I Prefer Paris

Trip to Niort and Alexandra Palace Hotel

Last July I was invited to stay at two new chateaus in the Loire that were converted into luxury hotels, Chateau de Beauvois and Chateau Prieuré. It was a wonderful experience and earlier this month I was happy to receive an invitation to stay in their newest hotel, Alexandra Palace located in the Deux Sevres region in western France. 

Zaya S. Younan is the Chairman & CEO of La Grande Maison Younan Collection, which is a collection of former historic chateaus that have been transformed into four and five-star hotels. 

My friend from Chicago, Michele Kurlander, who writes for Bonjour Paris, joined me for this sojourn. 

We took the train from Paris and arrived in Niort about two and a half hours later. A 25-minute taxi ride to the hotel took us through winding roads with wheat fields with cylinder shaped hay bales and rows of sunflowers at their peak. 

Arriving at the hotel, there were expansive swaths of open fields and forest along with a sprawling golf course, Le Petit Chene. In front of us stood a handsome building made of brick and limestone encapsulated by immaculate manicured lawns and gardens with cone shaped topiaries. 

My room was a study in ornate luxury with damask drapes trimmed with tassels, a tufted headboard in subdued neutrals,  crystal chandeliers and sconces, and a white marble bathroom suite.Settling in the room, I took a long hot shower with the rainfall shower head and took a nap on the super comfy bed with feather pillows, waking up to the scenenic green golf course grounds outside my window. A nice amenity was a bottle of Chateau La Croix Younan red wine produced from Mr. Younan’s vineyard and a tray of petit-fours.

We were given a tour of the hotel, which at the current time has only 9 rooms, which will be expanded to 18 rooms in the fall. The public rooms on the main level were similarly decorated to the guest rooms with gilded chairs and sofas in shades of pale gray and navy blue. In the dining room, we liked the chic chairs of blue toile fabric with black leather seats and the gold charger plates on the tables. The intimate bar with a stone fireplace offers a wide variety of vintage and rare cognacs. 

Dinner was at Le Daniel's restaurant on the outdoor terrace so we could take in the scenery in the clean, country air and also watch the sunset. Contrasting the formal furniture from the inside rooms, the terrace had simple white tables, modern mesh backed chairs and white umbrellas. 

Executive Chef Ludovic Dumont, winner of Master Chef France in 2012, made a smart move by giving the diner a choice of either a three or four course dinner or six-plate Tasting Menu. We chose the four-course menu, a slight indulgence but not over the top.  A plate of multicolor seasonal tomatoes was served with a melon sorbet, an excellent summer dish. The two main courses were a succulent milk-fed pig and a contrasting sea bream with an oyster sorbet, an odd taste when I had the first bite, but by the end a new way to enjoy sorbet. Dessert was a thin, delicate pastry shell topped with oversized, delicious raspberries with thyme-spiced ice cream on the side. The meal was paired with local wines from the exceptional wine cellar.

Alexandra Palace was kind enough to arrange a day of activities in Niort for us. We were driven to the old quarter of Niort and a guide from the Niort Tourism Office took us to Les Halles de Niort, the main food market in the center originally dating back to the 1400s. It was quite lively and busy as it was Saturday and the locals were storing up on their foods for the following week. The guide bought some briny local oysters for us to taste and shared the history of the market. The summer fruits and vegetables were in their ripe glory and hard to resist and we bought a box of the sweetest wild strawberries. Another vendor had an unusual local made cake, a cross between a sponge cake and angel cake with a hint of cheese. 

Next up was a visit to the Musée de Donjon, a commanding set of towers of a former fortress and prison from 1154. Built for Earl of Anjou who later became the King of England, the building was funded by the generous dowry from his wife Eleanor of Aquitaine. I climbed the spiral staircase to the top and took photos of the terracotta rooftops and ancient buildings. 

