American Food Invasion in Paris

In the seven years I have been living in Paris, I have witnessed an American food invasion.

When I first moved in August 2005, it was a subtle trend. Restaurants and cafes were offering their version of American style brunch, with extensive menus of large amount of carbohydrates including bagels, eggs, fruit, juices, etc.

It used to be that the only place you could get a decent cocktail or mixed drinks in Paris was at the Hemingway Bar at the Ritz Hotel. In recent years Happy Hour drink menus have sprung up at many local cafes offering mojitos, caipirinhas, martinis, and Champagne cocktails. Also a number of sophisticated full-scale cocktail bars have opened with certified mixologists shaking and stirring trendy cocktails for Paris hipsters and Bobo's at New York prices hovering around 15 euros each.

About three years ago the all-American hamburger started to gain a lot of buzz when some of the top chefs in Paris created upscale versions of America's favorite fast-food. New and clever versions were a long way from the Big Mac, including designer sliders and burgers topped with foie gras reaching a ridiculous price point of 40 euros and above.

In the last year or so it seems the press has become obsessed with American food coming to Paris. Food writers, travel publications, and food bloggers have made such a fuss about the first food trucks arriving in Paris, enough that you would think it was the Second Coming or the wheel had just been invented. What trumped it all for me was the article on the front page of the New York Times last month gushing about a new food truck that was serving high quality Mexican fare and hamburgers. I know the motto of the New York Times is "All the news that's fit to print" but obviously they didn't quite have enough to fit on the front page that day, so they decided that a story about a food truck was much more worthy than say one about war, famine, the failing world economy, or even the upcoming election.

Now don't get me wrong, I think it's terrific that Parisians are finally expanding their palates to try other kinds of cuisine besides their own. Paris can certainly use a shot in the arm to liven some of its staid and predictable dining habits and I think it's healthy that Parisians now have a more expansive variety of better quality American food than in the past to choose from. I very much welcome the newcomers.

But between the American chefs opening restaurants in Paris, the food trucks, and the spate of new places to find authentic American hamburgers, I think way too much emphasis is placed on them and I am afraid that French cuisine will start eroding and take a backseat to all this hype. There is still an amazing and inventive world of French cuisine in France and attention should still be paid. Yes, the rest of the world may have caught up to French cuisine in certain ways in the past few decades, but remember that none of it would have happened without the essential roots of French cuisine.

I would love to have your feedback, especially from any food bloggers, food writers, or anyone who has an interest in the Paris food scene.

 

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Comments

[Maria Lucia Calo]

most people even in paris don't understand good food and so hot dogville can take over, whats wrong with american food? its not just food but an insidious movement taking over huge tracts of virgin rainforest for cows and thus hamburgers, americans never do anything positive hardly ever

[Evelyn]

If I'm going to eat carbs, let them be in croissants and pomme frites. If I'm going to eat 'parts' let them be in foie gras, pates and terrines and not in hot dogs. If I'm going to drink alcohol, let it be in wine which is, I believe, one of the major food groups! If I wanted to eat American food, I wouldn't have moved to France. The only American foods I occasionally miss is cottage cheese and on cold, rainy nights, microwave popcorn!!

[John W.]

Americans have been writing about the decline of (a certain kind of) French cuisine since at least the 1920s (see A.J. Liebling). That said, I've been told the decline accelerated when French mothers stopped teaching their daughters how to cook. We might do well to remember, though, that American and French are not the only cuisines. While Paris was supposedly languishing in its "staid and predictable dining habits," the best Vietnamese and North African cuisine in Europe was widely available in family-run restaurants on its streets.

[Marie Z Johnston]

A few weeks ago, I wandered into a traditional charcuterie in the 11th, to my surprise there was a tray of 'sliders' on the counter being sold as the perfect 'apero' accompaniment.. this in a place that has won gold medals for it's summer terrines and boudin noir. I was actually horrified - even more so when a person in my group insisted on buying some to try... seriously?

I think the new wave of good, delicious hamburgers is actually great. The little Mexican places a refreshing change of pace; that said, I also love the Rue St Anne for it's Asian offerings and the 18th for an inexpensive trip to India... a large city offering a wide variety of ethnic cuisines is wonderful and part of what's terrific about living in a large city... but this recent obsession with American cooking/chefs is, well, bizarre to me. Though I will admit that sometimes my craving for good BBQ is a bit over the top.

[Robert]

It is simply tragic. We are becoming clones of our own worst standards. Jamie Oliver tried to do something about it. They ditched him. I think the only long term solution would be to gather all the people around and let them eat. And eat. And eat some more, just like in the Monty Python movie where the fat guy explodes. When they explode on their crap cuisine, we'll finally be rid of them.

[Travelingmcmahans.wordpress.com]

I've noticed this trend too, and it doesn't especially bother me. But when I go to Paris I am decidedly not going there to eat American food! I enjoy fine food on this side of the Atlantic but when in Paris ...

