper metro tickets on the bus (though not the other way around), if you have purchased them earlier at the metro station.

Tram

Many tourists do not realise that Paris also has a tram system. Trams were reintroduced into the city in the 1990’s, and there are now four sleek and modern tram lines throughout the greater Paris area. 

The reason tourists are not familiar with the tram system is that they are not found near common tourist destinations, mostly running from the outer edges of the central arrondissements out into the suburbs. The T3 line is the only one which is found in central Paris, running from the Pont du Garigliano in the 15^th arrondissement to the Porte d’Ivry in the 13^th.

However, if you do find cause to use Paris’ trams you will find them clean and convenient, running every five to seven minutes from early morning through to late afternoon. Ticket machines can be found on platforms on each station, and you can also use your RATP tickets and passes.

Velib

Although not part of Paris’ public transport system and operated by a private company, Velib is a great option for tourists wanting to get around the city and is available to everyone. Velib stations can be found around the city (check the Velib app for locations), allowing you to pick up and drop off bicycles as you like. Rental tickets for bicycles can be bought at any Velib station or online.

I am so pleased to have Ann Mah as my guest this week at on A Bite of Paris. We went to Le Mistral, her favorite Paris bistro and had their signature dish, aligot, a rich, creamy mix of whipped potatoes and cheese from the Aveyron region.

Click here   or link below to watch Ann and I enjoy aligote.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LiRHIW7Oitw&t=4s 

Come experience Eye Prefer Paris live with Eye Prefer Paris Tours, which are 3-hour walking tours I personally lead. Eye Prefer Paris Tours include many of the places I have written about such as small museums & galleries, restaurants, cafes, food markets, secret addresses, fashion & home boutiques, parks and gardens and much more.  In addition to my specialty Marais Tour, I also lead tours of Montmartre, St. Germain, Latin Quarter, in addition to Shopping Tours, Gay Tours, Girlfriend Tours, Food Tours, Flea Market Tours, Paris Highlights Tours, and Chocolate & Pastry tours.

Tours start at 225 euros for up to 3 people, and 75 euros for each additional person. I look forward to meeting you on my tours and it will be my pleasure and delight to show you, my insiders, Paris.

 Check it out at www.eyepreferparistours.com 

 

The Best Spots To Watch The World Cup In Paris

Today is a guest post about best places to watch The World Cup in Paris.

The World Cup is rapidly approaching, and football fans around the world are already excited. And with the event returning to Europe (to be hosted in cities around Russia), many of the greatest football fan bases in the world will be able to tune in very closely. This of course includes legions of passionate French followers.

It’s likely that many French supporters will in fact make the relatively manageable trip into Russia for a few matches. Travel isn’t always the most logical way to experience the World Cup, simply because it’s expensive and there are a lot of hassles, but French fans may make an exception in 2018. That’s because France is considered to be one of the true favorites to win the event. Additionally, looking at the schedule for the group stages, two of France’s early games are fairly accessible – against Australia in Kazan, and versus Denmark in Moscow.

Even if French supporters travel well, however, many more will remain in the country – and in Paris specifically – to watch the matches on friendly home territory. Odds are once the matches start up it’s going to be hard to get much space in some more popular football pubs. But in case you’re interested in planning in advance and watching the Cup at a venue like this, here’s a look at some of the best options.

Le Magellan

Le Magellan is a sort of old-school sports bar, with its own dartboard, a strong beer selection, and status as a sort of alternative to clubbing. It’s a popular spot in general but should be particularly packed for the World Cup. This is certainly a place you’ll want to get to early if you’re aiming to watch one of the better matches.

Les Tontons Bringueurs

This bar actually headlined a list of the best places to watch Euro 2016 a few years ago, and the recommendation stands. Perhaps more than any other major bar in town, it caters to major events – even to the point that the owner will extend his happy hour until the end of whatever match is on! This place should be an absolute blast during France’s matches.

The Lions

The Lions is actually a British pub, and one that’s known as a good place for watching football. Naturally it won’t be as devoted specifically to French football during the Cup, but it will likely be airing all of the major matches, and ultimately it’s just a fun place to have a drink and a conversation while you watch.

The Bombardier Pub

This is another British pub, and one that almost seems like a film set. It’s built to resemble a sort of student bar, though it’s also just a comfortable place to have a pint and relax. It’ll be bustling for the World Cup, likely with plenty of English supporters mingling with French (which could make things interesting).

 I am very excited to announce the launch of my new video series A Bite of Paris, on my You Tube channel, Eye Prefer Paris.
The format of the series is every week I visit either a restaurant, food shop or food market to taste my favorite French foods.

Click here to watch the latest episode about creme brulee and please hit the red subscribe button when you watch it.