The highlight of the day was a boat ride through the canals of dense marshland. A private guide provided the history of the marshes while rowing us through the flora and fauna with over 70 species of birds. We glided over the forest green water, which cooled us off while we viewed the lush greenery. There were small patches of grassy fields where people stopped to picnic and some had cows grazing on them. 

That evening we enjoyed dinner again on the outdoor terrace and left early the next day back to Paris, feeling refreshed after a luxurious weekend retreat. 

Alexandra Palace
Le Petit Chêne
79310 Mazières-en-Gâtine,

https://www.hotelalexandrapalace.com/

Les Halles de Niort- Open daily except Monday 

https://www.halles-de-niort.fr/

Musée de Donjon

rue du Guesclin , 79000 Niort

https://www.niortagglo.fr/fr/sortir-visiter/patrimoine-et-musees/musee-du-donjon/index.html

Rowboats through Niort Marsh 

https://www.niortmaraispoitevin.co.uk/discover/the-mysterious-poitevin-marshes/trip-in-a-rowing-boat

If you love salted butter caramels, please watch my newest A Bite of Paris video about Henri Le Roux, the man who actually invented the salted butter caramel.

Click here to watch or link below

https://youtu.be/Am22oSA_UYc

Please remember to hit the LIKE button if you like it and SUBSCRIBE button to subscribe to my channel. 

Come experience Eye Prefer Paris live with Eye Prefer Paris Tours, which are 3-hour walking tours I personally lead. Eye Prefer Paris Tours include many of the places I have written about such as small museums & galleries, restaurants, cafes, food markets, secret addresses, fashion & home boutiques, parks and gardens and much more.  In addition to my specialty Marais Tour, I also lead tours of Montmartre, St. Germain, Latin Quarter, in addition to Shopping Tours, Gay Tours, Girlfriend Tours, Food Tours, Flea Market Tours, Paris Highlights Tours, and Chocolate & Pastry tours.

 

 

Window Boxes 2019

I’m late in delivering my window box series this year, but better late than never. 

For some reason I didn’t find the usual abundance of great window boxes as in the past when I would have dozens of photos to choose from. Perhaps it was the extreme heat this summer that perhaps had people resist installing flower boxes of fear they would not survive. 

If you love salted butter caramels, please watch my newest A Bite of Paris video about Henri Le Roux, the man who actually invented the salted butter caramel.

Click here to watch or link below

https://youtu.be/Am22oSA_UYc

Please remember to hit the LIKE button if you like it and SUBSCRIBE button to subscribe to my channel. 

Come experience Eye Prefer Paris live with Eye Prefer Paris Tours, which are 3-hour walking tours I personally lead. Eye Prefer Paris Tours include many of the places I have written about such as small museums & galleries, restaurants, cafes, food markets, secret addresses, fashion & home boutiques, parks and gardens and much more.  In addition to my specialty Marais Tour, I also lead tours of Montmartre, St. Germain, Latin Quarter, in addition to Shopping Tours, Gay Tours, Girlfriend Tours, Food Tours, Flea Market Tours, Paris Highlights Tours, and Chocolate & Pastry tours.

 

Shadow Photos Tuileries

Since I published my first series of Shadow Photos a few weeks ago, my eyes have been glued to the ground looking for shadows. 

I was in the Tuileries last week just next to the Jeu du Paume Museum. The raised part of the garden is lovely with a great overview of the fountain and Place de la Concorde. It was a beautiful late morning, with abundant sunshine and a cool breeze. I parked myself on one of the classic green metal garden chairs to relax. The lavender fields were in full bloom and the pleasant aroma wafted up to my chair. There were a few empty chairs near me and I noticed the interesting shadows they were casting. Gone was my relaxed mood and now I was on the hunt in the Tuileries for more shadows. 

I walked towards the Louvre and when I got to the amusement park and carnival, I hit the jackpot. There was astro turf with palm trees casting shadows with splayed palm tree branches. After I took some cool shots of the shadows from the Tuileries metro station. 

