I Prefer Paris:

« January 2011 | Main | March 2011 »

February 09, 2011

Sweet Week 3: La Cure Gourmande

On the gray winter streets of Ile St. Louis, La Cure Gourmande is a beacon of sunshine with its mustard colored painted facade, blinding lights, and technicolor interior. Peering into the window you can see mounds of candies and cookies stacked almost to infinity and at once your are tempted to enter.

Once inside it's a barrage of color, candy, and cutesy. The smiling salesgirl in her mustard apron emblazoned with the shop's logo offers me a cookie from her tin and I of course take one. It's tasty but nothing special. On the left side are deep glass bins with individually, cheerfully wrapped berlandises (hard candies) practically toppling over the sides in about a dozen flavors including some unusual ones like fig. In the center is an island with hundreds of biscuits and cookies and in the back, another display is knee-deep with enough choupettes (lollipops) to suck on for a lifetime. The rest of the shop offers caramels, nougat, chocolates, and calissons (marzipan diamonds) and the shelves above them are brimming with all kinds of colored tins with Norman Rockwell-esque illustrations with happy children playing. They also have a favorite chocolate delicacy of mine from the south of France, chocolate olives in green, black, and brown, and you can dole out the olives with an authentic wooden olive ladle.

The dangerous part about La Cure Gourmande is that they hand you large paper bags so you pick out your own candies and then weigh them. I don't know about you, but my eyes are always bigger than my stomach and wallet and leaving me to my own devices, I can easily fill more bags than a supermarket checker at rush hour and could end up spending 100 euros on penny candies. I was very selective and chose just 10 berlandises which cost 2.20 euros.They were good quality and I found the centers fruity and tangy.

The shop focuses more on candy and confections rather than chocolate, so die-hard chocaholics will be disappointed. Started in the south of France in 1989, La Cure Gourmande boasts over 100 shops in France with five in Paris.

For me La Cure Gourmande is all about the packaging and presentation and it's kind of like going to Disneyworld and Candy Land at the same time.

55 rue Saint Louis en Iile, Ile St. Louis, 4th arr.
Metro: Pont Marie or St. Paul
http://www.la-cure-gourmande.fr

One of our students from Eye Prefer Paris Cooking Classes, Judy Warner, wrote the nicest review of the class and my tours on her blog http://www.explorationsinquilting.com. Click here to read.

In addition to my Eye Prefer Paris Tours, we now offer Eye Prefer New York Tours, 3-hour walking tours of New Yorkís best neighborhoods including Soho, Meatpacking/West Village & Tribeca. Tours cost $195 for up to 3 people and $65 for each additional person.Come take a bit of the Big Apple on an Eye Prefer New York Tour!

Come experience my blog ìliveî with my Eye Prefer Paris Tours, which are 3-hour walking tours I lead. The Eye Prefer Paris Tour includes many of the places I have written about such as small museums & galleries, restaurants, cafes & food markets, secret addresses, fashion & home boutiques, parks, and much more.Tours cost 195 euros for up to 3 people, and 65 euros for each additional person. I look forward to meeting you on my tours and it will be my pleasure and delight to show you my insiders Paris. www.eyepreferparistours.com

New! Eye Prefer Paris Cooking Classes
I am happy to announce the launch of Eye Prefer Paris Cooking Classes. Come take an ethnic culinary journey with me and chef and caterer Charlotte Puckette, co-author of the bestseller The Ethnic Paris Cookbook (with Olivia Kiang-Snaije). First we will shop at a Paris green-market for the freshest ingredients and then return to Charlotteís professional kitchen near the Eiffel Tower to cook a three-course lunch. After, we will indulge in the delicious feast we prepared along with hand-selected wines.

Cost: 185 euros per person (about $240)
Time: 9:30AM- 2PM (approximately 4 1/2 hours)
Location: We will meet by a metro station close to the market
Class days: Tuesday,Wednesday, Thursday, and Friday
Minimum of 2 students, maximum 6 students.

Click here to sign up for the next class or for more info.