[Anne]

I also have noticed the British trying to get in with their foods ... When I go to Paris, just like the lady in the comment above .. I DO NOT go to eat British foods, Nor American for that matter ...I don't go to Starbucks (not even in England) I don't do Mcdonalds either... I go to find the little cafes , the little french restaurants with no menus.. to speak of .. I love going to Rue Cler, when in the 7th.. ok Tourists but also locals

[Holidays in France]

Paris has always had a strong culinary tradition. Even though American dishes are more readily available in the city now, it's still renowned for being home to some of France's best traditional cuisine.

Best wishes, Alex.

[Karen]

I think it is terrible that American food is making its way into France. It used to be when the French came to the US and stayed for awhile, they became fat, or at least gained weight. The opposite was true when Americans stayed in France. Here is a recent article from Dr. Mercola, who has several million fans around the world. The US food is tainted by GMO food and now they want to use it in Europe. My husband and I were saddened to see McDonalds in Paris and Rome. It's junk food. I have read reports that since the introduction of fast food in France, the French are now gaining weight. It is hard to find decent food in the US. When we have been to France, it was hard NOT to fine good food. I hope the French push back, but alas, they may succumb to capitalism and greed, and the horrible life style that comes with it. See article below. Karin Olsen
By Dr. Mercola

The European Union (EU) has historically taken a strict, cautious stance regarding genetically modified (GM) crops, much to the chagrin of Monsanto and in stark contract to the United States.

For instance, while GM crops are banned in several European countries, and all genetically modified foods and ingredients have to be labeled, This is in stark contrast to the U.S., where Monsanto has effectively restricted any unfavorable legal actions because of the massive conflict they have with federal regulatory agencies.

Recently Connecticut and Vermont where ready to pass statewide GMO labeling requirements but backed out at the last minute when biotech giant Monsanto threatened to sue them if it was passed.

As a result, the U.S. has only recently begun passing legislation that protects the use of GM seeds and allows for unabated expansion, in addition to the fact that GM ingredients do not have to be labeled.

It's quite clear that the U.S. government, which is closely tied to Monsanto, has been aiding and abetting Monsanto's tireless and often ruthless quest to control the world's food crops.

U.S. diplomatic cables released by WikiLeaks, showed the government even conspired to find ways to retaliate against Europe for refusing to use GM seeds, mainly by engaging in aggressive trade wars against reluctant nations.i As you might suspect, the EU has been under heavy pressure to add some slack to their GM regulations – and it seems they are about to cave …

EU Proposes to Drop Zero Tolerance Policy

The European Commission has issued a proposal to drop the policy of zero tolerance for unapproved and untested GMOs in food. The proposal suggests setting a threshold below which contaminated imports could enter Europe’s food chain.

This is similar to the EU’s move in 2011 … they once had a zero tolerance policy regarding GM contamination from unapproved GMOs in animal feed, but last year decided to allow contamination with up to 0.1 percent of such materials. At the time, Greenpeace EU agriculture policy adviser Stefanie Hundsdorfer said:ii

“If the safety of a GM crop has not been tested in Europe, it should not be allowed. Setting a tolerance threshold, however low, is a sign that Europe is losing control over its own food production to please American exporters. The danger now is that EU countries come under pressure from the pro-GM lobby to also allow GM contamination in food products for direct human consumption.”

And, alas, that moment has come, just over one year later. Several GM opponents are urging the Department for Environment, Food and Rural Affairs, Secretary of State Caroline Spelman to reject the proposals, noting:iii

“Pressure to drop the zero tolerance policy comes from the US government, the WTO and the biotech industry.”

EU Blocks France’s Ban on GM Corn

France recently asked the European Commission to suspend Monsanto's authorization to plant genetically modified MON 810 corn, citing "significant risks for the environment" shown in recent scientific studies (Germany has also banned the cultivation of MON 810 corn).

The EU stepped in and blocked the ban, which was an unsettling move to put it mildly, considering that in a leaked cable from 2007, Craig Stapleton, who was the U.S. ambassador to France at the time, commented on France's plan to ban the cultivation of GM corn, and stated that retaliation would occur:

"Europe is moving backwards not forwards on this issue with France playing a leading role, along with Austria, Italy and even the [European] Commission... Moving to retaliation will make clear that the current path has real costs to EU interests and could help strengthen European pro-biotech voice.

... Country team Paris recommends that we calibrate a target retaliation list that causes some pain across the EU since this is a collective responsibility, but that also focuses in part on the worst culprits. The list should be measured rather than vicious and must be sustainable over the long term, since we should not expect an early victory."

UK Also Moving Full Steam Ahead with GMOs

Meanwhile, in the UK the Agriculture Biotechnology Council (ABC) published a new report "Going for Growth," which, according to GMWatch, “calls for GM to be put at the heart of agricultural development in the UK.” But ABC is not a government authority; it’s a GM industry lobby group that represents the interests of Monsanto, Bayer, DuPont, Syngenta and other biotech giants.