Do you have some favorites here? Do you like the color or black and white photos? Thanks for your feedback. 

 

Price Reduction: August in Paris- My Marais Apartment for Rent August 16 to August 28 

I am renting my Marais loft from August 16 to August 29 (Dates are flexible). Contrary to popular myth that Paris is closed in August, most shops, restaurants, and attractions are open in Paris, especially in the Marais. The weather is usually beautiful, temperatures in the high 70s to low 80s Fahrenheit during the day, dropping into the mid 60s at night. In case in gets warmer, I have an air conditioner in the bedroom and a large fan in the living area. 

Minimum rental period is 7 days/one week, price 1400€ for 7 days/one week, 1800€ for 10 days 

Conveniently located by the Saint Paul metro, in the heart of the Marais, the apartment is a spacious one-bedroom 750 sq. ft. loft  with 12 ft. ceilings, decorated in chic Mid-Century Modern furniture and sleeps two people in a Queen size bed. Amenities include washer/dryer, 16" flat screen TV, dishwasher, internet connection/Wifi and free long distance calls to the U.S.  The apartment is located on the second floor with a large elevator

Please email me at [email protected] if you are interested. 

If you love salted butter caramels, please watch my newest A Bite of Paris video about Henri Le Roux, the man who actually invented the salted butter caramel.

Click here to watch or link below

https://youtu.be/Am22oSA_UYc

Please remember to hit the LIKE button if you like it and SUBSCRIBE button to subscribe to my channel. 

 

New Manolo Blahnik Boutique Palais Royal

In case some of you didn’t know I used to be in the shoe business. When I was a teenager in the mid-1970s, my family owned a small chain of women’s shoe stores in lower Manhattan, near the first Century 21 store. At the time, high platform shoes were all the rage and Wall Street secretaries would come to the shop to buy their disco shoes for their party weekends. I worked at the store after school and into college. In the late 1970s and early 1980s, I went on to work at the Delman ladies shoe salon at Bergdorf Goodman on the main floor. I waited on Park Avenue and Fifth Avenue ladies who lunched and sold shoes to my share of celebrities including Jackie Onassis (size 10!) and Audrey Hepburn. Boy, did I learn the art of patience. 

The top French shoe designers were Charles Jourdan, with his slick stiletto heels made of shiny metal, Maud Frizon pumps with the famous cone—shaped heels, and the new kid on the block Robert Clergerie, who brought back sturdy, but sometimes clunky shoes for women. This was the first time shoes ever went over the $200 price tag in the Delman shoe department. Now you can hardly buy a pair of designer flip flops for that amount.

Although, I left the shoe business in the mid-1980s, I still have a fascination with women’s shoes to this day. When I had my chocolate shop on West 55^th street in Manhattan, I would pass the Manolo Blahnik boutique everyday, admiring the beautiful shoes and elegant décor. I even made friends with the shop manager, frequently popping by to see the latest styles. 

Footwear wizard Manolo Blahnik has opened his first freestanding boutique in Pairs in the chic Palais Royal. Of course, when I heard the news I rushed over there to see it. 

Upon entering the boutique, I was immediately drawn the rows of shoes on the wall and spent more than 30 minutes admiring their beauty. Each shoe is displayed on a pedestal, as it should be, a singular and exquisite piece of art and craftsmanship. Polka dots, stripes, jewels, fur, tassels, pompoms, and buckles adorned the shoes crafted in supple leather, sensuous suede, shiny satin, Baroque brocade, and patterned pony skin. 

I was told by one of the staff members that Manolo Blahnik designed six models exclusively available only at the Palais Royal shop. Whoopee! 

Two sumptuous emerald green couches with red piping and mahogany feet are set on top of a marble floor decorated with diamond shapes. 

