I Prefer Paris

Messy Nessy’s Cabinet

Vanessa Grall is the voice, author, and editor of Messy Nessy Chic, a Paris blog with a cult following. She started the blog in 2010, and it has a huge fan club and following. Over the years, Grall has parlayed the blog into a mini empire, with a series of insider city guidebooks, Don’t be a Tourist in Paris, London, Copenhagen, and New York, online city guides, products, a private online club, and consulting services. The blog is a mix of quirky and obscure findings about Paris and many other things, done with humor and sometimes a wink of the eye.

Messy Nessy Chic has once again expanded its empire with the opening of a retail shop in the Latin Quarter, Messy Nessy’s Cabinet. I popped over there two weeks ago and met Vanessa, who was cool and laid back

The boutique is what you would expect, if you know the blog: quirky, offbeat, fun, interesting, and eccentric. Wood shelves are lined with books about travel, history, novels and memoirs about Paris, a trivia card game Parisian Pursuit. Other curiosity items include Seine River water in a bottle, antiques, Surreal eyeglasses, paintings, and baseball hats. There’s a fun series of mini-curiosity cabinets hung inside of empty frames.

Vanessa is usually in the shop, as she lives nearby and her office is in the back, so stop by and say Eye Prefer Paris sent you.

19 rue de Bievre, 75005

https://shop.messynessychic.com/pages/contact-us

Café of the Month- July 2024- Café Francoeur

While photographing the doors on rue Custine earlier this month, I needed a caffeine fix and stopped by the delightful Café Francoeur. The sidewalk part of the café has bold red and white striped awnings festooned with gold fringe, so Parisian. The chairs are trimmed with attractive red and black, waxed rattan and there is a narrow white tile wall with inserts of Art Nouveau, painted signs with the offerings of the café.

The inside is a dazzling mélange of golden light from yellow, fluorescent tubes, glass sconces casting a pale golden light, and a highly ornate ceiling painted in gold contrasted by highly polished, dark wood banquettes, and wide planked, wood floors. I had my usual café noisette indoors, to soak up the atmosphere. A well-dressed couple having lunch in the corner and others were enjoying a late morning coffee.

The reasonably priced and appetizing menu has French staples such as escargot, country style paté, steak tartar, steak frites, and foie gras, and a decent choice of vegetarian dishes.

Café Francoeur 129 rue Caulaincourt, 75018

https://www.thefork.fr/restaurant/cafe-francoeur-r802323/menu

 

Musée du Domaine Royal de Marly

A few weeks ago, I received an invitation to view the new exhibition at the Musée de Domaine Royal de Marly plus a tour of the grounds.

The noise levels in Paris have become unbearable in the past months, with construction for the Olympics and sirens wailing out of control, so an invitation to leave Paris for the French countryside in a serene setting was a welcome relief.

A small group of journalists and I gathered in Paris, and we were escorted by a van to the Domaine Royal de Marly, about 20 minutes away.

 

We were welcomed by Karen Chastagnol, the manager of the museum, who had a warm and cheerful manner. She served us coffee and Madeleines, while the people in the group mingled.

A few moments later she shared the history of the chateau.

Located almost equidistant between Chateau de Versailles, and Saint Germain en-Laye, the Domaine Royal de Marly was commissioned to be built in 1679 by King Louis XIV, as a hunting ground and resort to escape his duties and responsibilities at Chateau de Versailles. It became the ultimate playground for the king and only very specially, selected guests, and only between 60 and 100 guests were invited. It was a much sought after invitation by the royal court and the aristocrats, and you had to be on the A- List to be invited. Not only did the chateau serve as a hunting ground, it hosted balls, lavish dinner parties and banquets, concerts, theater, and allowed guests to gamble. One of the other important facts about the chateau was the flamboyant fountains that were powered by a very advanced and elaborate water system that pumped through 14 paddle wheels and 259 pumps that were powered by the Seine River and traveled about .35 miles by to the reservoirs to pump the water to the fountains.

King Louis XIV

The exhibition, The King’s Horses: The Marly Horses, Masterpieces of Equestrian Art, is presented in tandem with the Equestrian Olympic events in Versailles.  Focusing on the essential role the horse played in society and culture in that era, with a hundred paintings, sculptures, engravings, and drawings horse accessories, Karen led us through each room, with a very detailed and entertaining presentation and a thorough history.

After the museum exhibition, we strolled with Karen on the huge grounds of the chateau, which measure over 1200 acres. The front garden is highly manicured with topiaries and delicate, white statues on pedestals and the rest of the grounds have wide open meadows, ancient, tall trees, and a massive pond.

Even though the park grounds are open to the public, there was no more than a dozen people there. The stillness, serenity, the heavenly greenery, and the sky dotted with puff clouds, made for an exceptional morning.

The King’s Horses: The Marly Horses, Masterpieces of Equestrian Art

Through November 3, 2024

Musée du Domaine Royal de Marly

1 grille Royale- Parc de Marly, 78160 Marly- Le- Roi

https://musee-domaine-marly.fr/

Open Wednesday to Sunday, 2pm to 6pm

 

 

Doors of the Month- Montmartre/Rue Custine

Last month I gave a Montmartre tour, and it was such a nice day outside, I decided to do some exploring. The rue Caulaincourt, walking north becomes rue Custine, and as I walked down this charming street, I discovered a new set of the doors I haven’t photographed before.

 

 

Palais Royal Bench and Chair Photos 2

Thanks for all your great feedback about the first series of the Palais Royal Bench and Chair Photos from last week.

Today I am presenting series 2, with a bit of an interactive twist.