Come experience Eye Prefer Paris live with Eye Prefer Paris Tours, which are 3-hour walking tours I personally lead. Eye Prefer Paris Tours include many of the places I have written about such as small museums & galleries, restaurants, cafes, food markets, secret addresses, fashion & home boutiques, parks and gardens and much more.  In addition to my specialty Marais Tour, I also lead tours of Montmartre, St. Germain, Latin Quarter, in addition to Shopping Tours, Gay Tours, Girlfriend Tours, Food Tours, Flea Market Tours, Paris Highlights Tours, and Chocolate & Pastry tours.

Tours start at 225 euros for up to 3 people, and 75 euros for each additional person. I look forward to meeting you on my tours and it will be my pleasure and delight to show you my insiders Paris.

 Check it out at www.eyepreferparistours.com 

  Click here to watch a video of our famous Marais tour

Travel Wifi: May the Connection Be with You!

Here’s a post with info about an excellent Wifi service when you are traveling.

We are living in the age of traveling. We all travel to discover, to meet people and to leave our comfort zones to broaden our horizons. Regardless of the purpose of our travels, we all have one thing in common, spending time trying to find decent Internet connection.

Travel Wifi puts an end to your ultimate Internet-quest by providing wifi to travelers and promises that their product will be your perfect company abroad. The Parisian start-up offers 4G connection in France as well as all over Europe and more than 120 destinations around the World. Their France & Europe hotspots offer huge data plan (3GB/day) making sure you have more than enough Internet all the time.

You don’t have to worry about having an unlocked phone or changing your number as you won’t be needing any of these. Travel Wifi is a pocket-sized dongle which creates its own 4G network once turned on and enables you to use your cellphone just like at home. Moreover, the hotspot is connectable up to 10 devices at the same time so that you could share your connection with your travel buddies.

Having your secure private connection has never been easier! Travel Wifi takes reservations on their website. After booking your pocket wifi you may choose to get it directly from the Charles de Gaulle or Orly Airports, from their office in Paris center or have it delivered to your accommodation.

You will receive a Travel Case including your Travel Wifi, a set of charger & cable, user’s manual and prepaid return envelope and start using Internet as soon as you have the device. Navigating around the city using Google Maps, calling an Uber, connecting through the social media, checking your e-mails and streaming are a few of the ways that having a reliable connection in Paris would be useful for.

Likewise, booking & receiving, return is also hustle-free. All you will have to do is putting the Travel Wifi and its accessory into the Travel case and putting the Travel Case in the prepaid envelope. Once you drop the envelope from any mail box on the street, your return will be complete.

Travel Wifi is reachable via phone and chat from their website as well as on Facebook, Twitter and Instagram within their business hours and they reply the e-mails sent to [email protected] as soon as possible regardless the time.

Try Travel Wifi now and travel the world without losing connection!

 I am very excited to announce the launch of my new video series A Bite of Paris, on my You Tube channel, Eye Prefer Paris.
The format of the series is every week I visit either a restaurant, food shop or food market to taste my favorite French foods.

Click here to watch the latest episode and please hit the red subscribe button when you watch it.

 

Renting a Car in Paris

Today is a guest post on practical ways to rent a car in Paris.

Paris
Thinking about traveling to Paris? With it’s romantic appearance Paris is one of the most popular getaways in Europe. It’s a magical place for all: not only for couples in love, but also for the entire family.

It’s hard to see all of Paris’ famous attractions in one day, so be sure to stay around for a couple of days or a week.Only then you can truly relax and enjoy all the beautiful things Paris has to offer you.

And don’t just limit yourself to the city, also do some sightseeing outside the city. Make sure to rent a car in advance, especially when you need a (infant) car seat or if you want that one special car. With a car you don’t have to rely on the public transportation and you can see a whole lot more in a day.

Pick-up your car
In Paris are several pick-up locations for your rental car. Most convenient is to get your car at the airport on which you arrive. Paris has three airports: Aeroport Paris-Beauvais (located 80 km – 49 miles from Paris), Aeroport Roissy Charles de Gaulle (30 km- 18 miles from Paris) and Aeroport d’Orly (18 km – 11 miles from Paris). If you prefer to get your car later, you can choose a location downtown or one near a train station. Decide which location works best for you and also compare prices of rental cars in Paris.

What to see and do in Paris?
Driving in Paris can be quite challenging, so park your car in one of the streets or in a large car park. The best way to move around the city center, is by walking or using the public transportation system.

Paris is one of the largest cities in Europe and has plenty of famous landmarks. So you can go and hold hands beneath the Eiffel Tower, climb the Arc de Triomphe for an amazing view of the city and Eiffel tower, ride a bike at the Champs d'Elysées, take a boat trip on the Seine, smile back at the Mona Lisa at the Louvre Museum, view some more art at Musee d’Orsay or Centre Pompidou, light a candle at the Notre-Dame or have a picnic in Parc du Champ-de-Mars. Be sure to book some tickets in advance to skip the long lines! Or take a guided tour through Paris and see most highlights.

Sightseeing around Paris

Having a hire car you opens many opportunities for discovering the surroundings. It’s fun to tour some of Paris’ neighborhoods like Montmartre. And what about booking a hotel in the nearby town of Giverny? Home of famous painter Monet. This way you can experience a whole different side of France!