The shop is also debuting Blahnik’s new men’s collection, and I eagerly climbed the stairs to the second floor to see them, but stopped for a moment to view a fabulous series of framed shoe drawings by the master himself. I eyed some styles that were just up my alley but when I didn’t see any prices on them, I had a feeling they were too expensive for my alleyway.  

Follow Manolo Blahnik on Instagram, they do really cool animations, stories, and photos. There's a series of shoe photos with Palais Royal in the background. 

11-12 Galerie de Montpensier
Palais Royal 75001

Open Monday to Saturday 11AM-7PM 

https://www.manoloblahnik.com/eu/

Price Reduction: August in Paris- My Marais Apartment for Rent August 16 to August 28 

I am renting my Marais loft from August 16 to August 29 (Dates are flexible). Contrary to popular myth that Paris is closed in August, most shops, restaurants, and attractions are open in Paris, especially in the Marais. The weather is usually beautiful, temperatures in the high 70s to low 80s Fahrenheit during the day, dropping into the mid 60s at night. In case in gets warmer, I have an air conditioner in the bedroom and a large fan in the living area. 

Minimum rental period is 7 days/one week, price 1400€ for 7 days/one week, 1800€ for 10 days 

Conveniently located by the Saint Paul metro, in the heart of the Marais, the apartment is a spacious one-bedroom 750 sq. ft. loft  with 12 ft. ceilings, decorated in chic Mid-Century Modern furniture and sleeps two people in a Queen size bed. Amenities include washer/dryer, 16" flat screen TV, dishwasher, internet connection/Wifi and free long distance calls to the U.S.  The apartment is located on the second floor with a large elevator

Please email me at [email protected] if you are interested. 

If you love salted butter caramels, please watch my newest A Bite of Paris video about Henri Le Roux, the man who actually invented the salted butter caramel.

Click here to watch or link below

https://youtu.be/Am22oSA_UYc

Please remember to hit the LIKE button if you like it and SUBSCRIBE button to subscribe to my channel. 

 

Calder-Picasso Exhibit at Musée Picasso Paris

I’ve been remiss in seeing some current exhibitions in Paris this summer because of my busy tour schedule. Last week I had an afternoon off to checkout the Calder-Picasso Exhibit at Musée Picasso after many clients and friends had raved about it. 

Each was a seminal artist in the 20^th century in their respective countries with Calder becoming a major figure in the post-war group of American artists and of course Picasso, the leading artist of his time in Europe and internationally. 

The exhibition is about the crossing of their strong individual  styles of using weightlessness in their work and how they complement each other.  Over 120 works are combined in two floors of the museum and the floor to ceiling windows cast natural light on the works. 

The most striking part of the exhibition was the juxtaposition of the strong, architectural shapes of Calder’s mobiles floating against the backdrop of the ornate, Baroque moldings and reliefs of the 17^th century stairway and ceiling. 

I had never been in the garden area, which was installed when the museum was renovated five years ago. A towering red metal sculpture by Calder dominated the manicured garden along with another, smaller scale sculpture in wrought iron. 

I went back inside to peruse the exhibit one more time and walked away with a deep appreciation and an altered perception of Calder and Picasso. 

Calder and Picasso 

Through August 23, 2019 

Musée Picasso Paris 

5 rue Thorigny, 75004 

http://www.museepicassoparis.fr/en/

Price Reduction: August in Paris- My Marais Apartment for Rent August 16 to August 28 

I am renting my Marais loft from August 16 to August 29 (Dates are flexible). Contrary to popular myth that Paris is closed in August, most shops, restaurants, and attractions are open in Paris, especially in the Marais. The weather is usually beautiful, temperatures in the high 70s to low 80s Fahrenheit during the day, dropping into the mid 60s at night. In case in gets warmer, I have an air conditioner in the bedroom and a large fan in the living area. 

