I Prefer Paris

Door(s) of the Month September 2021: Boulevard Malesherbes

Last month I was on my way to the flea market in a van with my tour clients and we drove up Boulevard Malesherbes. I was slightly familiar with Boulevard Malesherbes from the southern part of it is in the 8^th arrondissement near Place Madeleine. However, I didn’t realize it extended all the way to the 17^th arrondissement and to the edge of Paris. 

A few days later I returned to Boulevard Malesherbes, starting at the most northern part in the 17^th arrondissement and there was a bevy of new doors I hadn’t seen before. In fact there were so many wonderful ones, I am dividing them up into two posts, one this month, and one in October. I included a few interesting ones from the side streets off of Boulevard Malesherbes. 

This is the perfect occasion to let you know I am launching a new set of Eye Prefer Paris Postcards with images of my doors in the coming weeks, stay tuned. 

Double Flower Power: Florae-Van Cleef and Arpels & Damien Hirst -Cherry Blossoms

The summer flowers in Paris have recently faded away but beautiful blooms can still be savored in two exhibitions this fall. 

In the elegant courtyard of Hôtel d’Évreux in Place Vendôme, is the Van Cleef and Arpels show Florae. Japanese photographer Mika Ninagawa has created a kaleidoscope of highly saturated images of flowers projected on mirrored panels in a darkened, maze-like setting. In between the panels are one-hundred vintage and present-day pieces of Van Cleef jewelry floating in glass vitrines. The effect is dazzling but be warned, walk prudently because it’s very easy to bump into the glass walls because of the mirrors and reflections. 

Admission is free of charge, but you must make reservations in advance. 

Date: Until November 14, 2021 https://www.weezevent.com/florae-exhibition

On the Left Bank at the Fondation Cartier you can experience the joy of cherry blossoms in a new series of paintings by Damien Hirst. Mostly known as the British bad boy of installation art in in the 1990s and 2000s, Hirst has returned to painting by creating 107 large scale canvases of cherry blossoms with 30 of them on display at the Fondation Cartier. The high glass walls of the museum streaming in natural light are the perfect setting for the first museum exhibition Hirst has ever had in France, which is surprising. 

Date: Until January 2, 2022 

Tickets must be ordered online https://www.fondationcartier.com/en/exhibitions/damien-hirst

Staying in Paris: Hotel vs. Apartment

Tour clients and my blog readers frequently ask my advice about whether they should stay in a hotel or rent an apartment or AirBNB. My answer is, if you are staying three nights or less, I think a hotel is more convenient, as you could just check in and out without hassle and save precious time. 

 However, if they are staying three nights or longer, I highly recommend renting an apartment for several reasons. First, you get much more bang for your buck in terms of size and cost. Most three and four star hotels in Paris have well-appointed but small rooms, measuring 150 square feet or even less, the size of a small bedroom.  For the same amount of money or usually even less, you can get an apartment of at least 300 square feet. Another advantage of renting an apartment is there’s a kitchen, so you don’t have to eat all your meals out. You can go to your local boulangerie and get fresh baked croissants and warm baguettes just out of the oven for a fraction of what a hotel would charge, plus you can lounge over a long breakfast. Also, if you have toured and walked all day and feel too tired at night to sit in a restaurant for two plus hours, you can pick up cheeses, charcuterie, and a bottle of wine at your local gourmet shop, and relax. Apartment rentals are also great when traveling with children.

 I have had many clients stay in great apartments and Air Bnbs and some that are truly unique. I had a large family a few years ago that were staying in a super cool houseboat docked on the Seine. It also had great amenities such as an ice machine, air conditioning, jacuzzi, and three bedrooms. I also had clients stay in the most luxurious apartments with tons of rooms and gorgeously decorated, paying the same or less than a single room at a five-star hotel. Many of the high end or luxury rentals come with a concierge service included in the price and provide services such as arranging museum and event tickets, day trips, restaurant reservations, bringing in a private chef to cook dinner, and tour guides. They can also stock the refrigerator and cupboards with food when you arrive and replenish during your stay. 

