In 1855 the Parisian butcher Pierre Louis Duval proposed a simple dish of meat immersed in bouillon to serve to the workers in the market place and the bouillon restaurant was born. By 1900 there were over 250 bouillons just in Paris. The formula was simple; they served basic, French favorites at reasonable prices in cavernous, lively dining rooms with a quick turnover. They were the first instance of chain restaurants in France, much like cafeterias in the U.S. in the early to mid 1900s.
Paris bouillons all but disappeared in the late 1900s/early 2000s, as the Parisian palate became more sophisticated, with nouvelle cuisine making its culinary mark among other new food trends. Classic French plates like leeks vinaigrette, Blanquette de veau, rabbit paté, oeufs durs mayonnaise, and tete de veau disappeared from the menu, replaced with more refined dishes.
In recent years, the culinary pendulum has swung back to the classics with the opening of Bouillon Pigalle, the first new bouillon to debut in almost a century. Following the same formula of yesteryear, Bouillon Pigalle serves tried and true French dishes, with a three-course meal in the 20€ price range. Bouillon Pigalle is a run away hit, with lines snaking over a block long at certain times of the day and night. Perhaps Parisians were craving hearty meals at lower prices instead of trendy small plates menus costing 30€ or more, leaving them still hungry after dinner.
Bouillon Julien originally opened in 1906, becoming one of the most beautiful restaurants in Paris. Designed by French architect Edouard Fournier in the height of the Art Nouveau design craze, it epitomized the decorative style. The top artisans of the period created stunning architectural details; Armand Segaud created the peacock panels, Louis Majorelle designed the mahogany bar, and the stained glass ceiling was designed by Charles Buffet, father of painter Bernard Buffet. In recent years Bouillon Julien was turned into a high price brasserie, a little bit out of place on a street filled with thrifty Turkish restaurants and casual cafes.
In 2018, Julien changed owners and the name Bouillon Julien was restored, along with the menu. The interior received a major renovation by British designer John Whelan, who not only faithfully restored it, he also repainted it sea green, the original wall color before it turned to tobacco color from the decades of cigarette smoke.
I recently went to Bouillon Julien for lunch with a friend. While perusing the appealing menu, I became distracted by the magnificent interior. I made my menu choices quickly and bolted to take photos before our food was served.
For our entrée, I had the smoked herring with potatoes, drizzled with oil. The strong flavor of the herring was softened with the smooth, soft potatoes. My friend had leeks vinaigrette, served with a not too rich Hollandaise and a smattering of hazelnuts. For my plat, I went for a true classic, lamb with spring vegetables in tangy brown gravy. The pearl onions were the sweet touch of the dish along with the peas. We shared rice pudding, a white disc floating on a pool of salted butter caramel, which was way too sweet.
Portions were a decent size, enough to satisfy but not too filling.
Prices couldn’t be more reasonable, (my three-course lunch was less than 23€ and some of my dishes were on the expensive side of the menu. My friend’s leek dish was 3€), especially because you are dining in one of the most beautiful restaurants in Paris.
Bouillon Julien
16 rue du Faubourg Saint-Denis, 75110
Metro: Strasbourg-Saint Denis or Bonne Nouvelle
https://www.bouillon-julien.com/
Price Reduction: August in Paris- My Marais Apartment for Rent August 16 to August 28
I am renting my Marais loft from August 16 to August 29 (Dates are flexible). Contrary to popular myth that Paris is closed in August, most shops, restaurants, and attractions are open in Paris, especially in the Marais. The weather is usually beautiful, temperatures in the high 70s to low 80s Fahrenheit during the day, dropping into the mid 60s at night. In case in gets warmer, I have an air conditioner in the bedroom and a large fan in the living area.
Minimum rental period is 7 days/one week, price 1400€ for 7 days/one week, 1800€ for 10 days
Conveniently located by the Saint Paul metro, in the heart of the Marais, the apartment is a spacious one-bedroom 750 sq. ft. loft with 12 ft. ceilings, decorated in chic Mid-Century Modern furniture and sleeps two people in a Queen size bed. Amenities include washer/dryer, 16" flat screen TV, dishwasher, internet connection/Wifi and free long distance calls to the U.S. The apartment is located on the second floor with a large elevator
Please email me at [email protected] if you are interested.
If you love salted butter caramels, please watch my newest A Bite of Paris video about Henri Le Roux, the man who actually invented the salted butter caramel.
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I love Julien. I was lucky to have my 60th birthday celebration dinner in the restaurant. It is a beautiful space with the stained glass windows and the food was amazing. Thank you for reviewing it again.
Posted by: Tracey Howard | July 09, 2019 at 05:06 PM