Minimum rental period is 7 days/one week, price 1400€ for 7 days/one week, 1800€ for 10 days 

Conveniently located by the Saint Paul metro, in the heart of the Marais, the apartment is a spacious one-bedroom 750 sq. ft. loft  with 12 ft. ceilings, decorated in chic Mid-Century Modern furniture and sleeps two people in a Queen size bed. Amenities include washer/dryer, 16" flat screen TV, dishwasher, internet connection/Wifi and free long distance calls to the U.S.  The apartment is located on the second floor with a large elevator

Please email me at [email protected] if you are interested. 

If you love salted butter caramels, please watch my newest A Bite of Paris video about Henri Le Roux, the man who actually invented the salted butter caramel.

Click here to watch or link below

https://youtu.be/Am22oSA_UYc

Please remember to hit the LIKE button if you like it and SUBSCRIBE button to subscribe to my channel. 

Save the Paris Cafes

In 2014 two ex-pats living in Paris, Lisa Anselmo and Lisa Taylor Huff started the No Love Locks website and public campaign. The goal of the site was to educate and raise the awareness of the harmful effects the love locks had on the city bridges. Ultimately the goal was to get rid of the locks and restore Paris to its original beauty. The campaign went viral around the world and soon after Lisa and Lisa had an appointment with the Mayor of Paris, Anne Hidalgo, to implement a plan to eradicate the locks, as they were also harming the structure of the bridges. This resulted in the removal of thousands of locks from the Pont des Arts and other bridges in Paris. 

Lisa Anselmo recently hatched another Paris preservation project, Save the Paris Cafe, a commitment to keep the cafes of Paris alive and well. At one time the thriving café culture of Paris had over 45,000 establishments, which alarmingly dwindled to less than 7,000 in past years and many are closing every month. In an effort to save this most basic element of French culture, Save the Paris Café, is dedicated to preserving and nurturing the remaining cafes by going as far as petitioning UNSESCO to give cafes and bistros World Heritage status. 

The site has enlisted local celebrities, writers, and bloggers to contribute stories and information they feel is crucial in saving the tradition of cafes. 

Their goals include 

• • To highlight what is vitally important about cafés and bistros, and why we need to protect them
• • Not just for the lifestyle/culture, but for the larger issue of protecting small businesses, and the local residential life in cities and small towns
• • To start a conversation about the local café
• • Feature and promote favorite cafes around Paris and in France
• • To create outreach for café owners
• • A platform/forum for owners to share with each other
• • A source of advice/education on how to improve their business (e.g., proper cleaning of coffee machines; benefits of serving fresh vs. flash-frozen food)
• • To liaise with government regarding legislation that can help café owners survive and thrive in today’s economy

I am so impressed with their commitment, I asked Lisa if I could be a contributing author and photographer. I was thrilled when she said yes, and I will post photos and a monthly story on their website. 

Please join me in helping preserve the Paris cafes by supporting and reading through the site. 

Inspired by Save the Paris Cafes, I took the above photo at Le Grillon 19 Rue Falguière, 75015, a typical neighborhood café. 

https://savethepariscafe.com

Price Reduction: August in Paris- My Marais Apartment for Rent August 16 to August 28 

I am renting my Marais loft from August 16 to August 29 (Dates are flexible). Contrary to popular myth that Paris is closed in August, most shops, restaurants, and attractions are open in Paris, especially in the Marais. The weather is usually beautiful, temperatures in the high 70s to low 80s Fahrenheit during the day, dropping into the mid 60s at night. In case in gets warmer, I have an air conditioner in the bedroom and a large fan in the living area. 

Minimum rental period is 7 days/one week, price 1400€ for 7 days/one week, 1800€ for 10 days 

Conveniently located by the Saint Paul metro, in the heart of the Marais, the apartment is a spacious one-bedroom 750 sq. ft. loft  with 12 ft. ceilings, decorated in chic Mid-Century Modern furniture and sleeps two people in a Queen size bed. Amenities include washer/dryer, 16" flat screen TV, dishwasher, internet connection/Wifi and free long distance calls to the U.S.  The apartment is located on the second floor with a large elevator

Please email me at [email protected] if you are interested. 