 The other advantage about staying in an apartment is you can choose a more residential neighborhood and live like a real Parisian. If you decide to rent an apartment in Paris, I recommend the following areas for an authentic Paris living experience; the Marais, the Latin Quarter, Saint Germain des Pres, Montmartre and/or zip codes 75009, 75016, and 75002. 

 Another important thing to inquire about when you rent an apartment is the upkeep, condition, and cleanliness, which is not always easy to detect by the photos, so it’s best to read the customer reviews and comments. Many busy apartment owners will use Airbnb management services to manage their listing which includes cleaning services, upkeep, and appropriate pricing. 

 Most rentals will include a personal list from the owner of nearby restaurants, bars, shops, conveniences, services, and practical tips for your stay which can sometimes be invaluable.  

Chantilly- Le Rocher des Tresors

Coming home in June from New York, I met a charming young man, Nico Nancel, who lives in Paris, and is half-American and half-French. We became fast friends and met a few times for coffee. He invited me to an event he was producing, Le Rocher des Tresors in Chantilly. The show is the first time they have had a projection on the chateau, which is a big deal. 

The dates of the event were last weekend, and I went on Sunday night. It was a crisp night, with the threat of rain, but the rain gods held out and they didn’t rain on the Chantilly parade. The event was well organized, and it took just a few minutes to check in with my ticket, Covid test, and security. I got a great seat, courtesy of Nico, with a front and center view of the chateau already bathed in light. The crowd was raring to go and at 9:45 promptly, the lights went out, and as Bugs Bunny once said, “On with the show!” 

The spectacle was divided into eight acts and it weaves a tale of mystery and intrigue with stunning imagery and a grand, sweeping musical score. I have seen over a dozen illuminations events like this in Avignon, Nancy, on Notre Dame in Paris, on the Chartres Cathedral, and I have to say this one trumped them all, and one of the best I’ve ever experienced. Le Rocher des Tresors brought the animation and the excitement to a whole new, more sophisticated level. It also included fireworks in parts of the show, which again, brought it to another level. At the end I was on my feet, yelling bravo. 

Even though you missed it this year, the good news is there’s going to be part two next year of Le Rocher des Tresors, which should not be missed, so make your plans soon. 

I stayed at the wonderful Auberge du Jeu de Paume Hotel, a must when you go to Chantilly. I have stayed several times in this Relais&Chateaux gem, and it never disappoints. I had a spacious room, accented with lovely Toile de Jouy on the headboard and wall paper, a super comfortable king size bed, and fragrant toiletries from Rituals. Auberge du Jeu de Paume has a new chef, Anthony Denon, who formerly worked at Alain Ducasse. I had a relaxing dinner in the luxuriously appointed dining room before the show at Le Jardin d’Hiver, and my starter of sea bass tartare with fresh figs and almonds was a refreshing delight, followed by a intensely flavored lamb confit with caramelized eggplant and middle eastern spices. The three- course menu is only 56€ per person, and at lunch time during the week, they have a steal of a deal, two-courses for only 25€ per person. 

Auberge du Jeu de Paume Hotel will be offering a special package for Le Rocher des Tresors next year, so stay tuned here for further info. 

https://aubergedujeudepaumechantilly.fr/en/ 

Swans and Boats on the Seine

While looking for boats to photograph, I came across a flock of swans floating on the Seine earlier this month. I had seen a few swans individually here and there on the sides of the Seine, but I had never seen a full flock like this before. 

Do you have some favorites here? 

If you would like a photo print of any of these images below is a size and price list. Please email me at [email protected] to order. 

·   11 X 14 inches Price $95 

·    16 X 20 inches Price $125 

·   20x30 inches Price $175

·    Shipping in the U. S. by U.S. Mail is $13 per order 

·    Photos are printed Fuji Archival paper 

Arc De Triomphe Wrapped by Christo

There’s been high anticipation for the unveiling of the Arc De Triomphe Wrapped by Christo, as 1200 workers have been working non-stop, seven days a week for the last month for it to open on time for September 18. 

I went twice, first on Friday night, when it was dramatically bathed in white light, and early on Saturday morning, when the pleated fabric contrasted with the sharp red cord stood out against the combination of clouds and patches of blue sky. The image was quite striking. 

