I Prefer Paris

Paolo Roversi at Dover Street Market

Photographer Paolo Roversi is having quite a year in Paris. 

On March 26, the Palais Galliera opened a major retrospective of Roversi, focusing on his incredible career of 40+ years with 140 astonishing images of his fashion and beauty photos. Now there’s a second tribute to Roversi in Paris. 

Last week the Dover Street Market opened in the former, 17^th century palace of Madame Sevigne. The new space is much more than another fashion shop in the Marais; it not only houses fashion and accessory collections of upcoming, young creators, it’s also a cultural center with live events and a gallery space. 

Walking through the cobblestone courtyard other day, I was stunned by the striking, columns adorned with Roversi’s photos. The light wood columns were designed by Rei Kawakubo, the founder of the iconic Comme des Garcons label and she also designed the minimalist interiors of the building. 

Another wonderful surprise was a beautifully curated exhibit of Roversi’s work on the lower level of the cultural center. The photographs are displayed on a cylinder-shaped wall in a dark room with just the photos illuminated. 

Dover Street Market

35-37 rue des Francs Bourgeois, 75003

https://www.doverstreetmarketparis.com/

Athanase Gallery

I have passed an intriguing shop, Athanase Gribaudo Vandamme, just outside the Galerie Vivienne, piled high with dusty, old books and vintage maps, numerous times, but I never stepped inside. 

Last week I passed the Athanase Gribaudo Vandamme again, and I hardly recognized it; gone were the books and in its place was, floor to ceiling wood cases, neatly stacked with vintage engravings, with each box specifically marked.In the center, there’s racks of faux marble portfolios with ancient maps and posters. I didn’t have much time, but I spent a few minutes thumbing through the boxes of engravings with glee and wonderment, also delighted by some of the categories tagged on the outside: birds, fruit, reptiles, trains, insects, and furniture. Another part of the shop has draws filled with engravings from all 96 departments in France. There is also a selection of old globes. 

I wondered where all the books went, and when I looked down, there they were, encased in the glass floor below me. Next time I visit, I have to leave at least a couple of hours, so I can browse through every rack and shelf. 

Athanase Gribaudo Vandamme

6 Galerie Vivienne, 75002

Irises at Monet Gardens, Giverny

I did a tour of Monet’s gardens and house in Giverny yesterday, and walking through the rows of gorgeous, May flowers, the irises were in full bloom. The stunning colors of deep purple, lavender, dark red, and two-tone ones with combinations of purple and pale pink, and pale blue and purple, stood out so much, that they demanded having photos taken of them. 

The Best Crepes in Paris: Maison Bretonne

I’ve eaten at creperies all over Paris, from the sixteenth arrondissement to the third to the fourth to the fourteenth and have rarely been disappointed. My top favorites, Briezh and La Ciderie du Marais have been my go-to places for crepes up until now, serving the authentic Brittany style galettes and sweet crepes with hard or sparkling apple cider. 

Last week I walked by a new creperie, Maison Bretonne, just a few doors from my house, on rue de Rivoli. The menu looked appealing and a few days later I went for lunch. 

The pleasant dining room had paintings of the Brittany landscape with cutesy artifacts on shelves. There was a formule of a savory galette and a crepe for dessert for 17.90 which appeared to be a good deal. Apple cider is a must with galettes, and I had a crisp, cold cider which was delicious and refreshing. My mammoth sized galette was filled with cheese, ham, and sauteed leeks. The taste was beyond any galette I have ever had, crispy and buttery on the outside, and the leeks melted in my mouth. As I kept eating it, I knew this was the best galette I have ever eaten. Stuffed, I had to make room for my crepe, and had to pace myself. 

A few minutes later the crepe arrived with a gorgeous mound of apple compote on top and drizzled with salted butter caramel. To say I was in dessert heaven is an understatement. Perhaps they were that good because the ingredients are organic and locally sourced. 

Good news for gluten sensitive or intolerant people, the galettes are made with buckwheat flour. 

What I also liked about Maison Bretonne, was the unusual flavor combination I’ve never seen before, including asparagus and fresh peas, smoked trout with potatoes and dill, and smoked shiitake mushrooms with bacon bits. The crepes were even more enticing with flavors such as pears poached in apple cider with chocolate ganache, rhubarb with a butter biscuit and rhubarb ice cream, and lemon curd with Italian meringue. 

