One of the few complaints I have about the part of the Marais I live in is the lack of really good and original restaurants. Yes, there are scores of cafes and restaurants that serve good French food but almost none are exceptional. Until now.
Les Foodies is a welcome relief of fine dining on the rue des Archives, where a long stretch of lively cafes cater to people who mostly want to drink and end up ordering food by convenience.
The chic, well appointed bar and dining room sets the tone for a serious meal to come. A backlit wall with uneven rectangular panels with occasional splashes of color channel Mondrian while enhancing the shiny lacquered tables tops trimmed in gold.
The menu was a mélange of dishes and ingredients from all over the culinary map. Chef Davide Galloni is of Italian and Thai descent and sources the food of his dual nationalities in the kitchen, then adds things like hummus to the menu.
An oversized white plate resembling a crater was filled with a fricassee of artichoke hearts, a poached egg, polenta and Brussels sprouts. Rich and layered, the dish excelled.
Fish tartares are very much in vogue in Parisian restaurants these days, and a tartare of lagoustines, sea scallops, served with a frothy lime Zabaglione and pistachios brought out the best in this trend with superior quality fish.
If that sounded satisfying enough, two more courses followed. We had to pace ourselves a bit. A house made ravioli more on the traditional Italian side stuffed with black truffle, was exquisite simplicity in its execution and taste. Another form of ravioli with monkfish and squid ink in a Langoustine bisque was also excellent but a little too rich to finish.
We weren’t going to order dessert but when we saw something resembling a terracotta flowerpot served to another table, we were all over it. On closer viewing, it was a real flowerpot and it was stuffed with a light, whipped mascarpone, and red currants.
Portions at Les Foodies are more than ample and surprising for this caliber of restaurant. I’ve been to so many restaurants that have had exceptional dishes, only to have them be a tease of taste, rather than enough to be truly satisfying.
Another plus was the laid back and friendly service.
Although the dinner menu runs about 50-60€ per person, the good news is that Les Foodies offers a 21€ entrée/plat or plat/dessert at lunch.
I must go back for lunch and I hope you go to.
Les Foodies
6 – 8 Square Sainte-Croix de la Bretonnerie, 75004
Metro: Hotel de Ville
Open everyday except Monday
http://lesfoodies.paris/#restaurant
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