 If you want to release your inner child or create lasting magical memories with your children, you must visit Disneyland Paris. With two theme parks it’s almost impossible to ride all the 50 attractions in one day. So you might want to stay for two days. Can’t get enough of the roller coasters? Visit the second biggest theme parc in France: Parc Astérix. Based on the comic book Astérix (the parks isn’t open the entire year).

 And don’t forget about the Palace of Versailles. Feel like king Louis XIV for a moment when your stare at the amazing rooms or walk around in the extensive gardens. Another great palace to visit is Palace de Fontainebleau, surrounded by an enormous French National Park.

 Eye Prefer Paris Postcards

I am thrilled to announce the launch of Eye Prefer Paris Postcards, a 3, 6 or 12-month subscription service where the subscriber receives three physical postcards of my iconic Paris photos every month. Each month will have a specific theme, from architectural street scenes to romantic outdoor cafes to beautiful gardens to unique shots of iconic monuments. Each mailing will include two postcards in color and one in black & white or sepia, beautifully packaged in a special French Blue postcard holder with a custom designed seal.

Each 6” X 4.25” traditional size postcard is printed on thick matte coated card stock, similar to traditional vintage postcard stock that enhances the vibrancy of every image.

Only $30 for a 3-month subscription plus shipping or

Only $60 for a 6 month subscription (plus shipping)or

$110 for a 12-month subscription (plus shipping)

Click here to order a 12-month subscription from my Etsy store

Click here to order a 6-month subscription from my Etsy store

Click here to order a 3-month subscription from my Etsy store

Come experience Eye Prefer Paris live with Eye Prefer Paris Tours, which are 3-hour walking tours I personally lead. Eye Prefer Paris Tours include many of the places I have written about such as small museums & galleries, restaurants, cafes, food markets, secret addresses, fashion & home boutiques, parks and gardens and much more.  In addition to my specialty Marais Tour, I also lead tours of Montmartre, St. Germain, Latin Quarter, in addition to Shopping Tours, Gay Tours, Girlfriend Tours, Food Tours, Flea Market Tours, Paris Highlights Tours, and Chocolate & Pastry tours.

Tours start at 225 euros for up to 3 people, and 75 euros for each additional person. I look forward to meeting you on my tours and it will be my pleasure and delight to show you my insiders Paris.

 Check it out at www.eyepreferparistours.com 

  Click here to watch a video of our famous Marais tour

New! Eye Prefer Paris Cooking Classes
I am happy to announce the launch of Eye Prefer Paris Cooking Classes. Come take an ethnic culinary journey with me and chef and caterer Charlotte Puckette, co-author of the bestseller The Ethnic Paris Cookbook (with Olivia Kiang-Snaije). First we will shop at a Paris green-market for the freshest ingredients and then return to Charlotte's professional kitchen near the Eiffel Tower to cook a three-course lunch. After, we will indulge in the delicious feast we prepared along with hand-selected wines.

Cost: 195 euros per person (about $210)
Time: 9:30AM- 2PM (approximately 4 1/2 hours)
Location: We will meet by a metro station close to the market
Class days: Tuesday,Wednesday, Thursday,Friday, Saturday, and Sunday
Minimum of 2 students, maximum 6 students.

Click here to sign up for the next class or for more info.

 

Boudoir Photo and Portrait Shoots when Traveling in Paris

Today’s guest post is by Cherie Steinberg, who specializes in boudoir and portrait photography. Checkout her story and her sexy photos and intimate portraits. Cherie has received international acclaim for her photos including write-ups in the Huffington Post and The London Telegraph. I recommend getting a portrait by Cherie but dare you to have a boudoir photo session.

Charles Dickens once said, “what an immense impression Paris made upon me. It is the most extraordinary place in the world!” and we feel the same way. Paris has long been associated with love, romance, sensuality, sexuality, fashion and passion, not to mention the deeps roots of boudoir & fashion portrait photography in France. We love Paris so much that we frequently travel there, with out cameras in tow, to take every opportunity to shoot boudoir and personal portrait imagery in the amazing Paris backdrops & locations. Speaking of Cameras, even Nikon considers us one of the best boudoir and portrait photographers in the country and we take that recognition to heart.

The term “boudoir” originally comes from the French word for a woman’s private dressing room, because of that; the glamour of boudoir is often attributed to its French origins. This is why shooting glamour boudoir is ideal in Paris. We take great pride in being one of the most sought after boudoir photography studios in Beverly Hills and we love to take our skills and cameras overseas to shoot in Paris. Cameras capture more than just images, they capture the emotions that are being felt at that time and few places in the world create more magical emotions than the feelings one gets while in Paris.

Unless you’ve been to Paris before, you can’t fully understand the emotions and feelings that empower your being upon your arrival. Walking through the cobbled streets, past the old structures and among statues and history of love and life long ago, might lead you to start to embody a Parisian. You will feel the difference of shooting in Paris the minute the first photo is taken and your images will reveal the true inner sexy Parisian that you have locked inside you!

