Jonathan McNamara came from Ireland to Paris in the early 2000s, to stay a few months, and eventually stayed for good. I met Jonathan in 2006 when he was working at Le Philosophe Café in the Marais. He was full of life and could charm the pants off you with his irresistible Irish accent. Over the years, Jonathan worked at many restaurants and cafes all around Paris. His desire was to eventually open his own restaurant, and finally, last month Jonathan did. I got to know Jonathan a lot better through my friend Michele Kurlander from Chicago, who is one of his best friends.
Le Petit Relais Brasserie is on a quiet side street next to Place Felix Eboue, in the 12th arrondissement. I went there a few weeks ago on a Wednesday night and Jonathan greeted me warmly and welcomed me to the brasserie. The front bar was crowded with locals sipping aperitifs and beers and the restaurant part was for the most part quiet. I was the only American there and I could tell it was a neighborhood place. Eventually the dining room began to fill up.
Perusing the menu on a chalkboard, I was immediately drawn to the carrot curcuma soup, since it was a chilly night. It was presented in an oval, casserole dish, and double the size of most soup bowls. The presence of the curcuma permeated the soup but didn’t overwhelm it.
I asked Jonathan what he would recommend for my entrée, and he emphatically said the Palette de boeuf because it was a special cut of beef not usually served in most restaurants. The flat steak was tender and juicy and served with a pepper sauce, in a bouillon form rather than a typical thick version. Roasted potatoes with parsley were perfectly crisp and Jonathan poured me a glass of La Colombière Si vis Pacem para-Vinum, a bio- dynamic red wine from southwest France, which was a terrific accompaniment to the steak.
Last but not least, the rustic looking, apple tatin, topped with vanilla cream, was one of the best apple tatin’s I’ve ever tasted, making me want to return to Le Petit Relais just for that.
The prices are very reasonable for the high-quality food, and the three courses and the wine came out to 41€.
Jonathan’s girlfriend Alice recently left her full-time job to assist Jonathan to help run the restaurant. She was the bartender that night, filling the beer glasses and pouring the wine with a sweet smile on her face.
I wish Jonathan the best of luck, so I urge you to support him in fulfilling his dream, by going to the restaurant.
Le Petit Relais is open Tuesday to Saturday for lunch and dinner.
95 rue Claude Decaen, 75012 Metro: Daumesnil, line 8
Tel. +33182833842
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