I realized last month I had not been outside of Paris since July and haven’t taken any time off since then. It was time for a getaway and I decided to go to Prague, since I had not been before. I found an offer I couldn’t refuse: Round trip airfare plus five nights in a three star hotel for 350€.
I arrived last Monday at 12:30PM and the public bus from the airport (a great bargain at only 1.5€) took me to the main train station in 20 minutes, where I took an easy metro ride to a station, which was a three-minute walk to my hotel.
Hotel U Svatého Jana was a great find. It’s located in the new part of the city, which is much less touristy and quieter than the than the old city but only a 10 minute tram ride from the hotel. The neo-Baroque style hotel was the former priests quarters of the St. John of Nepomuk church next door. Although I had a single room, it was spacious enough for me to spread out comfortably to do my morning Yoga routine plus there was an electrical outlet right next to the bed so I could plug in my electronics. (These are two crucial things I judge all hotel rooms by. I remember a few years ago I was staying at a newly built luxury hotel but was frustrated by the fact they forgot to put electrical outlets anywhere near the bed). The desk staff was helpful and friendly and breakfast included made to order omelets and eggs plus unlimited espresso.
Searching for a place for lunch, I discovered right across the street from the hotel a restaurant called Richard’s Kitchen and enjoyed a lovely meal of vegetable soup and a duck salad.
It was a crisp, clear sunny day and after lunch I strolled across the legendary Charles Bridge on the Vitava River. The bridge was constructed beginning in 1357 under the reign of Charles IV and completed in the beginning of the 15th century. Protected by two towers the bridge is 2, 037 feet long and 33 feet wide with 16 arches below. It was a perfect gateway to get in touch with the beauty of the city with sweeping views of the river, historic buildings and Linden tree-lined hills.
Charles Bridge
Charles Bridge
Charles Bridge
One of my favorite things in Prague was the exquisite architecture. From the 17th century palaces to the extraordinary Baroque churches to the Art Nouveau buildings, I was in awe. Interestingly the Art Nouveau buildings are not pure Art Nouveau, rather a mix of Nordic style with touches of Art Nouveau.
The other great deal besides my hotel and airfare package was the Prague Card. I bought a four day pass for only 65€, a terrific value. It provided free transport by tram, metro, and bus all over the city. Also included in the pass was free admission to many of the top attractions including The Jewish Museum (I took a Jewish tour and saved over 20€ on the entrance tickets to many of the attractions), Old Town Hall and Tower, Prague Castle, Astronomical Observatory, City of Prague Museum, Museum of Music and the medieval art collection at the convent of St. Agnes of Bohemia plus countless discounts for river cruises, museums, Segway tours and classical music concerts. I highly recommend purchasing a Prague Card if you visit.
One of the other things I appreciated about Prague was how inexpensive most things were, especially food and drink. I had some excellent two course meals with drinks, never paying more than 18€ for a meal. I enjoyed hearty goulash, crispy Wiener Schnitzel with potato salad (potato salad has pickles in it, extra yummy), Mediterranean food and fabulous Italian restaurant with fresh made pasta. My favorite experience was having mint tea and coconut macaroons at the Municipal House Café, a stunning Art Nouveau room with drop dead crystal chandeliers and elegant wood carved dining chairs.
Prague is known for its impressive classical music and opera and I totally lucked out and scored a last minute ticket to see Don Giovanni. The Estates Theater where it was performed was where Mozart had the world premiere of Don Giovanni in October of 1787, so imagine the elation I felt having the good fortune to see in its original locale. The theater was small and intimate and I sat in a box on the first mezzanine. I had never seen Don Giovanni before and the music and production with modern day minimalist sets was extraordinary.
For the next five days I painted the town, seeing so many incredible places and things. I will be writing other posts about my adventures in Prague in the coming weeks, so stay tuned.
Hotel u Svateho Jana
Vyšehradská 28, 128 00 Praha 2
http://www.hotelusvatehojana.cz/en/
Prague Card https://www.praguecard.com/index.php?lang=en
Restaurants and Cafes
The Municipal House Café - Kavárna Obecní Dům
Municipal House (first floor, left wing)
Náměstí Republiky 5 – Republic square 5
Oliva Restaurant- Excellent Mediterranean food
Plavecka 4, Praha 2
www.olivarestaurant.cz
La Bottega- Homemade Italian
Ondrickova 17
Praha 3
www.labottega.cz
U Kroka – Casual100 year old bar with Czech/European cuisine
Vratislavova 28/12,
128 00 Praha 2
http://www.ukroka.cz/
Phill’s Corner- fun, hip daytime cafe & restaurant, also offering vegan & vegetarian dishes
Komunardů 894/32, 170 00 Praha 7-Holešovice
Municipal House Café
Municipal House
Dancing House/Fred and Ginger- Frank Gehry from 1996
Strahov Monastery Library
Strahov Monastery Library
John Lennon Wall
Eiffel Tower- Fooled you! Actually, it's Petrin Tower, inspired by Eiffel Tower, but smaller
Municipal House
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