Every woman needs to visit Paris once in her life to experience a city known for love, fashion and lust. You’ll treasure every second and moment you spend in Paris from the food, fashion, architecture and people; Paris will forever hold a key to your heart. I promise and it is truly the most empowering experience to have a portrait or sexy shoot in that city of all cities in the world.

We feel what makes us one of the top boudoir & portrait photography studios is our ability to capture the emotion in our photos and Paris is just the place to feel passion and love to capture in photographs. The Huffington Post credits us as being one of the top boudoir & portrait photographers in the country, as does the London Telegraph. If you’re going to Paris and interested in a boudoir or personal portrait shoot, please contact us and we will add your email to our travel list and notify you of our next trip. Let us capture your love for Paris when you visit by booking a  photo shoot in Paris.

We’ll see you soon…in Paris!   Xoxo
Cherie

Below are links to both of my websites.

cheriefoto.com
theboudoircafe.com

 

My Paris Apartment for Rent October 29 to November 16

I am renting my fabulous Paris apartment in the heart of the Marais near St. Paul metro, from October 29 to November 11, a total of 14 nights. It's a spacious one-bedroom 750 sq. ft. loft style apartment with 12 ft. ceilings, decorated in chic Mid-Century Modern furniture and sleeps one or two people in a Queen size bed. Amenities include washer/dryer, 16" flat screen TV, dishwasher, internet connection/Wifi and free long distance calls to the U.S.  The apartment is located on the second floor with an elevator.

The price is $225 a night with a minimum rental 5 nights. Price is negotiable if staying more than 7 nights. Photos upon request. Please email me at [email protected] if you are interested.

Eye Prefer Paris Postcards

I am thrilled to announce the launch of Eye Prefer Paris Postcards, a 3, 6 or 12-month subscription service where the subscriber receives three physical postcards of my iconic Paris photos every month. Each month will have a specific theme, from architectural street scenes to romantic outdoor cafes to beautiful gardens to unique shots of iconic monuments. Each mailing will include two postcards in color and one in black & white or sepia, beautifully packaged in a special French Blue postcard holder with a custom designed seal.

Each 6” X 4.25” traditional size postcard is printed on thick matte coated card stock, similar to traditional vintage postcard stock that enhances the vibrancy of every image.

Only $30 for a 3-month subscription plus shipping or

Only $60 for a 6 month subscription (plus shipping)or

$110 for a 12-month subscription (plus shipping)

Click here to order a 12-month subscription from my Etsy store

Click here to order a 6-month subscription from my Etsy store

Click here to order a 3-month subscription from my Etsy store

Come experience Eye Prefer Paris live with Eye Prefer Paris Tours, which are 3-hour walking tours I personally lead. Eye Prefer Paris Tours include many of the places I have written about such as small museums & galleries, restaurants, cafes, food markets, secret addresses, fashion & home boutiques, parks and gardens and much more.  In addition to my specialty Marais Tour, I also lead tours of Montmartre, St. Germain, Latin Quarter, in addition to Shopping Tours, Gay Tours, Girlfriend Tours, Food Tours, Flea Market Tours, Paris Highlights Tours, and Chocolate & Pastry tours.

Tours start at 225 euros for up to 3 people, and 75 euros for each additional person. I look forward to meeting you on my tours and it will be my pleasure and delight to show you my insiders Paris.

 Check it out at www.eyepreferparistours.com 

  Click here to watch a video of our famous Marais tour

New! Eye Prefer Paris Cooking Classes
I am happy to announce the launch of Eye Prefer Paris Cooking Classes. Come take an ethnic culinary journey with me and chef and caterer Charlotte Puckette, co-author of the bestseller The Ethnic Paris Cookbook (with Olivia Kiang-Snaije). First we will shop at a Paris green-market for the freshest ingredients and then return to Charlotte's professional kitchen near the Eiffel Tower to cook a three-course lunch. After, we will indulge in the delicious feast we prepared along with hand-selected wines.

Cost: 195 euros per person (about $210)
Time: 9:30AM- 2PM (approximately 4 1/2 hours)
Location: We will meet by a metro station close to the market
Class days: Tuesday,Wednesday, Thursday,Friday, Saturday, and Sunday
Minimum of 2 students, maximum 6 students.

Click here to sign up for the next class or for more info.

May 1968 Riots by Karen Donner

Every once in a while I receive emails from blog readers, usually from the U.S., who share their experience of living in Paris for a period of time.

Karen Donner is a high school French teacher from the U.S. and recently sent a colorful story about being a university student during the May 1968 riots. Karen is proud to have her story told in a French history text book and now jokingly tell her students she’s old enough to be in a history book.

I posted another story in 2008 by an American student who also witnessed the May 1968 riots. Click here to read her story.