If you love salted butter caramels, please watch my newest A Bite of Paris video about Henri Le Roux, the man who actually invented the salted butter caramel.

Click here to watch or link below

https://youtu.be/Am22oSA_UYc

Please remember to hit the LIKE button if you like it and SUBSCRIBE button to subscribe to my channel. 

Gardens at Musée Bourdelle

After viewing the Back Side/ Fashion from Behind Exhibition, I took time to visit the front courtyard and back garden. Bourdelle’s mighty sculptures of warriors, Greek gods and goddesses, horses, and historical figures fill the gardens along with manicured hedges, white hydrangeas, and holy hocks. 

Antoine  Bourdelle was born in 1861, the son of wood craftsman and cabinet maker and left school to assist his father. At age 24 he was admitted to the prestigious Ecole des Beaux Arts. Bourdelle was not only well schooled, studying under Rodin, he later on formed his own school and taught noted sculptors including Matisse and Giacometti. He moved into the current studio in 1885, working there until his death in 1929. The museum contains over 500 of Bourdelle’s works including marble, plaster, and bronze statues, paintings, pastels, fresco sketches along with Bourdelle’s own collection of works by Eugène Carrière, Eugène Delacroix, Jean Auguste Dominique Ingres, Adolphe Joseph Thomas Monticelli, Pierre Puvis de Chavannes, and Auguste Rodin. 

Musée Bourdelle 

18 Rue Antoine Bourdelle, 75015

Metro: Falguiere 

http://www.palaisgalliera.paris.fr/en/exhibitions/back-side/fashion-behind

Price Reduction: August in Paris- My Marais Apartment for Rent August 16 to August 28 

I am renting my Marais loft from August 16 to August 29 (Dates are flexible). Contrary to popular myth that Paris is closed in August, most shops, restaurants, and attractions are open in Paris, especially in the Marais. The weather is usually beautiful, temperatures in the high 70s to low 80s Fahrenheit during the day, dropping into the mid 60s at night. In case in gets warmer, I have an air conditioner in the bedroom and a large fan in the living area. 

Minimum rental period is 7 days/one week, price 1400€ for 7 days/one week, 1800€ for 10 days 

Conveniently located by the Saint Paul metro, in the heart of the Marais, the apartment is a spacious one-bedroom 750 sq. ft. loft  with 12 ft. ceilings, decorated in chic Mid-Century Modern furniture and sleeps two people in a Queen size bed. Amenities include washer/dryer, 16" flat screen TV, dishwasher, internet connection/Wifi and free long distance calls to the U.S.  The apartment is located on the second floor with a large elevator

Please email me at [email protected] if you are interested. 

If you love salted butter caramels, please watch my newest A Bite of Paris video about Henri Le Roux, the man who actually invented the salted butter caramel.

Click here to watch or link below

https://youtu.be/Am22oSA_UYc

Please remember to hit the LIKE button if you like it and SUBSCRIBE button to subscribe to my channel. 

Back Side/ Fashion from Behind Exhibition

Last week I finally had a day off from giving my tours and had a chance to go and see Back Side/ Fashion from Behind Exhibition at Musée Bourdelle. I wrote about it on my Eye Need to Do’s post earlier this month but had yet to see it. 

I haven’t been to the Musée Bourdelle in a while and I forgot what a lovely oasis it is in this quiet area of the 15^th arrondissement. Much like the Rodin Museum, the Musée Bourdelle has a collection of massive sculptures by Antoine Bourdelle, who lived in the same time period as Rodin and it also features a sculpture garden. 

The Palais Galliera in the 16^th arrondissement, a former palace, is now a fashion museum but is closed for renovations. While it’s closed for renovation, they install their exhibits in other museums. 