Although the wrapping of the Arc De Triomphe is a triumph, it’s bittersweet because Christo and his wife Jeanne-Claude are not here to witness their final project being realized after 60 years. It wasn’t their first foray into Paris; in 1985 the Pont Neuf and 44 lamp posts were covered in 450,000 square feet in a neutral color fabric for two weeks, attracting three million viewers. 

The arch is wrapped in 270,000 square feet of silver and blue shimmery fabric, polypropylene, which is recyclable and then tied with almost two miles of shiny red cord. 

I noticed that the volunteers were wearing cool uniforms of black, pleated pants, with a bright blue vest and a red belt and accessories. I asked one of them about the outfit, and she said it was designed by Issaye Miyake who was friends with Christo. At one point the volunteer asked me if I would like a piece of the wrapping material, and she handed me a square of fabric, blue on one side, silver on the other. It’s wonderful keepsake to mark the occasion and I have already archived it. 

One of things I most admire and appreciate about Christo’s work is that it’s created for the public. I vividly remember attending the Central Park Gates Project in February of 2005, six months before I moved to Paris. Even though it was a freezing, dreary day, I was uplifted by a sense of pride and community, as New Yorkers shared a moment of wonder and awe simultaneously at the sheer magnitude of the thousands of orange banners enveloping the park. It also came at the right moment, as New York was finally healing from the horror of 9/11.  As I watched the jubilant crowd this morning lining up to cross the Place Etoile to view the arch, I felt the same sense pride and community as I did in New York. After the 18-month scourge and fatigue of Covid, we were able to safely gather and joyously celebrate the stunning results of Christo and Jeanne Claude's swan song. 

Arc De Triomphe Wrapped by Christo is up until October 3. 

Domaine de Primard

I’ve hardly taken a day off this summer but two weeks ago I took a mini break overnight and traveled to Normandy. I was invited to experience the newly opened Domaine de Primard, a five-star hotel and spa just an hour from Paris by train. 

Domaine de Primard is part of a small chain of luxury hotels under the banner of Les Domaines de Fontenille. I had the fortunate experience of visiting Domaine de Fontenille, a vineyard and hotel in the Luberon in Provence last June and enjoyed a fabulous dinner on their terrace. 

I arrived at Domaine de Primard at about 1:30pm at the Bueill train station and waiting on the platform was Diego, a hotel employee who had a sign with my name on it. He escorted me into a van and whisked me to the hotel, which was a short, five-minute ride. As we approached the grounds he shared about the history of the property. The house and the grounds were originally owned by Catherine Deneuve and sits on a 100 acre parcel of bucolic land. After Diego dropped me off just at the entrance, I was once again personally escorted to a golf cart and given a tour of the grounds. We passed a potager (vegetable garden), green meadows, a horse grazing field, a brook, and other picturesque sites before we arrived at the hotel. A former 18^th century chateau, the handsome  limestone building has tall windows framed in periwinkle and vines clinging to the entranceway. A round, stone pond with just a hint of water lilies floating in it is encased in a meticulous box hedge. 

My room was on the second floor with a calming view of the moat and the gardens. It had high ceilings and the ceiling fixtures are a set of three, mismatched quirky lanterns with colored paper mâché lampshades. The room was painted in a soothing shade of pale celadon and had a king size bed covered in crisp, white sheets and duvet cover.  A spacious bathroom has a free-standing bathtub and separate shower room with a rain shower nozzle. 

I was famished, as it was way past my regular feeding time, so I headed straight to the restaurant after checking in. The restaurant is located in a separate building from the main hotel, and I walked through a lovely, pebbled garden path with topiaries, and a greenhouse converted into a tearoom. It was a warm sunny day, and the lunch service was outdoors on the lawn with white canvas umbrellas hovering over mint green metal tables and rattan and green metal chairs, a country French setting straight out of a home design magazine. 