May 1968 Riots by Karen Donner

For my third year of university studies, majoring in French (and later having earned my MA) I studied in Paris. About 40 students from all over the U.S., under the auspices of The University of Alma, Michigan, flew by prop jet from JFK to Reykjavik, Iceland - for fueling - to Luxembourg from whence we were transported into Paris - and this was end of August 1967!  Hence the impact of this story.  Fast forward to the fact that we were there during the May, 1968 riots, which were wisely staged during the annual "grêves" (strikes) of most of the government businesses/agencies, such as the railroad, the Metro, and the trucking industry.  The graduating university students nationwide were protesting the system by which their final exams were graded as passed or not passed. Tests were sent to professors in different regions of the country so they would not know the students. The government considered how many jobs of what kind would be available for that graduating class. The number of students considered to have "passed" was entirely according to that statistic.  Thus, even a grade of what we would call 85%, for example, might be called "not passing".  The students unfortunate enough to be below the "acceptable" % that year had to attend university another year and try again.

We American students heard that the American Media was hearing that the rioting students were tearing up the cobblestones on the St. Michel and turning over "many" cars and setting them on fire.  Of course the Guard, who was called in, had to use tear gas to disperse the agitated students.  We heard the klaxon of the emergency and police vehicles.  A few of the students of our group decided to approach the St. Michel from back streets (many of us were housed in two Pensions next to the Jardins de Luxembourg). They saw only one car overturned, no fires and only a few cobblestones picked up (which had been thrown into one store window). I called my parents to let them know that we were safe and the disorder was mostly noise.  Someone through a tear gas canister up onto the balcony of a larger bedroom where a bunch of us were gathered to wait out the sirens and excitement. I ran to the open window and kicked off the smoking canister and closed the porte-fenêtres. However, just enough gas had escaped to enter the room.  We couldn't  believe how much that small amount made our eyes burn.  The part of this moment in history which adversely affected us was that the transportation strikes made it complicated for us to return to the U.S. "on time".  My sadness was much more intense as my "French Family" was unable to obtain enough gasoline to pick me up to have a "last" visit with them and I was unable to get any mass transit to get to them. (They still live in Meudon and we still see each other).

My Paris Apartment for Rent October 29 to November 11

I am renting my fabulous Paris apartment in the heart of the Marais near St. Paul metro, from October 29 to November 11, a total of 14 nights. It's a spacious one-bedroom 750 sq. ft. loft style apartment with 12 ft. ceilings, decorated in chic Mid-Century Modern furniture and sleeps one or two people in a Queen size bed. Amenities include washer/dryer, 16" flat screen TV, dishwasher, internet connection/Wifi and free long distance calls to the U.S.  The apartment is located on the second floor with an elevator.

The price is $225 a night with a minimum rental 5 nights. Price is negotiable if staying more than 7 nights. Photos upon request. Please email me at [email protected] if you are interested.

Eye Prefer Paris Postcards

I am thrilled to announce the launch of Eye Prefer Paris Postcards, a 3, 6 or 12-month subscription service where the subscriber receives three physical postcards of my iconic Paris photos every month. Each month will have a specific theme, from architectural street scenes to romantic outdoor cafes to beautiful gardens to unique shots of iconic monuments. Each mailing will include two postcards in color and one in black & white or sepia, beautifully packaged in a special French Blue postcard holder with a custom designed seal.

Each 6” X 4.25” traditional size postcard is printed on thick matte coated card stock, similar to traditional vintage postcard stock that enhances the vibrancy of every image.

Only $30 for a 3-month subscription plus shipping or

Only $60 for a 6 month subscription (plus shipping)or

$110 for a 12-month subscription (plus shipping)

Click here to order a 12-month subscription from my Etsy store

Click here to order a 6-month subscription from my Etsy store

Click here to order a 3-month subscription from my Etsy store

Come experience Eye Prefer Paris live with Eye Prefer Paris Tours, which are 3-hour walking tours I personally lead. Eye Prefer Paris Tours include many of the places I have written about such as small museums & galleries, restaurants, cafes, food markets, secret addresses, fashion & home boutiques, parks and gardens and much more.  In addition to my specialty Marais Tour, I also lead tours of Montmartre, St. Germain, Latin Quarter, in addition to Shopping Tours, Gay Tours, Girlfriend Tours, Food Tours, Flea Market Tours, Paris Highlights Tours, and Chocolate & Pastry tours.

Tours start at 225 euros for up to 3 people, and 75 euros for each additional person. I look forward to meeting you on my tours and it will be my pleasure and delight to show you my insiders Paris.

 Check it out at www.eyepreferparistours.com 

  Click here to watch a video of our famous Marais tour

New! Eye Prefer Paris Cooking Classes
I am happy to announce the launch of Eye Prefer Paris Cooking Classes. Come take an ethnic culinary journey with me and chef and caterer Charlotte Puckette, co-author of the bestseller The Ethnic Paris Cookbook (with Olivia Kiang-Snaije). First we will shop at a Paris green-market for the freshest ingredients and then return to Charlotte's professional kitchen near the Eiffel Tower to cook a three-course lunch. After, we will indulge in the delicious feast we prepared along with hand-selected wines.

