First it was the bistro that made a comeback in the form of the neo-bistro, then the bouillon restaurant made a splashy return, and now the brasserie is ripe for a return.
Brasserie Bellanger is a perfect example of a classic French institution being reborn in a fresh, relevant way.
Located in a gritty part of the 10th arrondissement near Gard du Nord, Brasserie Bellanger, we arrived at 7:30PM and the restaurant was already buzzing. The black and white tile floor and the well-lit bar gave a lighter ambiance than the usual dark wood and brass of most brasseries.
The menu was straight forward with a selection of hams, sausages, and dried beef, then a short list of 6 entrees including leeks vinaigrette and oeuf mayo, followed by a list of classiques such as steak frites, croque Monsieur, and steak tartar. What was most interesting on the meat heavy menu was an offering a vegan plate.
It was a chilly, damp night and a soup of butternut squash and corn kernels with crunchy croutons sprinkled on top had a thick, smooth texture warmed our insides well.
Vincent had a steamed cod fish with broccoli and pine nuts, simply prepared but with much flavor and I had crispy poitrine de porc (pork belly) with mashed potatoes with chunks of potatoes (not the usual smooth puree) and a corn and red pepper relish.
We were getting quite full from the more than ample portions, so Vincent and I shared a Paris Brest, another classic, well executed with a light choux and coffee cream filling and a sprinkling of roasted hazelnuts to give a little more oomph.
The thing I liked about Brasserie Bellanger was its lack of pretentiousness which permeates so much of the Paris restaurant scene with hipsters and trendiness. Instead Brasserie Bellanger is just a fun, lively place with solid, unsurprising (that’s a good thing!) food at honest prices (all dishes are under 20€ except for the home cooked dish of the day), and easy service, where people gather to have a good time without too much fuss.
Brasserie Bellanger
140 Rue du Faubourg Poissonnière, 75010
Open for lunch and dinner, 7 days
LINKS EYE LIKE
A great story about the 100th Anniversary of Shakespeare and Company in The Guardian
A story about the writer Colette's house in Burgundy in the N.Y. Times
You have to love a place that lets a pooch like this take center stage
In my latest A Bite of Paris video, I've taken a break from food tasting to visit my friend Jessica at La Vaissellerie, my favorite tabletop, dish ware, and kitchen shop, located in the Marais.
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gGfIOVl7188&feature=youtu.be
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