The appetizer, a ginormous artichoke hollowed out and filled with a green bean salad with toasted hazelnuts dressed in vinaigrette, was the perfect, refreshing dish for the weather. Roasted chicken served in a cast iron, Staub pot was tender and juicy and served with the smoothest, most buttery mashed potatoes you can imagine. I was so stuffed by the generous portions, I didn’t have room for dessert. For those of you who know me well, I know that is quite a shock. However, I did make up for it at dinner, and had a delicious dessert of warm, roasted Mirabelle plums served with vanilla ice cream.

I had been dreaming all summer of swimming in a pool and relaxing on a chaise lounge reading a book. I fulfilled that dream in spades at the pool of Domaine de Primard and it was heaven. I was so relaxed on the cushy chaise, I fell asleep and had a good, much needed nap. 

After my nap I went back to my room and stood under the rain showerhead for an invigorating shower. The toiletries by Susanne Kaufmann, a luxury brand spa brand from Austria, included glycerin soap and shampoo scented with flowers and alpine herbs. 

I now smelled like a bouquet of flowers (a Good Thing, as Martha Stewart would say) and I took a stroll around the hotel and gardens. At 4pm, the hotel puts out a buffet of tea cakes and pastries such as madeleines and loaf cakes along with tea and coffee service. I had a slice of lemon cake and a chocolate madeleine with espresso and enjoyed them on a table on the back lawn that faced a stream with a view of canoes and kayaks floating on the deep green water. I discovered a noisy gaggle of geese and ducks on a patch of lawn, making their way to the water in the stone moats surrounding the hotel and then I walked through the potager, smelling the fresh herbs. 

I slept well that night and the next morning I had an appointment for a massage. My masseur, Gilles Szafirko, was voted the best hands of 2017 from the Label Spas of France during the French Massage Championship, and hands down (oops! sorry for the pun) they should extend that title to 2021 because his magic hands did wonders to my body. Feeling like a limp noodle after my massage I headed back to the pool to take a last swim and a little lounge time before I had to board my early afternoon train back to Paris. I could have stayed all week if they let me but alas, I had to return home so I could write this blog. 

One of the good things about Domaine de Primard is that you can visit for the day. You can come for lunch, stroll the grounds, and book a spa treatment. The hotel will pick you up and return you to the train station without charge even if you are coming for the day. 

https://www.lesdomainesdefontenille.com/en/domainedeprimard.html

the mushroom room 

 

 

 

Tribute to Christo and Jeanne Claude

In celebration of the upcoming Christo installation on the Arc de Triomphe, I am dedicating this post to Christo and his wife Jeanne-Claude, who together created a worldwide art movement. 

As I mentioned a few times before, I regularly take a power walk along the Seine. Last week I noticed an installation of a group of billboards commemorating the various art installations Christo and Jeanne Claude had created over many decades. After looking through them, I was astonished by their prodigious output and feats of marvel, from the orange gates in Central Park (I was there), to the blue umbrellas in the U. S and Japan, to the draping of the Pont Neuf in Paris, to the pink fabric circles surrounding the Key Biscayne Islands in Florida, to the orange fabric colored walkway floating on a lake in Italy. 

Bravo to Christo and Jeanne-Claude and Iam a little sad they aren’t alive to see this longtime project finally come to fruition.

I will post photos of the Arc de Triomphe wrapping next week. 

Paris Blue, A New Memoir by Julie Scolnik

I am excited about having my new friend, Julie Scolnik, an American flutist, share this news about her new book, which is a love letter to Paris. Please welcome Julie to Eye Prefer Paris and read her personal message to you below. I will be posting a give-away of Paris Blue on October 5, the day the book is released. 

Hello All!

Thank you to Richard for letting me share this with you! 

I have been working on a memoir, Paris Blue, on and off for forty years. It is a story that has lingered in the corridors of my psyche, and I always knew that one day I would have to tell it. 

I don’t need to tell you how thrilled and moved I am that it will be published by Koehler Books on October 5, and is now available for pre-order  on Amazon,  Barnes and Noble, and through all independent booksellers.  All info at www.JulieScolnik.com. Here is a 1-minute book trailer.