February 09, 2011 in Pastry & Chocolate | Permalink | Comments (3)

February 08, 2011

Sweet Week 3: Un Dimanche a Paris

Last November I was on a St. Germain des Pres tour with some clients and while we were in Cour du Commerce, an ancient passage off the Blvd. St. Germain near Odeon, I stumbled upon Un Dimanche a Paris, a sparkling new chocolate shop I had not seen before. The shop seemed to not be open yet but full of workers milling about. I tapped on the door because I am always interested in any new chocolate shop and the woman who let me in handed me their card and said the shop would be open next week.

A few weeks later I had an errand to do nearby and called to see if I can get a tour of the premises and maybe some samples so I can write about it. The woman on the phone said that I lucked out because it was the very day for the press opening and there would be tastings, which was the sweetest music to my ears, and a chance to meet the owner.

When I walked in I was warmly greeted by the staff and the woman I spoke to on the phone brought me upstairs to meet the owner, Pierre Cluizel. Pierre Cluizel is the son of one of the most respected chocolatiers in Paris, Michel Cluziel. Tall, spoke spoken, and elegantly dressed, Pierre told me he sold his shares 15 months ago in the family business he had worked in for 25 years and decided to follow his dream to open up a total chocolate concept shop. Engrossed in our conversation, he asked me if I would like some hot chocolate and a few minutes later out came a beautiful white porcelain pot with a wooden handle with a a matching cup and a slim espresso colored platter with the most sumptuous pastries. As I was downing the velvety, astounding hot chocolate and pigging out on the pastries, Pierre explained he wanted to create a space with the total chocolate experience that would include a retail shop, a restaurant, and a lounge/cocktail space. He brought in chef William Caumisson to create a menu where all the dishes would have some form of chocolate in them. The lounge upstairs would have a menu of cocktails that all contained chocolate in them also. Pierre told me the history of the passage and that the white stone wall behind the curved glass wall next to us was part of a tower from 1290. A few minutes later someone came up to tell Pierre it was time for the press lunch and wanted to know if I wanted to join them. Well, I thought I died and went to heaven.

Pierre Cluizel

The luxurious, tastefully appointed dining room with creamy stone floors, leather tufted chairs, and the historic stone wall softly backlit felt like a private dining room at an exclusive club. The 6-course tasting menu was incredible from start to finish with such interesting and unexpected flavors, textures, and presentation, and each dish had a subtle hint of chocolate.

The menu:
Pumpkin soup with a cracker topped with Iberian ham
Raw discs of swordfish with salad
Veal with apple sauce and whipped potatoes
Codfish in a broth
White chocolate squares layered with soft Roquefort cheese topped with chocolate Balsamic vinegar
A selection of pastries by pastry chef Quentin Bailly

I must say Un Dimanche a Paris is the most gorgeous chocolate shop in Paris next to Jacques Genin, which I wrote about a few years ago. The spacious, pristine retail space has the most mouth-watering selection of pastries,chocolates, and macarons displayed on glass trays with flowers imbedded on them on an immaculate white counter. In addition to traditional French pastries, they offer American style chocolate chip cookies and small cups of the fantastic hot chocolate are available to go.The macarons are oversized and rival the ones at Pierre Hermé, which I think are the best in Paris.

I applaud Pierre Cluizel for his impeccable taste, attention to the minutest detail, and for so successfully fulfilling his dream with this fabulous and dramatic chocolate world he has created.

As I was leaving and not wanting this heavenly experience to end, I was handed a shopping bag with press materials and two boxes of chocolates. Now I knew for sure I had died and gone to chocolate heaven.

Un Dimanche a Paris
4-6-8 Cour de Commerce Saint André, 6th arr.
Metro: Odeon
Tel. 01 56 81 18 18
www.un-dimanche-a-paris.com

Photos of the lunch

February 08, 2011 in Pastry & Chocolate | Permalink | Comments (6)

February 07, 2011

Sweet Week 3: Meert

It's that time of the year again: Sweet Week. I have tasted my way through the sweet shops and chocolate boutiques of Paris in the last year elevating my sugar count to dangerous levels so I can share the newest and greatest places with you.The sacrifices I make for my readers knows no limits. I know you have been saving your calories since the beginning of the year so you can join me for Sweet Week 2011, so enjoy the ride down sugar mountain this week. It's like the game Candy Land coming alive.