Cost: 195 euros per person (about $210)
Time: 9:30AM- 2PM (approximately 4 1/2 hours)
Location: We will meet by a metro station close to the market
Class days: Tuesday,Wednesday, Thursday,Friday, Saturday, and Sunday
Minimum of 2 students, maximum 6 students.

Click here to sign up for the next class or for more info.

Two Great Neighborhoods for Street Art in Paris

Today's post by Lia Corrado of France Homestyle is an fun tour of some of the rich street art of Paris.

Few can contest that Paris is a visually enchanting city, magnetizing photographers and artists from around the globe. From the stately Haussmann architecture and sumptuous window displays to the winding cobblestone passageways bordered by lush gardens spilling out over wrought iron gates, the City of Lights is a feast for the eyes. Just try getting bored while watching the world go by at a Parisian café terrace.

Not surprisingly, then, the culture of street art here is one of the richest in the world. The past sixty years have seen this tradition ripen and blossom into a legitimate art form. On a recent trip to Paris, I was inspired to follow the tracks of the mysterious personalities who adorn the city’s walls and streets with stencils, pasted paper cutouts, paintings, and even cement etchings.

Walking slowly and purposefully gave me the chance to open my senses and tap into the creative pulse that makes Paris such a vibrant destination. Leaving aside the 3rd and the 11th arrondissement near la Republique, I chose two itineraries that will offer you a taste of contemporary street art in Paris, while taking you a little off the beaten tourist path.

Belleville

A haven for creative types, Belleville is a palette unto itself, as you’ll discover when you wander the backstreets off of main avenues such as Rue des Pyrénées and Rue de Ménilmontant.

Here you’ll find Jerome Mesnager’s ethereal white bodies dancing on the walls, Philippe Herard’s ghostly, faceless forms pushing, pulling, and squeezing themselves into the cracks and contours of building, and a host of others.

Starting in front of the pretty Eglise du Jourdain at Metro Jourdain, I followed Rue Jourdain as it winded down toward Rue des Pyrénées, noting the brightly painted jungle creatures that paraded down the street. I crossed the street at the intersection and descended the stairs at Rue Levert, then wandered down Rue de la Mare over to Rue de Savies, where curious faces peered out from the soft plaster walls. I ended up on Rue des Cascades, entranced by the humorous and elegant art deco-esque figures of Fred le Chevalier, then strolled down Rue Henri Chevreau all the way to Rue de Ménilmontant, a lively street made famous by the huge mural depicting Jerome Mesnager’s ethereal dancing bodies. Further up the street I turned left on Rue de l’Ermitage to reach the magical alleyway Villa de l’Ermitage and its sculptural treasures. Finally I found myself back on Rue des Pyrénées where I stopped and had a drink at the wine bar on tranquil Place Guignier after all that walking and photo snapping. Le bonheur!

Butte aux Cailles/Rue du Chevaleret

I was lucky to live in the FranceHomestyle Gobelins apartment in the unsung 13th arrondissement or a few months, and was delighted to discover an abundance of creativity on display in the most unexpected places. While visiting the ultra-modern Bibliothèque Nationale Francois Mitterrand one afternoon, I passed an intriguing building that resembled a haunted Victorian mansion with a modern twist. Les Frigos, 19 rue des Frigos, is a warehouse that once served the national railway company and now provides studio space for over 200 artists. Take a tour all the way around the building for a fantastical display of graffiti in all its variation, and be sure to poke your head in during open studio visits.

Just up the street, humble Rue du Chevaleret leads to a residential area with plenty of whimsical secrets. Amble down Rue Duchefdelaville to place Jeanne d’Arc, then follow Rue Jeanne d’Arc all the way to Blvd Vincent Auriol, where Shephard Fairey’s 2012 mural brings sensual life to an otherwise nondescript apartment building. Follow the boulevard up to Place d’ Italie, and then spend an afternoon strolling through the winding slopes of la Butte aux Cailles, keeping your eyes peeled for Miss Tic’s sultry dark haired women and their clever quotes, and the marvelous cement etchings of Portuguese artist Vhils.

http://www.francehomestyle.com/

 

The Battle of Somme by Thirza Vallois

Last Friday, July1, was the 100th anniversary of The Battle of Somme, the most important battle of WWI. Historian and author Thirza Vallois has written extensively and lectured about WWI for several years. Thirza has written an informative article commemorating the historic battle.

It was a beautiful day on the Somme that 1st July 1916, the most beautiful day of that summer so far, sunny and cloudless, with just a hint of mist on the meadows at day break, reported Siegfried Sassoon.  "The weather was the kind commonly called heavenly" he wrote, "The skylarks were singing as they flew heavenwards and unknown to them thousands of our soldiers were on their way there too".  They would first have to be baptised by the fire of hell. At 7.30am, the blue heavens over the Somme Valley made way to a deluge of lead and iron, the skylarks to an Apocalypse of guns, smoke and fire. The worst disaster in the history of British warfare was about to commence and Paradise lost to an entire generation of young British men. This was the beginning of the Battle of the Somme.  

