One of the highlights of visiting Le Motte Picquet/Grenelle food market during my Eye Prefer Paris Cooking Classes is having Francesca Hanak select cheeses for me. She always has such a pretty smile and terrific recommendations for our cheese course for our lunch. Please look for Francesca next time you are at the Le Motte-Picquet/Grenelle on Wednesdays and Sundays.
Where were you born and where did you grow up?
I was born and raised in Los Angeles and moved to New York as a young adult.
Why and when did you move to Paris?
I initially came to Paris to grapple with French. I graduated from Bryn Mawr
majoring in Spanish with French as a second language. I was so stymied by
French grammar that I took the advice of my last French Professor and came to Paris after I graduated in 2003 to enroll in the Sorbonne's intensive summer course for foreigners. One thing led to another and I am still living in this remarkable city.
One of the unexpected adventures I had was to serve as an interpreter and
translator to an American Cabinetmaker enrolled at the prestigious Ecole
Boulle. I spent several months in the shrine of furniture and decorative arts
savoir faire, practically living in the restoration department. I was equally exposed to the fascinating corresponding disciplines such as Marquetry, Sculpting, Bronze Forging; French Polishing, Gilding - all the elements necessary to restore French period pieces properly. The experience overwhelmed my linguistic capabilities and plunged me into a visceral contact of the history of France and its history of Art, two inseparable subjects.
How did you start working at the cheese stand?
Through a student at the Ecole Boulle I made the acquaintance of the owner of
The Chèvres de Saint Vrain. Shortly thereafter I began teaching him English and one day he asked me if I would be interested in working for him. With great
trepidation I accepted and it has become quite possibly one of the most daunting challenges I have ever inflicted upon myself.
Can you give us a short lesson in “How to buy cheese at a French cheese shop/stand for Dummies”?
Decide before hand if your preference is hard or soft cheese... There are usually three types of cheese represented in most cheese shops or stands: Cow’s Milk Cheese, Goat’s Milk Cheese and Ewe’s Milk or Sheep's Milk Cheese. Each comes in an either wheel form (hard) or partially fresh (soft) that comes in a variety of shapes. If you are unfamiliar with either goat or ewe cheese stick to cow and ask for what is usually a mild, fruity and universally loved cheese ” Comté” ( pronounced as if it was spelled Conté) however make certain the Comté is between 18 to 22 months, older Comté (more than 30 months) can be too mature for an under developed palate. Although this Gruyère style cheese is called a hard cheese or “pate dur" in French it is simply firm and smooth to the tongue. The finest Comté is AOC (Designation of Origin) green label. Industrial produced Comté is available in every supermarket throughout France but it has nothing to do with the quality and taste found in traditionally artisan made Comté. If a soft cow cheese is preferable "Brie de Meaux" is a gentle and easily spreadable cheese, best to be eaten soon after purchasing especially in the summer months. One other possibility, especially if fat content isn't an issue, is Briart Savarin (cow’s milk) a delicate, rich and sumptuously smooth cheese. The rind on all soft cheese is eaten and most of the hard cheese as well.
What are some of the misconceptions foreigners have about cheese?
One of the constant refrains of foreigners is "I don't want a cheese that's
strong". Very few of the cheese sold in quality shops or stands will bite or
overwhelming the palate. However the notion of "strong" is often so
individual and subjective that it poses a problem and only experience will be your guide. Obviously cheese that has been matured or aged for more than two years is going to have a developed, concentrated taste, not necessarily overwhelming such as the Vieille Mimolette....so as with wine you have to begin with the basics: Brie, Camembert, Saint Nectaire, Reblochon, Tomme de Chèvre, Selles sur Cher, Comté.. all of which are mild and flavourful with different textures and rinds.
Many Americans are afraid to eat raw milk cheese for sanitary reasons. Can you reassure us about them?
The obvious facts about raw milk consumption are evident. If raw milk is indeed
dangerous why are the French still consuming it and why aren’t they falling like flies? The rules and regulations are so stringent in France that the chances of contamination are exceedingly slim. There is more of a chance of contamination with pasteurized products then fresh food. Make no mistake about it the French are very, very careful about what they consume. They are overcautious with fresh eggs and milk in general, they examine the expiration dates scrupulously and purchase just enough until the next market day.
What one cheese would you have to have if you were on a desert island?
Without hesitation: Green label AOC Comté and if that were not available then Beaufort Alpage, AOC would be my second choice. Beaufort is considered the elite cheese of the elite. Unfortunately it’s extremely expensive. There are at least three seasonal defined Beaufort and each offer a distinctive taste. It is highly appreciated among connoisseurs.
Any pointers on how to approach a cheese seller if it’s your first time?