PARIS, 1976: Twenty-year-old American student Julie Scolnik had just arrived in the City of Light to study the flute when, from across a sea of faces in the chorus of the Orchestre de Paris, she is drawn to Luc, a striking (married) French lawyer in the bass section.  This moving tale of an ebullient young American and a reserved Frenchman will transport readers to the cafés, streets, and concert halls of Paris in the late seventies, and, spanning three decades, evolves from deep romance to sudden heartbreak, and finally to a lifelong quest for answers to release hidden immutable grief.

Against a magical backdrop of Paris and classical music, Paris Blue is true fairy-tale memoir (with a dark underbelly) about the tenacious grip of first love. 

A few of the endorsements I received from other authors:

“Not every true story is like a good novel, but this one is. Not every memoir of first love has a satisfying ending, but this one does. The confluence of first love with becoming an artist makes this memoir special.” John Irving

“Julie Scolnik’s beautiful page turner of a memoir captures with beauty and rare insight the power of music, words, and Paris to drive love to madness. To read her pitch perfect writing is to relive the exhilarations and vulnerabilities of one’s twenties.” — Judith Coffin, author of Sex, Love, and Letters: Writing Simone de Beauvoir

"Paris Blue gives melody to our common fancy: that Paris is where all great romances play out. Julie Scolnik’s memoir, recalling for us the myopia of innocence, returns us to our own first loves while establishing itself as a riveting tale both unique and universal.”   —Gregory Maguire, novelist, and author of Wicked

“Paris Blue, Julie Scolnik’s memoir of first love in Paris, is written with the tender romanticism of Wordsworth and the devastating realism of Flaubert. Her lyrical writing about music transforms these discordant halves into a compelling whole, creating a dazzling love letter to a life lived in music.” Linda Katherine Cutting, author of  Memory Slips

“The haunting impact of our first true and deep love stays with us the remainder of our lives, and all of us struggle in some way to put those emotions - the exultation, the revelries of passion and belonging, and the ultimate scars of loss - into a workable context.  This book explores the process, including the barriers, the relapses and the ultimate conclusion that one's life needs to find its own forms.”  Greg Fields, author of Arc of the Comet and Through the Waters and the Wild

"Paris Blue could speak to anyone who's ever yearned for closure that never came. But Julie Scolnik's memoir doesn't simply try to make sense of a bewildering romance; through telling the story she manages to bless the past, in all its complexity, while giving herself fully to the present. - Leah Hager Cohen, author of Strangers and Cousins and The Grief of Others

“Nothing burns hotter than young love, and Julie Scolnik captures that singular fervor in ‘Paris Blue.’ But her memoir is more than that: it’s a deeply felt, bittersweet reflection on how youthful passion changes you and clings to you, forever.”  Howard Reich, author “The Art of Inventing Hope: Intimate Conversations with Elie Wiesel”

Julie Scolnik's memoir, Paris Blue, brings full spectrum color to a love affair with Paris, music, and a man whose limited vision couldn't keep her from shining. Filled with sensuousness, sound, and light, as well as the hard edge of truth, this story of first love grips the reader tight.  —Jennifer Rosner, author of The Yellow Bird Sings  

Paris Rooftop Views: La Samaritaine, Hotel Le Fouquets, and Institut du Monde Arabe

Since you left so many positive comments and glowing reviews of my first Paris Rooftop Views blog from last month, I am bringing you a new series today. 

Today I present a potpourri. First are the views from the fabulous suites at the Hôtel Barrière Le Fouquet's Paris, just off the Champs Elysées, that I had the privilege of viewing last month on a tour of the gorgeous hotel suites. The views were from the top floors of the hotel which faced north on to the Champs Elysees and beyond and west with views of the Arc de Triomphe. I also got some cool shots from the oval windows decorating the suites. 

The second series is from the top floor of the newly reopened, La Samaritaine department store which had views of the glorious flying buttresses and architecture of the 15^th century gothic church. 

Last but not least, are the views from a more obscure place. Institut du Monde Arabe is a museum dedicated to the culture and art of the various Arab nations and is situated on the Seine River in the fifth arrondissement by the Pont de Sully. The open rooftop on the ninth floor has terrific views, facing north and west, of Notre Dame, the Seine, and the rooftops of the Ile Saint Louis. 

Two photos above-Saint Germain- l’Auexerrois