Back Side/ Fashion from Behind Exhibition explores the often-overlooked body part, the back, in the fashion arena. Over 100 garments from the 1800s to current day are presented on white mannequins, each showing a different aspect of the delicate and sensuous backside. Chanel, Jean-Paul Gaultier, Elsa Schiaparelli, Azzedine Alaïa, Martin Margiela, Rik Owens and Olivier Theyskens are some of the designers participating in the exhibit. Rik Owens creamy beige sculpted evening gown is exquisitely draped with a dramatic overflowing train and another stunner is a Karl Lagerfeld 1920s Art-Deco inspired black gown with a rain pattern in diamond beading flowing down the back. The Roaring 20s come alive with a few flapper design dresses. There was also Japanese representation with low-back kimonos. 

After the exhibition I strolled through the gardens with the soaring Bourdelle sculptures alongside fluffy white hydrangeas in full bloom. 

Tomorrow I will post photos of the garden. 

Until November 17, 2019 

Musée Bourdelle 

18 Rue Antoine Bourdelle, 75015

Metro: Falguiere 

http://www.palaisgalliera.paris.fr/en/exhibitions/back-side/fashion-behind

Lunch with Lynn/ Under 20 Eats: Bouillon Julien

In 1855 the Parisian butcher Pierre Louis Duval proposed a simple dish of meat immersed in bouillon to serve to the workers in the market place and the bouillon restaurant was born. By 1900 there were over 250 bouillons just in Paris. The formula was simple; they served basic, French favorites at reasonable prices in cavernous, lively dining rooms with a quick turnover. They were the first instance of chain restaurants in France, much like cafeterias in the U.S. in the early to mid 1900s. 

Paris bouillons all but disappeared in the late 1900s/early 2000s, as the Parisian palate became more sophisticated, with nouvelle cuisine making its culinary mark among other new food trends. Classic French plates like leeks vinaigrette, Blanquette de veau, rabbit paté, oeufs durs mayonnaise, and tete de veau disappeared from the menu, replaced with more refined dishes. 

In recent years, the culinary pendulum has swung back to the classics with the opening of Bouillon Pigalle, the first new bouillon to debut in almost a century. Following the same formula of yesteryear, Bouillon Pigalle serves tried and true French dishes, with a three-course meal in the 20€ price range. Bouillon Pigalle is a run away hit, with lines snaking over a block long at certain times of the day and night. Perhaps Parisians were craving hearty meals at lower prices instead of trendy small plates menus costing 30€ or more, leaving them still hungry after dinner.

Bouillon Julien originally opened in 1906, becoming one of the most beautiful restaurants in Paris. Designed by French architect Edouard Fournier in the height of the Art Nouveau design craze, it epitomized the decorative style. The top artisans of the period created stunning architectural details; Armand Segaud created the peacock panels, Louis Majorelle designed the mahogany bar, and the stained glass ceiling was designed by Charles Buffet, father of painter Bernard Buffet. In recent years Bouillon Julien was turned into a high price brasserie, a little bit out of place on a street filled with thrifty Turkish restaurants and casual cafes. 

In 2018, Julien changed owners and the name Bouillon Julien was restored, along with the menu. The interior received a major renovation by British designer John Whelan, who not only faithfully restored it, he also repainted it sea green, the original wall color before it turned to tobacco color from the decades of cigarette smoke. 

I recently went to Bouillon Julien for lunch with a friend. While perusing the appealing menu, I became distracted by the magnificent interior. I made my menu choices quickly and bolted to take photos before our food was served. 

For our entrée, I had the smoked herring with potatoes, drizzled with oil. The strong flavor of the herring was softened with the smooth, soft potatoes. My friend had leeks vinaigrette, served with a not too rich Hollandaise and a smattering of hazelnuts. For my plat, I went for a true classic, lamb with spring vegetables in tangy brown gravy. The pearl onions were the sweet touch of the dish along with the peas. We shared rice pudding, a white disc floating on a pool of salted butter caramel, which was way too sweet. 