They came to France as volunteers initially, from England and from all corners of her Empire, for King, Country and Empire, chivalrous some, out to defend a decent world against the bullying Hun and his tyrant of a Kaiser, Wilhelm II. These were often the educated ones -  the Public Schools Battalions - Oxbridge graduates and such, out on a crusade for the defence of civilisation. Others came for the adventure, for the thrill beyond the sea, away from the rote of daily life; others still for comradeship, entire communities from Northern England in the main, Scotland and Ireland too, "pals" excited to fight together in the same battalions, innocently sailing arm-in-arm to France. They were so young, so easily taken in by the prevailing propaganda, playfully recreating an underground London in the trenches — White City, Bond Street, Park Lane..., whimsically renaming soon-to-be deadly battlefields  Mash Valley, Sausage Valley...

The Offensive was preceded by a seven-day unrelenting artillery barrage. At zero hour, it was presumed, the German defence would have been wiped out, the men would sweep over No Man's Land unhindered and climb up the ridge to capture the German positions. It all seemed so simple. Instead the Germans, far from wiped out, were comfortably installed in their deep dugouts. If shadows of doubt ever crossed the minds of the High Command, they preferred to brush it aside.  "Nothing could exist at the conclusion of the bombardment" said General Rawlinson, who headed the Somme operation. Yet Lt Cl Sandys, who had noticed that the German wire had not been cut, spent sleepless nights over his misgivings.  His Second Middlesex were to advance through the above mentioned Mash Valley, a vast No Man's Land situated in a depression. To the left it was exposed to the Ovillers Spur, ahead to 750m-high ground, and to the right to the Bapaume-Albert road. Sandys suspected the Germans were dug in along those elevated positions, but was unheeded. Wounded on the first day of the battle and evacuated to England, he would take his own life the following September.

The Germans knew an attack was underway. On the eve of the Offensive, General Rawlinson's final message to the troops was transmitted by phone at La Boisselle and intercepted by the Germans, informing them the attack was imminent. The next morning, at 7.28am, as a final preliminary two minutes ahead of the attack, a series of mines were exploded under the Germans, at La Boisselle, Fricourt and other locations, seventeen in all. Preparing this had been a seven-month job, undertaken by one of the army's Tunnelling Companies, its men largely drawn from Welsh coal-mining communities. The resulting craters, it was reckoned, would produce huge "lips" that would offer the attackers protection as they launched their assaults. For whatever reason, disregarding the general order, the local commander at Beaumont-Hamel, on the northern edge of the battlefield, advanced the detonation to 7.20, sending up into the air a stupendous mountain of dark dust, which kept rising and rising, then hanging on suspended above the skyline before falling back upon itself and petering out into a gigantic crater.  Recorded for posterity (and visible on the internet) by war cinematographer, Geoffrey Malins, this famous scene was edited into his "Battle of the Somme", which was screened in picture houses all over Britain and believed to have been viewed by half the population. In real life, they say the roar could be heard in England. It could certainly be heard by the Germans, as well as be seen! From their elevated positions and the safety of their dugouts, they were set for curtain-rise and for action to begin.

Imagine the consequences:  the men marching on in broad daylight through the vast no-man's-land, erect and spaced out in orderly rows, as instructed, burdened by 60lb of equipment and slowed down by thick barbed wire (which the British artillery had failed to eliminate). Unknowingly, they made perfect targets, easy to mow down. When the shooting started - so sudden and unexpected -, baffled, stunned, bewildered, terrorised, they had no time to mentally process what was happening and nowhere to take shelter. An archive photo shows them as tiny creatures twisting, writhing in a thick screen of smoke, not unlike insects caught in a cobweb. Many were caught by another camera huddled like foetuses inside shell holes. And then came the sudden awareness that they were trapped, that there was no going back like a coward (and risking being shot), nor forward towards certain death.  Perhaps the cruellest realisation was that they had been cheated, that they had been promised it would be a walkover, that the Hun would be smashed by the evening.    

But their superiors had been terribly misguided - the Joffres and the Haigs who were men of the 19th century, unprepared for the tactics of modern warfare. Britain, moreover, had been predominantly a naval power, with only a small mobile army. At the outset of the war, the British Expeditionary Force numbered around 80,000 soldiers, the German and French armies over a million each. However, it had the advantage of being entirely professional and better trained. "With God's help I feel hopeful," Haig wrote in his diary. "The men are in splendid spirits." Lt Cl Sandys's misgivings did not fit into this optimistic picture and he was overruled. Yet on that first day of the attack, Captain Alan Habury-Sparrow "saw the Germans almost standing up in their trenches, well over the top, firing and sniping at those who had taken shelter in the shell holes..."  Of the 120,000 men deployed along the 45km-long front at 7.30 in the morning, 58,000 were down by the evening, 20,000 of them dead. 60% of the officers serving on the British side were killed on that day. In Habury-Sparrow's 8th Division alone, which was fighting in Mash Valley, there were 5,121 casualties, 1,900 dead. Sandys' 2nd Middlesex lost almost 600. Worse was to befall the Newfoundlanders.