However, the ABC is meeting with key UK government officials to present their case, and reportedly “the industry’s push for GM is already being welcomed.”

Ironically, around this same time, a leading supporter of GM foods in the UK, George Freeman, has been touting a supposedly “healthier” broccoli that fights heart disease as GM, and using it to show how “GM food can improve health.” But it turns out the broccoli, sold under the brand Marks & Spencer is not GM at all, but is produced using natural plant breeding methods!

Freeman, who has received money from the biotech industry, is now in hot water with Marks & Spencer, who has banned GM foods for more than 10 years, and was one of the first UK retailers to put such a ban in place!

This type of thing has actually happened before. In 2008, retired chief government scientist in the UK, Professor Sir David King made claims that drought-resistant crops that have increased yields by 30% were being planted in South Africa – even though the plants were only in a trial period, and effectiveness had yet to be proven. And as reported in the Guardian:iv

“King has been wrong before about new crops in Africa, claiming that a successful project near Lake Victoria was benefiting from GM technology, before having to admit the crops involved were not GM at all.”

GM Soy Linked to Illnesses in Farm Pigs

As you probably know the reason why there’s such heated controversy over the allowance of GM crops is due to their many health dangers, and the fact that their genes are capable of transferring to non-GM plants ‘horizontally,’ which means you cannot contain them. They absolutely WILL contaminate their conventional and organic counterparts, so one day soon there may be no such thing as “GM-free,” because everything will be contaminated – especially with the recent approval of GM alfalfa.

Jeffrey Smith, author of Seeds of Deception and Genetic Roulette: The Documented Health Risks of Genetically Engineered Foods, provides overwhelming evidence that genetically engineered foods are unsafe and should never have been introduced. Smith has documented at least 65 serious health risks from GM food products.

Among them:

Offspring of rats fed GM soy showed a five-fold increase in mortality, lower birth weights, and the inability to reproduce
Male mice fed GM soy had damaged young sperm cells
The embryo offspring of GM soy-fed mice had altered DNA functioning
Many US farmers report sterility or fertility problems among pigs and cows fed GM corn
Investigators in India have documented fertility problems, abortions, premature births, and other serious health issues, including deaths, among buffaloes fed GM cottonseed products
There are countless examples of GM crop failures, as well as GM-associated toxicity being observed in animals fed the plants. For instance, a farmer in Denmark became frustrated because his pigs were sick. The pigs had chronic diarrhea, birth defects, reproductive problems, reduced appetite, bloating, stomach ulcers, weaker and smaller piglets, and reduced litter sizes – and they were being fed GM soybeans.

[Joan]

Yes, it is interesting, Richard. And it all goes back to Joe Allen, a pioneer from NYC who opened his place back in the early 80s, late 90s, and it remains popular. I have mixed feelings about the food trucks, restaurants, hype around American cooking….but as long as quality ingredients are used and the French approach is taken, then vive la difference.

[Anne]

Good blog! I like your passion about the food, and moreover about the ridiculous emphasis that is put on some trivial things (food trucks) when there are so many truly pressing problems. Of course there is something to be said for a bit of levity to balance out all the gloom and doom. Enjoy some lovely french food for me!

[Catherine]

hate it...I lived in Paris 5 years..my husband is French..I could lament not being able to fine say black eyed peas but if I wanted American fast food I could get it in the states...which I didn’t and don’t...I would never go to a McDonald’s, TGIF, etc in France

[mia]

As a part-time Paris resident for the past 30 years or so... I can tell you that Yes, there is an invasion of Paris and of France by American food and language. Horrible how they treat this beautiful language called French. In the street, the songs, the businesses, on TV, EVERYWHERE! It's terrible! Most of the time, they don't even know what they are saying!

For years I went to Joe Allen and a couple of other spots with friends on Saturday lunch, when the craving for a real burger was too much, when steak-frites (still the base of everyday Frenchman) and jambon-beurre and croque-monsieur and salads were up to my ying-yang.

I must admit that food trucks are new. And rare.

[Barbara]

Paris....keep it French s.v.p. !

[p]

I agree with you totally. I certainly hope this "trend" does not lead to a fat French population.
When I travel out of America, I want to have the cuisine of the country I visit.

[chas]

I think there is quite a bit of arrogant French snobbery on these comments. After living in Paris my second time for several years, the Restaurant and food scene is quite disappointing in comparison to New York. In New York you have great quality, variety, service and ambiance.Now, in Paris all you seem to receive is standard Bistro fare with no innovation and certainly no creativity in ambiance or service. Gone are the days of French ruling haute cuisine. I am looking forward to going back to New York, where actually foods are healthier and despite popular opinion in France, People are actually thinner there !