As many of you know, George Whitman of Shakespeare and Company bookshop passed away earlier this week at the ripe age of 98. My friend, writer Michele Kurlander has written a warm and personal profile of the beloved Whitman.
GEORGE WHITMAN IS GONE
George Whitman is dead at the age of 98, and my Paris friends are all planning to join a cortege to his Pere LaChaise funeral this week. I cannot join them, sadly, since I am imprisoned in Chicago by my client obligations and financial circumstances and can’t return to visit Paris until January.
There are many of us to whom George has always been an integral part of Paris - and to whom his death is a tragedy of indescribable proportions, notwithstanding his age and recent stroke and the obvious inevitability.
George arrived in Paris in 1948 and in 1951 he opened the now iconic Shakespeare and Company English language bookstore at 37 rue de la Bucherie - at first named Le Mistral, but later renamed after the famous bookstore that his friend Sylvia Beach had once run on Rue de L’Odeon.
Sylvia mentored and supported the likes of Ernest Hemingway and James Joyce and even published Ulysses when no one else would touch what the world then considered a scandalous book. Like Sylvia, George has always given succor and literary encouragement to writers. He even offered young and impoverished authors a home in the store since he let them sleep on benches and behind bookshelves in exchange for duties such as book shelving, cash register manning and dishwashing - and in exchange for following his rules, which included writing their biographies on a small portable typewriter for his archives, and reading one book a day.
He called them “tumbleweeds” and liked to quote Yeats, who wrote: “Be not inhospitable to strangers, lest they be angels in disguise.”
I, too, was once a momentary “tumbleweed,” though I am a middle age lawyer, only a sometime writer, and not impoverished. Nevertheless, writing is my passion, and, I like to dream that I live in Paris and write full time.
As part of that dream, I walked into Shakespeare & Company one day and, on a whim, asked George if even people my age could stay there. He asked if I was a writer and I demurred and admitted that I was not published. He again asked: “do you write?” Of course I said I did - and spent a night with the current contingent of young and penniless writers in residence there. George actually found a small bed for me (because of my age, I guess) and I was not put to work in the store- but I did have to tap out my biography on that little typewriter and provide a picture for his archives.
My fellow residents taught me how to pitch a small stone at a window to be let into the door after George’s midnight curfew, and I woke the next morning to the hope of a writer’s life and the view of a beautiful new day lighting the turrets of Notre Dame just across a sliver of the River Seine.
I have returned numerous times - not to sleep there, but to see George, to get to know his daughter Sylvia - who returned to him in recent years after growing up in England with her mother (and whose full name is Sylvia Beach Whitman, after guess who?), to attend the Sunday afternoon “tea parties” where locals, tourists, and even the famous gather to eat cookies, share stories, and sip tea served by “tumbleweeds.” One Sunday, I found myself sitting next to George’s good friend, famous San Francisco beat poet Laurence Ferlinghetti.
Sometimes, I attend the Monday night book readings, and sometimes just wander the narrow aisles, pick up a book or two, or sit upstairs in the public “library” to read or write.
Sometimes George didn’t recognize me, and sometimes he said: “OH, there’s the Chicago lawyer.” Sometimes George was cordial, and sometimes..............not so much.
I once tried to purchase a book about Gertrude Stein that George apparently thought should have remained upstairs in the “library” - where books are for customers to read, but are not for sale. It had somehow made its way onto the main floor shelves, and there I was trying to pay for it at the register. “You can’t buy that,” he shouted at me as he tossed the book across the counter. He calmed down when I begged him to let me keep it for just a few days with a promise to return it. We made the deal.
I was standing late one night at the reception area of Hotel Marignan on rue de Sommerard when George walked in to ask if they had a cheap room available. He carried an old torn gym bag, and his hair was flying (probably from his latest “haircut” - with the flame of a candle), and for a moment (until he was recognized) the receptionist recoiled and tried to turn him away. George had that night even given up his own bed above the store to a writer who had arrived unexpectedly.
It was at Shakespeare and Company, in the second floor “library”, where I first met my now great friend, author and Paris historian Thirza Vallois - whose Paris books are not just walking tours but a wealth of historic information.
It was at Shakespeare and Company where I met my friend Jonathon, a young man from Ireland who writes pithy and quirky prose and who worked there for years. Many an evening, I sat near the cash register on a small bench against the shelves and talked literature, Paris, and just stuff with Jonathon. He left Shakespeare a few years ago to get a college education in London, and is now a rare bookseller in Paris.
The day after George’s death, Jonathan e-mailed me that he and 30 others had stood in the cold outside the store to watch as George was carried out, and that as he wrote his e-mail to me he was listening to My Way and tears were running down his face.
I understood the emotion.
I will miss George. We all will.
Michele Kurlander is a 67-year-old Chicago corporate lawyer, writer, small business and women's issues advocate (past president of the Chicago Area Chapter of the National Association of Women Business Owners) mother of three grown children, and grandma of six. She fell in love with France and all things French many years ago when she first traveled to Europe as the chaperone of a younger cousin in 1967. She travels back to France at least once each year ( often two and three times), whenever her addiction overwhelms her. and keeps up her far from fluent but passable French by reading detective stories by George Simenon about Inspector Maigret. Some of her fondest memories of Paris are (i) sleeping on a bench on the third floor of Shakespeare & Co. one year, and waking to the bells of Notre Dame; (ii) spending her "big" birthdays (50, 60, and 65) in France (the first two entirely in Paris, the most recent both in Paris and in an old stone cottage in a small hamlet in the Aveyron).
New Eye Prefer Paris Photos for Sale
I am happy to announce the sale of a new set of prints of my Eye Prefer Paris Photos. I am offering 20 of my most popular and iconic images for sale including my doors, architectural details, statues, and monuments. They will make great gifts for all your Francophile friends, relatives, and colleagues but don't forget to buy some for yourself.
Click here to see photos and for full details including sizes, prices, and shipping. Here is a sample of some of the photos.
New! Eye Prefer Paris Cooking Classes
I am happy to announce the launch of Eye Prefer Paris Cooking Classes. Come take an ethnic culinary journey with me and chef and caterer Charlotte Puckette, co-author of the bestseller The Ethnic Paris Cookbook (with Olivia Kiang-Snaije). First we will shop at a Paris green-market for the freshest ingredients and then return to Charlotte's professional kitchen near the Eiffel Tower to cook a three-course lunch. After, we will indulge in the delicious feast we prepared along with hand-selected wines.
Cost: 185 euros per person (about $240)
Time: 9:30AM- 2PM (approximately 4 1/2 hours)
Location: We will meet by a metro station close to the market
Class days: Tuesday,Wednesday, Thursday,Friday, Saturday, and Sunday
Minimum of 2 students, maximum 6 students.
Click here to sign up for the next class or for more info.
I am pleased as punch to announce the launch of Eye Prefer Paris Tours, which are 3-hour walking tours I will personally be leading. The Eye Prefer Paris Tour includes many of the places I have written about such as small museums & galleries, restaurants, cafes & food markets, secret addresses, fashion & home boutiques, parks, and much more.
Tours cost 195 euros for up to 3 people, and 65 euros for each additional person. I look forward to meeting you on my tours and it will be my pleasure and delight to show you my insiders Paris.
Check it out at www.eyepreferparistours.com