I Prefer Paris

Café of the Month, July 2024: Petit Palais

Having a coffee in the stupendous rotunda in the Petite Palais is one of my favorite café experiences and the Petite Palais is one of my favorite buildings in Paris, so it’s a double treat: excellent coffee and stunning architecture.

The Petite Palais, constructed for the 1900 World’s Fair, was designed by architect Charles Girault and is supreme example of the Beaux Arts style, which was at the height of its heyday in the early 1900s. The courtyard is comprised of a trapezoidal shape garden with soaring columns of pink Vosges granite and gilt-bronze gracing the semicircle, covered gallery.

In addition to coffee and tea, the Le Café 1902 offers a light lunch menu of sandwiches, salads, and plats, plus desserts and pastries.

I just love the fact that anyone can enjoy the gorgeous visual of the Petit Palais, for a mere 3€ for a cup of coffee or even for free. (Admission is free of charge for the permanent collection).

Petite Palais

Ave. Winston Churchill Ave. Winston Churchill, 75008

https://www.petitpalais.paris.fr/en

Café of the Month- July 2024- Café Francoeur

While photographing the doors on rue Custine earlier this month, I needed a caffeine fix and stopped by the delightful Café Francoeur. The sidewalk part of the café has bold red and white striped awnings festooned with gold fringe, so Parisian. The chairs are trimmed with attractive red and black, waxed rattan and there is a narrow white tile wall with inserts of Art Nouveau, painted signs with the offerings of the café.

The inside is a dazzling mélange of golden light from yellow, fluorescent tubes, glass sconces casting a pale golden light, and a highly ornate ceiling painted in gold contrasted by highly polished, dark wood banquettes, and wide planked, wood floors. I had my usual café noisette indoors, to soak up the atmosphere. A well-dressed couple having lunch in the corner and others were enjoying a late morning coffee.

The reasonably priced and appetizing menu has French staples such as escargot, country style paté, steak tartar, steak frites, and foie gras, and a decent choice of vegetarian dishes.

Café Francoeur 129 rue Caulaincourt, 75018

https://www.thefork.fr/restaurant/cafe-francoeur-r802323/menu

 

Café of the Month: Café Sevenly Heart

I have a new favorite café: Café Sevenly Heart

After visiting Musee de la Chasse last Sunday, I was craving a good, strong coffee. Right across the street I peered through a glass door with a cool door handle into a cool looking café. It was 11:50 and they opened at 12, and while patiently waiting, a queue started after me with about five people. It was obvious I was on to something.

Once inside, the interior was lovely and adorable. The coffee menu was painted on white cotton fabric (very Margiela, circa early 2000’s). I ordered an espresso and looking at the vitrine with a wood frame, the row of cakes beckoned me, and I had to have a slice of banana bread.

I sat on a stone bench with individual cushions with a three-legged, dark wood table with a tarnished candle stick with melted wax that had dripped down. The natural daylight coming through a window with an old-fashioned Victrola and a tasteful floral arrangement set the pleasant mood of the café. A few minutes later my espresso arrived in an ornate, white porcelain cup with a stem on it and the cake was served on a small, stemmed cake plate of pewter ceramic. It looked like it was right out of a Martha Stewart home set.

While enjoying my hefty, moist slice of banana cake (it was so big, I saved half for Vincent) and the excellent espresso, I took in the remainder of the interior. It’s just fabulous. I love the purposely unfinished walls, the bric a brac and antiques, a wall lined with colorful bottles, and the chic bathroom sink.

I went to their website before I wrote this, and much to my delight, I discovered it’s also a wine bar in the evening which also has small plates and charcuterie platters.

55 rue des Archives, 75003 https://www.sevenlyheart.com/

That face, that face, that fabulous face

I WANT that sink

CAKE!

VINCENT'S cake, sweetly wrapped 

 

Cafe of the Month, April 2024: Café Kitsune

Coffee meets fashion at Café Kitsune.

Starting off as Maison Kitsune, a music label created in 2002 by partners Gildas Loaec (French) and Maysaya Kuroki (Japanese), the brand extended with men’s and women’s clothing, followed by coffee shops, Café Kitsune. From Bangkok to Brooklyn, Café Kitsune is now an international phenomenon. 

In Paris, there are four Café Kitsune’s, mostly clustered near the Louvre and Palais Royal. I went to the one on rue de Rivoli by the Tuileries, which has limited seating on benches and stools. I ordered a flat white, which is one of the best in Paris. While sipping my coffee, a bevy of casually, well dressed women carrying the most stylish handbags embellished with C’s, G’s, and LV’s, ordered their lattte’s and dirty chai’s. Besides great hot and ice coffee, Café Kitsune has a menu of hot and ice teas, soft drinks, ice cream, and cookies and cakes. 

In the back of the café is the Maison Kitsune clothing boutique with fun, cheerful spring clothes. 

Café Kistune 208 rue de Rivoli, 75001

https://maisonkitsune.com/mk/fr/trouver-un-cafe-2/

Should I buy that jacket? 

