My good friend Elizabeth Topper from Los Angeles arrived in Paris in mid December to stay for a month. The first thing she wanted to do was to go to a chocolate shop in Pigalle she read about that was the only shop outside of Lyon that sold a particular kind of chocolate bar. It takes alot for me to schlep to Pigalle with my legs weary from non-stop touring for weeks, but suddenly my legs felt light and nimble enough to discover a new chocolate shop.
We arrived about 2PM and the outside of A l'Etoile d'Or looked like a typical old fashioned candy shop. Once inside we unearthed the treasures Elizabeth pined for: a table filled with over a dozen varieties of some very serious looking chocolate bars named Bernachon with a hefty price tag: 10 euros each. Just like the cupcake store,I had the torturous task of disciplining myself to only pick one but once I decided to buy it as a stocking stuffer for Vincent instead or myself, it was double torture. Agonizing between flavors of Fondant Nature, Super amer, Fondant amer, Orange, Aveline, Noisette, Créole, Nougat, Canelle, Café, Pépito, Amandine, Brésilien, Mendiant, Nougatine, Antillais, and Pacha, I chose the Cafe. I knew it would be another two weeks until I would get a taste, so I looked to see what would satisfy my sweet tooth at that moment. Madame Acabo, the owner of the shop, a middle aged woman looking like a naughty school girl sporting blond pigtails, Tartan plaid tie with matching skirt, and black V-neck sweater said we must try the Leroux caramels from Britanny. Even though the caramels came in so many enticing flavors including orange/ginger, tarte tatin, tea, and pineapple, Madame Acabo wisely advised the salted butter flavor and we were not disappointed. The sweet, smoky smooth taste assaulted our taste buds in an amazing way and the salty aftertaste brought the experience to an orgasmic level.
Madam Acabo showed us some of the other treats in the store and grinning proudly,she showed off her scrap book of magazine articles and cookbooks that her shop had been featured in. We took our time to explore every chocolate nook and candy cranny so we wouldn't miss a thing. Bergamot flavored hard candy from Nancy in red picturesque tins, nougat blocks in gold foil looking like they belonged in Fort Knox, a huge bowl of marron glace(candied chestnuts) squares, and gold ceramic baby shoes stuffed with sucking candy were all fighting to get my attention, screaming "Buy me! Taste me!".
Madame Acabo proudly showing off her rave reviews
When I calmed down from my mental and physical sweet rush, I noticed how quaint and colorful the shop was with ornate Belle Epoque style wood counters,marvelous mosaic floors of teal, rose, and citron colored tiles, and white marble counter tops. All the candy and chocolates looked so festive packaged in red and gold foil, red and hunter green satin ribbons, and pewter ballotins.
After about an hour of being sweet heaven, we forced ourselves to leave, even though we seriously thought of hiding somewhere in the store so we could be locked in overnight. I could just see it now, Madame Acabo would find us passed out on the floor in a sugar coma with chocolate dripping from the sides of our mouths and a chocolate bar that the paramedics couldn't pry from our fingers.
P.S. Vincent loved the cafe chocolate bar and of course I got a taste. Sinsational!
A L'Etoile d'Or
30 rue Fontaine, 9th arr.
Metro: Blanche
Tel. 01 4 74 59 55
Open daily except Sunday and sometimes Monday morning
I am happy to announce the launch of Eye Prefer Paris Cooking Classes. Come take an ethnic culinary journey with me and chef and caterer Charlotte Puckette, author of the bestseller The Ethnic Paris Cookbook. First we will shop at a Paris green-market for the freshest ingredients and then return to Charlotte’s professional kitchen near the Eiffel Tower to cook a three-course lunch. After, we will indulge in the delicious feast we prepared along with hand-selected wines.
Cost: 185 euros per person (about $240)
Time: 9:30AM- 2PM (approximately 4 1/2 hours)
Location: We will meet by a metro station close to the market
Class days: Wednesday, Thursday, Saturday, and Sunday
Minimum of 3 students, maximum 6 students.
Click here to sign up for the next class or for more info.
I am pleased as punch to announce the launch of Eye Prefer Paris Tours, which are 3-hour walking tours I will personally be leading. The Eye Prefer Paris Tour includes many of the places I have written about such as small museums & galleries, restaurants, cafes & food markets, secret addresses, fashion & home boutiques, parks, and much more.
I look forward to meeting you on my tours and it will be my pleasure and delight to show you my insiders Paris.
Check it out at www.eyepreferparistours.com
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