As with all contact with the French, a salutation is obligatory. No matter how
poor you may think you speak French you must muster a "Bonjour, Merci, and Au Revoir". It may be fatiguing and feel exceeding strange but nothing will cause more strife with the French than ignoring their salutations. On the other hand nothing charms the French more than appreciative Americans that are interested and respectful of their products. There are many Americans living part or full time in Paris that have become cheese consumers and they are among the most prized customers.
It is helpful to know that there are various types of cheese that can be cut thinly but others cannot. For example a large wheel can obviously be cut many times to the desired size. But smaller units of cheese cannot. Most round or square cheese can be cut in half depending on the discretion of the seller, i.e. Camembert, Pont de L'Eveque, Briart Savarin etc. Mid-size cheese can usually be cut in half or in quarters, others must be sold by the unit. However if it is at the end of the market it is less likely that the vendor will be willing to cut a unit cheese in half.
How much cheese does a typical customer buy for the week?
The clients that come to the Chèvres de Saint Vrain Stands are very faithful and constant, most come twice a week, especially if they are entertaining guests. The amount purchased varies from market to market. Les Chèvres des Saint Vrain stand has three markets located near the metro stations: Alma Marceau, Maubert Mutualité and La Motte-Picquet Grenelle. Each market reflects a particular clientele and life style. La Motte-Picquet Grenelle, for example, has a mixed clientele consisting of retirees, housewives, husbands who do the purchasing on the weekends and tourists. On an average a small household will purchase between 20.00 to 30.00 euro of cheese, including items such as butter, milk, eggs, fresh cream and yogurts. A larger family will purchase anywhere from 30.00 to 50.00 euro. These figures can easily rise by 20 percent at another market. During the major holiday season the amounts almost double. Obviously cheese is a serious staple for the French; its importance is comparable to fine wine.
What do you prefer about Paris?
What I have yet to take for granted are the attempts of the French to be humane and respectful to everyone, even if it can become a perfunctory reflex and not necessarily sincere. It has taken time for me to develop this reflex that establishes the foundation of what I can only describe as a sort of civility. The grasping of hands, the salutations and the inquiries of how one is, are ways to neutralize the hazards and stress of living in an overly cramped city. The French are very sensitive to and appreciative of polite service. I value their contact because they are, for the most part, exceeding loyal and open once they trust your product and respect your service. They are not easily won over, but once you have earned their patronage, they remain true. The evidence is their willingness to stand in long lines.
Untapped Paris is excited to announce an exclusive contest to win a 5-course sit-down tasting session on July 2nd, specially prepared by Chef André Chiang of Restaurant Andre, listed by the New York Times as one of the top “10 Restaurants in the World Worth a Plane Ride.”
Click here to enter contest
I would love for you to celebrate the fifth anniversary of Eye Prefer Paris with me, so please join me at the fabulous, newly opened O'Chateau wine bar on Wednesday, July 6 between 7PM and 9PM. The address of O'Chateau is 68, rue Jean-Jacques Rousseau, Metro: Louvre-Rivoli or Etienne Marcel. I look forward to seeing you and meeting some of my readers I have never met before. Please RSVP to [email protected]
In addition to my Eye Prefer Paris Tours, we now offer Eye Prefer New York Tours, 3-hour walking tours of New York's best neighborhoods including Soho, Meatpacking/West Village & Tribeca. Tours cost $195 for up to 3 people and $65 for each additional person.Come take a bit of the Big Apple on an Eye Prefer New York Tour!
Come experience my blog ìliveî with my Eye Prefer Paris Tours, which are 3-hour walking tours I lead. The Eye Prefer Paris Tour includes many of the places I have written about such as small museums & galleries, restaurants, cafes & food markets, secret addresses, fashion & home boutiques, parks, and much more.Tours cost 195 euros for up to 3 people, and 65 euros for each additional person. I look forward to meeting you on my tours and it will be my pleasure and delight to show you my insiders Paris. www.eyepreferparistours.com
New! Eye Prefer Paris Cooking Classes
I am happy to announce the launch of Eye Prefer Paris Cooking Classes. Come take an ethnic culinary journey with me and chef and caterer Charlotte Puckette, co-author of the bestseller The Ethnic Paris Cookbook (with Olivia Kiang-Snaije). First we will shop at a Paris green-market for the freshest ingredients and then return to Charlotteís professional kitchen near the Eiffel Tower to cook a three-course lunch. After, we will indulge in the delicious feast we prepared along with hand-selected wines.
Cost: 185 euros per person (about $240)
Time: 9:30AM- 2PM (approximately 4 1/2 hours)
Location: We will meet by a metro station close to the market
Class days: Tuesday,Wednesday, Thursday, and Friday
Minimum of 2 students, maximum 6 students.
Click here to sign up for the next class or for more info.