No place on the memorial trail of the Somme captures the heavenly morning described by Sassoon better than the Newfoundland Memorial Park at Beaumont Hamel, inaugurated by Earl Haig in 1925. Covering a 74-acre area, it is the largest memorial area in the Somme and the largest battalion memorial on the Western Front, purchased with great effort by the women of Newfoundland to secure the battlefield in perpetuity. It encompasses the battlefield where the Newfoundlanders fought and died, with a rare well-preserved trench system, and several memorials and cemeteries. Stepping in transports you to a patch of Canada, with a visiting centre evocative of a fishing village.

In 1914 Newfoundland was not part of Canada but a British dominion, 60% of its population still born in Britain. Enthusiastically patriotic, 8,000 from a population of just under 250,000, volunteered to enlist under British command, part of the British 29th Division here in the Somme. Although they had already fought in Gallipoli, following some rudimentary training in England, "the blue putties" as they were nicknamed were unprepared for the German artillery on the Western Front. When the “Hawthorn” mine was exploded at 7.20am, it ripped a hole in the German lines, but it also alerted them to the imminence of the attack. Consequently, at 8.45, when the Newfoundlanders went over and began to advance up the slope, the Germans had already poured out of their dugouts, at the ready on the defensive lines, waiting for them to reach the top of the ridge. Within fifteen minutes they were all but annihilated.  Out of 753 men at the beginning of the attack, 68 were present at the roll call the following day, not one officer among them. The Memorial Monument — a bronze Caribou surmounting a rocky mound covered with heather — is where their aborted offensive began on the morning of that fateful July 1st,, 1916.

Thirza Vallois is also a travel writer and has written the best selling books Around and About Paris, and Aveyron, A Bridge to French Arcadia.

http://www.thirzavallois.com

British memorial at Thiépva

Newfoundland Memorial at Beaumont Hamel

I've happy to announce Eye Prefer Paris Tours has been nominated by Expatriates Magazine for Best Tour in Paris. I would greatly appreciate it for you would vote for me. Click here to vote.

Eye Prefer Paris Postcards

I am thrilled to announce the launch of Eye Prefer Paris Postcards, a 3, 6 or 12-month subscription service where the subscriber receives three physical postcards of my iconic Paris photos every month. Each month will have a specific theme, from architectural street scenes to romantic outdoor cafes to beautiful gardens to unique shots of iconic monuments. Each mailing will include two postcards in color and one in black & white or sepia, beautifully packaged in a special French Blue postcard holder with a custom designed seal.

Each 6” X 4.25” traditional size postcard is printed on thick matte coated card stock, similar to traditional vintage postcard stock that enhances the vibrancy of every image.

Only $30 for a 3-month subscription plus shipping or

Only $60 for a 6 month subscription (plus shipping)or

$110 for a 12-month subscription (plus shipping)

Click here to order a 12-month subscription from my Etsy store

Click here to order a 6-month subscription from my Etsy store

Click here to order a 3-month subscription from my Etsy store

Come experience Eye Prefer Paris live with Eye Prefer Paris Tours, which are 3-hour walking tours I personally lead. Eye Prefer Paris Tours include many of the places I have written about such as small museums & galleries, restaurants, cafes, food markets, secret addresses, fashion & home boutiques, parks and gardens and much more.  In addition to my specialty Marais Tour, I also lead tours of Montmartre, St. Germain, Latin Quarter, in addition to Shopping Tours, Gay Tours, Girlfriend Tours, Food Tours, Flea Market Tours, Paris Highlights Tours, and Chocolate & Pastry tours.

Tours start at 225 euros for up to 3 people, and 75 euros for each additional person. I look forward to meeting you on my tours and it will be my pleasure and delight to show you my insiders Paris.

 Check it out at www.eyepreferparistours.com 

  Click here to watch a video of our famous Marais tour

New! Eye Prefer Paris Cooking Classes
I am happy to announce the launch of Eye Prefer Paris Cooking Classes. Come take an ethnic culinary journey with me and chef and caterer Charlotte Puckette, co-author of the bestseller The Ethnic Paris Cookbook (with Olivia Kiang-Snaije). First we will shop at a Paris green-market for the freshest ingredients and then return to Charlotte's professional kitchen near the Eiffel Tower to cook a three-course lunch. After, we will indulge in the delicious feast we prepared along with hand-selected wines.

Cost: 195 euros per person (about $210)
Time: 9:30AM- 2PM (approximately 4 1/2 hours)
Location: We will meet by a metro station close to the market
Class days: Tuesday,Wednesday, Thursday,Friday, Saturday, and Sunday
Minimum of 2 students, maximum 6 students.

Click here to sign up for the next class or for more info.