The confiserie Meert was one of the highlights of my trip to Lille two years ago. I remember how taken I was but the shop's decor, packaging, endless variety of sweets in all forms, and its old world charm.

I was thrilled when I learned that Meert recently opened a branch in the Marais right near the Picasso museum. Funnily enough, the store had been fully re-done but laid empty for over 2 years and every time I passed I was intrigued by what kind of merchandise was going into this stunningly decorated shop.

I don't know what I was more dazzled by: the impeccable detailing of the shop including the trompe l'oeil drawings on the walls of different sweets, the tall glass jars nestled with sugar coated goodies, the glistening packaging with colored foils and shiny satin ribbon, or the dizzying array of confections including guimauves (flavored colored marshmallows), chocolates, caramels, confitures, pain d'epices (spice bread), cookies, biscuits, jelly candies, nougat, marron glaces (candied chestnuts), glazed fruits, and chocolate covered orange peel & whole oranges. My eye didn't know where to look next as every nook and cranny had something beautiful and interesting to over-stimulate my senses.

One of the things Meert is most famous for are the gauffres (waffles), which were a favorite of President Charles DeGaulle, who grew up in Lille. The gauffres are stacked in a lucite box, much like a modern day cookie jar, on the white marble counter and are sandwiched with either vanilla cream or speculoos, which is a Dutch shortbread. I opted for the vanilla, and although it was very tasty, I found it a little too sugary for my taste.

I know this is a really bad pun, but I had no choice: I will meert you there anytime!

Meert
16 rue Elzevir 3d. arr.
Metro: St. Paul
Open Tuesday to Saturday, late afternoon on Sunday
www.meert.fr

The white hammer is used to break the nougat

Gauffres

February 07, 2011 in Pastry & Chocolate | Permalink | Comments (1)

February 03, 2011

Modern Architecture in 13th Arr.

It was a clear, crisp, not too cold Sunday a few weeks ago and I decided to come out of hibernation and out of my limited arrondissement comfort zone to visit a mostly unfamiliar area, the 13th arrondissement. I read somewhere there was an obscure Le Corbusier building and some good Vietnamese restaurants, so that was enough alone to get me going. I took the #7 metro to Porte d'Ivry and when I walked upstairs I felt I was in a different city. There were no tree-lined avenues filled with luxurious Haussmann apartment buildings and their elaborate ironwork terraces or no quaint ancient stone buildings like in the Marais or the Latin quarter.They were replaced with urban modern buildings with glass and steel and brick warehouse buildings with graffiti scrawled on them and a tramway. Cities like Berlin, London, and New York came to mind.

The first building that attracted me was an deco-style apartment complex Residence Massena. I forgot the name and specific address of the Le Corbusier building and walking through the complex, I thought this was it because it had many Le Corbusier architectural references such as the glass bricks,curved white stucco walls, and colored doors. I didn't see any historical signs or signposts saying Le Corbusier had built it, so I wasn't really sure. When I had returned home later I discovered that the Le Corbusier house was right across the street and I had missed it. I wasn't disappointed I missed it and was happy with my Le Corbusier knockoff.

Walking down rue Nationale there was a slew of Vietnamese restaurants and I chose Pho Bida Viet Nam. It was crowded with Asian diners and the prices on the menu were all under 10 euros, so I figured I couldn't miss. I had a tasty and savory dish with beef, noodles, and raw salad and it was satisfying.

Next I discovered a striking, indescribable modern building with a unique keyhole effect. My journey also took me down some charming alleyways with the sweetest, single family houses, which I will write about in another post soon.

Pho Bida Viet Nam
36-38 rue Nationale, 13th arr.
Metro: Port d'Ivry or Olympiades
Open 10AM-11PM everyday

Sure looks like Le Corbusier to me.