In a New Yorker Magazine style contest, I invite you to write a caption for the photos.

You may submit a one-line caption for as many of the photos as you like and email them to me at [email protected]

Please number the photo 1 to 15, using the top photo of the man sitting alone on the bench in the black shirt and white pants, as #1.

I will post the captions for each photo, next Thursday, July 28 and will credit your name next to it. (Please let me know if you don’t want me to use your name).

Good luck and I look forward to receiving your fun captions.

Palais Royal Bench and Chair Photos

In 2015, I posted a series of photos of people sitting on benches under the trees in the Palais Royal. I captured them from the back rather than from the front for a myriad reasons, including privacy. Here are links to view both series:

https://www.ipreferparis.net/2015/05/palais-royal-bench-portraits-.html

https://www.ipreferparis.net/2015/08/palais-royal-bench-portraits-2-captions.html

I returned to the gardens of the Palais Royal last week on a stupendous sunny day with puffy clouds, the bluest sky, and the perfect temperature of 72 degrees Fahrenheit. The garden was teeming with people picnicking, sunning themselves around the fountain, reading books, and just plain relaxing, appreciating the divine weather.

Feeling like a bit like a voyeur and a spy, I clandestinely started takin photos of people on the benches again but this time I took them from different angles rahter than just straight ahead as I did last time. I hid underneath trees, poking my head out at an opportune time, trying not let people find out I was photographing them, which was a tough task.

I am curious what you think of the photos and would love your feedback, so please leave comments.

I will post series 2 next Monday, with a fun interactive element. Stay tuned!

CLICK HERE to read my article about Everything You Need to Know About the Paris Olympics

I'd like to thank everyone who posted a comment to win a copy of Untold Paris last Monday. 

CLICK HERE to purchase a copy of Untold Paris: The Secret History of the City of Light.on Amazon (Kindle copies are only $4.99.) 

 

 

Book Giveaway: Untold Paris: The Secret History of the City of Light by John Baxter

 

As always, I am proud and happy to give away a new book by John Baxter, Untold Paris: The Secret History of the City of Light.

John is the most prolific writer I know. He writes at least one book every years, plus publishes lengthy and entertaining posts on his Substack platform. 

Here’s the synopsis of Untold Paris: The Secret History of the City of Light: 

How was Ernest Hemingway received by the city he wrote so much about, and where did he rub shoulders with other literary greats? Are Parisian waiters really as rude as their reputation, and why do they race each other down the street in the annual Course des Garcons de Café? And where can you find fascinating remnants of the city’s history of violent revolution, jazz music, and bold artistic movements?

From the reality of the city’s café culture and its literary luminaries, to some of its more curious landmarks, obscure events, and unusual inhabitants, Untold Paris will give the first-time visitor a vivid impression of the city and offer seasoned travelers a new vision of the city they love.

The people, the quirks, peculiarities, charms, and eccentricities; the history and secrets. Welcome to the untold Paris.

John has been kind enough to offer a free copy of Untold Paris to Eye Prefer Paris readers. 

The 12^th person who makes a comment on the link below, will receive a copy of the book. 

https://www.ipreferparis.net/2024/07/book-giveaway-untold-paris-the-secret-history-of-the-city-of-light-by-john-baxter-.html

CLICK HERE to purchase a copy of Untold Paris: The Secret History of the City of Light.on Amazon (Kindle copies are only $4.99.) 

 

Deeya Paris Boutique

A few weeks ago, Vincent my partner raved about a new, super cool clothing and accessory boutique in the Marais and he said I must check it out for Eye Prefer Paris.

Vincent is pretty much always on the money when he suggests things for me to do, and he was absolutely right this time

Deeya Paris is a fantastic boutique celebrating the craftsman and artisans of India, featuring clothing, accessories, jewelry, and home design. The shop bursts with alive colors, great designs, and a cool vibe. Racks and shelves are chock full of winning, eye popping, and appealing items which make you want to buy everything in the shop.

I spoke with one of the owners, Matthieu Foss, who co-owns the boutique with his wife Marielou, and he shared with me that the boutique stocks only merchandise produced in India, with about 15 Indian designers. Many of the clothing and accessories have hand embroidery or hand sewing on them.

In the rear of the boutique is a gallery specializing photos of Indian photographers and the current show has black and white photos of an Art Deco movie theater.

Matthieu and Marielou have pooled their talents from their former careers to open Deeya.

Marielou, originally from Bombay, worked closely with Karl Lagerfeld at Chanel for 15 years and in 2017 she started working with environmentally conscious labels and promoting Indian craftsmen.

Matthieu was one of the founders of Paris Photo and moved to Mumbai in 2005 to open the first photo gallery in the city. Now back in Paris, Matthieu continues promote Indian culture involving photographs, fashion, and design.

21 rue du Bourg Tibourg, 75004 https://deeyaparis.com/collections/all

Matthieu Foss

Lost in Frenchlation Olympic Programming

My friend Manon Kerjean runs the wonderful organization, Lost in Frenchlation, which screens current and classic French films with English subtitles. I’ve seen many great films in the past seven years and sometimes they have the directors and actors present at the screenings for a Q & A after the films are screened. Last she had Camille Cottin, from the hit series Call My Agent, at a screening for a film she was in.

Lost in Frenchlation is presenting a special Olympic program in July and August with screenings of Olympic related films and some great classic French films. The slate includes Amelie, The Last Metro, L’Esprit Coubertin, Anatomy of a Fall, and Claire’s Knee.

CLICK HERE to find more info and the scheduled films.