In case I wasn’t overwhelmed enough by the crepe menu, Maison Bretonne has other Brittany specialties on the menu including sardine rillettes, stuffed artichokes, and a cheese plate with Brittany cheeses. 

5 rue de Rivoli, 75004

TFX (Taxes for Expats)- Useful Service for U.S. Expats Filing Taxes

TFX (Taxes for Expats)  is an organization that does tax preparation abroad for U.S. expats. For the last ten years TFX (Taxes for Expats) has been filing my taxes and their staff is very well organized and efficient, and they usually answer my emails within a day. The online filing system is easy to follow. 

TFX (Taxes for Expats) is a top-rated expat tax consultant  with over 4,000 positive reviews. 

Tax forms for U.S. expats are due by June 15, so don’t delay your filing. TFX can also file an extension for a reasonable fee in case you can’t meet the deadline. 

Besides filing taxes also TFX (Taxes for Expats) offers alternative services including non-resident tax returns, foreign bank reporting, tax planning, and IRS representation. 

You can schedule a 30-minute free, phone consultation on TFX (Taxes for Expats). 

Prices start at $400 for their core tax return plan and $500 for their Premier service.  

TFX (Taxes for Expats) has just launched a new service for business clients https://tfx.tax/

Subscriber Contest

Many of you tell me you forward my Eye Prefer Paris posts to your friends, relatives, etc. which I really appreciate. I would like to add more subscribers, so I can grow my blog and I am starting a fun new contest. 

Whoever signs up the most subscribers, will win a special prize: a gorgeous 11x14 inch photo print of Paris personally selected by me.

The second prize is a package of 9 Eye Prefer Paris door photos. 

Here’s how to sign people up. 

1.     Click on this link https://www.ipreferparis.net

2.     On the right-hand side, where it says Never Miss a Post & Subscribe, enter a first name and an email address. 

3.     The person who you subscribe will receive a confirmation email from Feedblitz and they must click on that link to confirm their subscription. 

4.     Email me @ [email protected] and tell me how many people you subscribed. 

The contest starts today May 6 and will end May 16, when I will post the winners names. Best of luck and I look forward to all the new subscribers. 

May 2024 Eye Need to Do’s: Ellsworth Kelly, Fete du Pain, Matisse, and Saint Germain Jazz Festival

Ellsworth Kelly- Shapes and Colors, 1949-2015

One of the great 20^th century American artists, Ellsworth Kelly, on the centennial year of his birth, is being celebrated with a mammoth exhibition. Covering the most significant years of his prolific output, 1949-2015, the exhibition has 100 works including paintings and sculptures, as well as drawings, collages, and photographs. 

May 4 to September 9, 2024

Fondation Louis Vuitton 

https://www.fondationlouisvuitton.fr/en/events/ellsworth-kelly-shapes-and-colors-1949-2015

Matisse: The Red Studio 

If you go to see the Ellsworth Kelly show mentioned above, make you sure you also check out the Matisse: The Red Studio exhibition. The show focuses on the creation of masterpiece painting of the Red Studio, which has been lent by MOMA in New York. 

May 4 to September 9, 2024

Fondation Louis Vuitton 

https://www.fondationlouisvuitton.fr/en/events/matisse-the-red-studio

La Fete du Pain 2024

Attention all bread lovers: Please drop everything you are doing and come to Paris for La Fete du Pain, from May 7 to May 16. Under big white tents in the plaza in front of Notre Dame, some of the best bakers in Franceset up shop, and make freshly baked baguettes, croissants, rolls,  and pain au chocolat’s for 9 days. Be patient, as almost all of Paris lines up for these special treats. It’s also where the annual prize for the best baguette in Paris will be announced.

May 7 to May 16 Parvis Notre Dame, 75004

https://www.sortiraparis.com/en/news/in-paris/articles/40952-la-fete-du-pain-2024-in-paris-artisan-bakers-return-to-the-notre-dame-forecourt

 Saint Germain Jazz Festival 2024

The impressive lineup of musicians for the 24^th Saint Germain Jazz Festival 2024 include Stacey Kent and her trio, Kareen Guiock Thuram interpreting the music of Nina Simone, Fred Hirsch Piano Solo, and the Emile Parisien Quartet.

May 13-20 https://festivaljazzsaintgermainparis.com/home/