Portions were a decent size, enough to satisfy but not too filling. 

Prices couldn’t be more reasonable, (my three-course lunch was less than 23€ and some of my dishes were on the expensive side of the menu. My friend’s leek dish was 3€), especially because you are dining in one of the most beautiful restaurants in Paris.  

Bouillon Julien 

16 rue du Faubourg Saint-Denis, 75110

Metro: Strasbourg-Saint Denis or Bonne Nouvelle 

https://www.bouillon-julien.com/

Price Reduction: August in Paris- My Marais Apartment for Rent August 16 to August 28 

I am renting my Marais loft from August 16 to August 29 (Dates are flexible). Contrary to popular myth that Paris is closed in August, most shops, restaurants, and attractions are open in Paris, especially in the Marais. The weather is usually beautiful, temperatures in the high 70s to low 80s Fahrenheit during the day, dropping into the mid 60s at night. In case in gets warmer, I have an air conditioner in the bedroom and a large fan in the living area. 

Minimum rental period is 7 days/one week, price 1400€ for 7 days/one week, 1800€ for 10 days 

Conveniently located by the Saint Paul metro, in the heart of the Marais, the apartment is a spacious one-bedroom 750 sq. ft. loft  with 12 ft. ceilings, decorated in chic Mid-Century Modern furniture and sleeps two people in a Queen size bed. Amenities include washer/dryer, 16" flat screen TV, dishwasher, internet connection/Wifi and free long distance calls to the U.S.  The apartment is located on the second floor with a large elevator

Please email me at [email protected] if you are interested. 

If you love salted butter caramels, please watch my newest A Bite of Paris video about Henri Le Roux, the man who actually invented the salted butter caramel.

Click here to watch or link below

https://youtu.be/Am22oSA_UYc

Please remember to hit the LIKE button if you like it and SUBSCRIBE button to subscribe to my channel. 

 

 

Marble Floors on Rue de Castiglione

On the left side of rue de Castiglione walking between rue de Rivoli and Place Vendome, I discovered a new series of colored marble sidewalk panels. It seemed forever that the street was under construction on the former site of the Hotel Lotti. It looks like another hotel will be opening in its place soon but I wasn’t able to find out what hotel it is. Meanwhile, the floor panels are a continuation of the mosaic tile floors lining rue Castiglione and rue de Rivoli. I don’t know much about marble but an educated guess on my part is that it’s imported from Italy. Are there any marble experts out there who would know where the marble comes from? 

7 rue de Castiglione, 75001

Metro: Tuileries or Concorde 

Price Reduction: August in Paris- My Marais Apartment for Rent August 16 to August 28 

I am renting my Marais loft from August 16 to August 29 (Dates are flexible). Contrary to popular myth that Paris is closed in August, most shops, restaurants, and attractions are open in Paris, especially in the Marais. The weather is usually beautiful, temperatures in the high 70s to low 80s Fahrenheit during the day, dropping into the mid 60s at night. In case in gets warmer, I have an air conditioner in the bedroom and a large fan in the living area. 

Minimum rental period is 7 days/one week, price 1400€ for 7 days/one week, 1800€ for 10 days 

Conveniently located by the Saint Paul metro, in the heart of the Marais, the apartment is a spacious one-bedroom 750 sq. ft. loft  with 12 ft. ceilings, decorated in chic Mid-Century Modern furniture and sleeps two people in a Queen size bed. Amenities include washer/dryer, 16" flat screen TV, dishwasher, internet connection/Wifi and free long distance calls to the U.S.  The apartment is located on the second floor with a large elevator

Please email me at [email protected] if you are interested. 

If you love salted butter caramels, please watch my newest A Bite of Paris video about Henri Le Roux, the man who actually invented the salted butter caramel.

Click here to watch or link below

https://youtu.be/Am22oSA_UYc

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