 

Café of the Month, March 2024: Café Beaubourg

Opened in 1987, across from the Pompidou Museum, Café Beaubourg was a startling, modern version of the old-fashioned Paris café. Architect Christian de Portzamparc’s daring, Memphis like design was a match for the audacity of the architecture of the Pompidou, opened in 1977. 

Outside, white iron chairs tufted in red, black, and white vinyl, with scalloped edges, replace the typical rattan café chairs at most French cafes. Inside, the same chairs are done in brown leather, with a black metal frame, giving the interior a club like feel and the two story structure has soaring ceilings and seating on the upper level. If you sit outside, you are greeted with a spectacular view of the Pompidou Museum. 

Café Beaubourg was also the first establishment opened by the Costes brothers, Thierry and Gilbert,who went on to own and operate some of the chicest and most popular café and restaurants such as Societe, Café Marly, and Georges, hotels, bars, and private clubs. 

My café noisette came with a meringue puff, a nice touch. 

Interestingly enough, Café Beaubourg is now a classic Parisian café. 

43 rue Saint Merri, 75004 https://cafebeaubourg.com/

Experience Eye Prefer Paris live with Eye Prefer Paris Tours, which are walking tours I personally lead. Eye Prefer Paris Tours include many of the places I have written about such as small museums & galleries, restaurants, cafes, food markets, secret addresses, fashion & home boutiques, parks and gardens, and much more.  In addition to my specialty Marais Tour, I also lead tours of Montmartre, St. Germain, Shopping Tours, Food Tours, Flea Market Tours, Paris Highlights Tours, Emily in Paris tours, and Chocolate and pastry tours.

Tours start at 275 euros for up to 3 people, and 85 euros for each additional person. I look forward to meeting you on my tours and it will be my pleasure and delight to show you, my insiders, Paris.

 Check it out at www.eyepreferparistours.com 

 

Café of the Month, February 2024: Café Benjamin

 

 There’s a kind of comfort and reliability in certain Paris cafes. 

Café Benjamin on rue de Rivoli, in between Chatelet and the Louvre, is one of them. The corner storefront wraps around rue de Rivoli with an extended white awning, trimmed in cherry red and bold, capital letters spelling out the name. The white waxed rattan chairs, with red and blue woven through, and the familiar chalkboard menu are another sign that you are in a typical Parisian café. 

Inside is a curved, zinc bar and the barman was busily making coffee and washing and drying white porcelain coffee cups. The people in the inside were a combination of tourists desiring the French café experience by ordering croissants and coffee, and locals, standing at the counter chatting up the barman and sipping expresso before going to work. 

Café Benjamin has existed since 1933 and the authenticity of that time is reflected in the floor: a jamboree of small tiles overlapping each other in a circular pattern in attractive colors of tan, pale and medium blue, blush, apricot, slate, and cranberry. 

I ordered my requisite café noisette, served with hot milk in a silver pitcher, and watched the people outside scurrying past. 

Café Benjamin has a full brasserie and café menu. 

53 rue de Rivoli, 75001

Perhaps 1933?

Café of the Month, January 2024: Noir Coffee Shop

There’s been a big influx of high-end coffee shops in Paris in the last 14 years, starting with Cotume Café in the 7^th arrondissement in 2011. Most of them source and roast their own, high-quality beans and have baristas preparing the coffee.

Noir Coffee Shop started on the Ile Saint Louis and has rapidly expanded with over 15 shops throughout Paris with an individual design for each one.

I visited the one on rue Richer in the 9^th arrondissement, the entrance to Galerie Richer, a former, 19^th century, shuttered passage. The formidable, soaring glass portal has a handsome design of patterned black wrought iron and the original Galerie Richer sign on top.

Even with the soaring ceilings, the warm interior has a stone floor with colored diamonds, a long, curved, tufted banquette, short, wood columns to place your coffee on, panels with colored, swirled glass panels, and a fabulous, wrought iron, winding staircase.

The extensive coffee menu has cappuccinos, Flat whites, Cortados, espressos, macchiatos, lattes, and filtered coffee, served with either regular milk or oat or almond milk. I had an excellent espresso macchiato, served in a ceramic cup on an oblong, wood tray.  

Noir Coffee also has a selection of teas and pastries, including financiers, brownies, scones, and cookies.

33 Rue Richer, 75009

https://noircoffeeshop.com/

Experience Eye Prefer Paris live with Eye Prefer Paris Tours, which are walking tours I personally lead. Eye Prefer Paris Tours include many of the places I have written about such as small museums & galleries, restaurants, cafes, food markets, secret addresses, fashion & home boutiques, parks and gardens, and much more.  In addition to my specialty Marais Tour, I also lead tours of Montmartre, St. Germain, Shopping Tours, Food Tours, Flea Market Tours, Paris Highlights Tours, Emily in Paris tours, and Chocolate and pastry tours.

Tours start at 250 euros for up to 3 people, and 85 euros for each additional person. I look forward to meeting you on my tours and it will be my pleasure and delight to show you, my insiders, Paris.