February 03, 2011 in Architecture | Permalink | Comments (6)

February 02, 2011

5 Paris Safety Tips

A friend of mine's mother was recently pick-pocketed while waiting on line at the Louvre and thieves got all her money and credit credits. This incident prompted me to write a post about safety tips in Paris. Paris is pretty much a safe city all around especially with violent crime. However, like any big tourist city, there is a population that thrives on stealing from or scamming innocent tourists. Here are 5 safety tips so your trip won't be ruined by a pickpocket or thief.

1. Never carry your passport. Have a copy of it in your bag or pocket or you can keep the number in your phone or on a slip of paper in your wallet. You don't really need it as long as you have another photo ID such as a drivers license. Also, you don't need your passport to get the VAT refund at shops, as long as you have the number to put on the VAT form.

2. Always keep cash in your front pants pocket or a money belt if you are not wearing pants. Don't put cash in a purse, hand bag, or knapsack.

3. Beware of pickpockets in busy tourist areas/attractions like the Louvre, Notre Dame, outside Sacre Coeur, the Eiffel Tower,the flea market, and the Champs Elysees. Also beware in the metro and train stations Gard du Nord, Montparnasse, Gare de Lyon, etc.

4. The ring trick. Beware of men and women who come up from behind and "discover" a gold ring on the sidewalk in front of you. They will innocently tell you that you should keep it and then try to extract money from you. Just ignore them. Also beware of people coming up to you and asking if you speak English. Again, they will try and extract money from you and just ignore them even if you think you are being rude.

5. Unfortunately there has been a rash of I-Phone and smart phone robberies on the metro lately. I just heard of a friend who took his I-Phone out on the metro to call someone and thieves grabbed his phone as the doors were closing. Try and not take your phone out in the metro or on the platforms unless it's absolutely necessary, especially at night. Also, don't leave it out on the table at a restaurant or cafe. There's a new trick where someone will come over to your table and lay a newspaper or magazine over your phone and start to talk to you and then they will quickly grab the newspaper or magazine with your phone and leave.

February 02, 2011 in Insider Tips | Permalink | Comments (9)

February 01, 2011

February Eye Need to Do's: Henri Huet, Salon de Agriculture, Mondrian, & Caligula

Henri Huet: Vietnam
Award winning Associated Press photographer Henri Huet is having a major show of 71 of his searing photos of the Vietnam War, many never seen before. Huet tragically died in a helicopter crash in 1971 in Laos and the show is a 40th anniversary tribute to the courageous journalist who captured these images that forever chronicle the unforgettable effects of war.

February 9 to April 3
La maison Européenne de la Photographie
5 rue de Fourcy, 4th arr.
Metro: St. Pauln
Open 11AM-8PM, Wednesday to Sunday
http://www.mep-fr.org/us/

Salon de Agriculture
Attention all foodies, Attention all foodies: Salon de Agriculture is one of the best food shows you will ever attend. Taste your way through over 1,000 exhibitors and 700 producers from France who give away free samples of foie gras,wine, cheese, and meats. There are also 4,500 farm animals on display with an aquarium, doghouse, pony village, and last but not least a pig village. (Is that where Porky lives?).If you miss Green Acres farm life there's a full scale working farm. It's on for nine days, so bring elastic waisted pants!

February 19-27
Porte de Versailles
Metro: Porte de Versailles
9am-9PM, Friday February 25 till 11PM
http://www.salon-agriculture.com/

Mondrian/De Stijl
Don't miss Mondrian/De Stijl, a sweeping and astounding exhibit following the progress of one of the most important artists and art movements of the 20th century. The highlight of the show is the recreation of Mondrian's studio on 26 rue de Depart in Montparnasse.

Centre Pompidou
Place Georges Pompidou,4th arr.
Metro: Rambuteau or Hotel de Ville
Open Wednesday to Monday 11AM-9PM
http://www.centrepompidou.fr/

Caligula
Nicolas Riche first created this ballet for the Paris Opera in 2005. The tale of the decadent Roman emperor Caligula is set to the invigorating Four Seasons by Vivaldi.