 Check it out at www.eyepreferparistours.com 

Café of the Month November 2023: Café La Rose de France

I recently rediscovered the lovely Place Dauphine, located on the western edge of Ile de Cité. Place Dauphine was built in the same period as Place des Vosges, from 1607 to 1610, under the reign of King Henri IV. It was named for his son the Dauphin of France, who eventually became King Louis XIII. The facades of the buildings, a combination of brick and limestone, are similar to Place des Vosges but today only two original facades still exist.

It was such a brilliant, sunny day and the tree-lined square (although it’s a rectangular shape) creating shade was an invitation for me to stop for a coffee at Café La Rose de France. Even though there are about a half dozen cafes on the square, Café La Rose de France most appealed to me. The forest green, canvas awnings and umbrellas, the green and beige wicker café chairs, and the decorative roses climbing up the front clinched my choice.

I had a café noisette and it was fine, although it was quite pricey, 4.60€, as it’s usually no more than 3€ at this type of café. The food menu looked appealing with choices such as foie gras, quiche, duck confit, croque monsieur, and a charcuterie plate.  

Café La Rose de France

24 Pl. Dauphine, 75001

 Experience Eye Prefer Paris live with Eye Prefer Paris Tours, which are walking tours I personally lead. Eye Prefer Paris Tours include many of the places I have written about such as small museums & galleries, restaurants, cafes, food markets, secret addresses, fashion & home boutiques, parks and gardens, and much more.  In addition to my specialty Marais Tour, I also lead tours of Montmartre, St. Germain, Shopping Tours, Food Tours, Flea Market Tours, Paris Highlights Tours, Emily in Paris tours, and Chocolate and pastry tours.

Tours start at 250 euros for up to 3 people, and 85 euros for each additional person. I look forward to meeting you on my tours and it will be my pleasure and delight to show you, my insiders, Paris.

 Check it out at www.eyepreferparistours.com 

 

Café of the Month, October 2023: Les Deux Palais

The lovely Les Deux Palais is nestled in a plaza perpendicular to the Marche aux Fleurs and across the street from the Palais de Justice on the Ile de Cite. Rich in La Belle Epoque architectural details inside, Les Deux Palais has intricate, geometric-shaped, mosaic floors, shiny dark red banquettes, moldings with beautiful details, small murals, and high ceilings. The fabulous, rounded bar has handsome, dark wood and a zinc top, and is lined with vivid-colored bottles of aperitifs, spirits, and liqueurs Outside on the extended terrace are mint green, striped umbrellas and awnings, and classic, green and cream color rattan chairs and benches embellishing the plaza.  

The food menu offers typical, French café fare including onion soup, escargots, croque monsieur, steak tartare, goat cheese salad, and omelets. More non-traditional dishes include Caesar salad, a vegetarian bowl, ravioli with tomatoes and mozzarella, and burrata with hazelnuts, tomatoes, and olive oil. I had salmon gravlax with lentils, which was tasty, but the portion was kind of stingy for 22€.

Les Deux Palais

3 Boulevard du Palais, 75001

https://brasserielesdeuxpalais.fr/fr

 Experience Eye Prefer Paris live with Eye Prefer Paris Tours, which are walking tours I personally lead. Eye Prefer Paris Tours include many of the places I have written about such as small museums & galleries, restaurants, cafes, food markets, secret addresses, fashion & home boutiques, parks and gardens, and much more.  In addition to my specialty Marais Tour, I also lead tours of Montmartre, St. Germain, Shopping Tours, Food Tours, Flea Market Tours, Paris Highlights Tours, Emily in Paris tours, and Chocolate and pastry tours.

Tours start at 250 euros for up to 3 people, and 85 euros for each additional person. I look forward to meeting you on my tours and it will be my pleasure and delight to show you, my insiders, Paris.

 Check it out at www.eyepreferparistours.com 

 

Café of the Month, September 2023: La Palette

One of my favorites in Saint Germain des Pres, La Palette is the quintessential Paris café. It has everything a classic Parisian café you would imagine: a zinc bar, dark wood paneling, waiters wearing starched white aprons from the waist down, classic rattan café chairs, dark leather banquettes, extended white canvas awnings, chalkboard menus, and worn-out wood tabletops.

Opened in 1902, it attracted artists including Cezanne, Picasso, and Braque and art students from the nearby Beaux-Arts school, hence the name and palettes used in the inside décor, and Hemingway, Jim Morrison, and even Julia Roberts have been clients. In the book Invisible by Paul Auster, the main character frequently goes to La Palette, and it was designated a historical landmark in 1984.

I sat inside in the dining area and ordered a café noisette. It wasn’t the best I ever had but soaking up the rich atmosphere of the dark walls, the cool, 19th-century style paintings, the waiters running to and fro, and the tarnished mirrors, made up for the mediocre coffee. 

La Palette serves an extensive drink menu with coffee, tea, soft drinks, cocktails, mocktails, beers, and shots. The limited food menu offers eggs, large salads, charcuterie and cheese boards, steak tartare, duck confit, and croque Monsieur.

La Palette 43 Rue de Seine, 75006