In case I wasn't high enough on chocolate and caramel from visiting l'Etoile D'Or, I got wind of a brand new chocolate & pastry shop/cafe in the Marais and had to visit the same day.
I walked to the northernmost tip of rue de Turenne to the last store on the street and came upon a gleaming white stucco building with a series of elaborate Christmas decorations festooned across the top and windows that had bold white block letters spelling out nougat, chocolat, caramel, and eclair. I already knew I was in trouble.
If there was ever an official Temple of chocolate and pastry, Jacques Genin would be it. It truly is one of the most beautiful, pristine spaces devoted to the art of chocolate and pastry I have ever been in, and believe me I've seen them all. Even before I tasted anything I was knocked out by the stunning interior of blond hardwood floors, handsome elephant gray leather armchairs, milk glass vases filled with impeccable orchid arrangements, a white stone archway dating back from the 9th century, rose stems embedded in the walls and most striking of all, the spectacular winding steel staircase.
Once I absorbed the gorgeous interior, I got down to the business of the chocolate and pastries. The first case had a stainless steel tray with flawless pastries including a pecan tart, Paris Brest with chocolate cream, and seven layer chocolate cake. Next up were the chocolates which were small squares prettily embossed with delicate patterns and colors of orange, mint green,mango, pink, and raspberry. The affable man behind the counter asked if I wanted to sample a chocolate and I emphatically said OUI! He described the exotic flavor combinations in detail which included Tiarei, a ganache with Tahitian vanilla, Tonka Teck, another ganache with tonka beans, Bergame, with bergamot, Passionement, with passion fruit, and Thé Toi, with Wu long tea. I chose the Hesperides, milk chocolate with grapefruit. It was light and refreshing but still solid chocolate. I bought yet another chocolate stocking stuffer for Vincent and purchased an assortment that came in a smart brushed steel square tin, which I knew he would love since he's a packaging nut.
At one point I was introduced to Jacques Genin, the chef and the architect Guilluame Leclerc and I congratulated them on their beautiful shop, wishing them much success.Guillame asked me if I wanted to see the kitchen upstairs.I learned Jacques was one of the best chocolatiers in Paris but never had a storefront before. I was thrilled beyond belief and we climbed the stairway to heaven to see where they made the glorious goodies. Just as we entered one room a man was stirring hazelnuts into a bowl of caramel and I then watched him pour the hot,molten liquid it into a tray to cool. I can't even describe the smell but let's say it was enough to make me almost faint. Another room which was temperature controlled was the ganache room. I think every house should now have one. I was offered a sample from every room we visited, never wanting this dream to end.
Seeming to have fulfilled a chocoholics dream day I went home with a big smile on my face and my sweet tooth never happier.
Jacques Genin
133 rue de Turenne, 3 arr.
Metro: Files Calvaire
Tel. 01 45 77 29 01
Open daily 11AM-7PM except Monday
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All this talk of chocolate is making my tastebuds excited -- I think it's time to plan a trip to Paris!
Posted by: Robin Kerr Drulard | January 14, 2009 at 03:13 PM
Everything about this post is gorgeous! The shop interior looks like a place they'd sell precious jewels. This will definitely go on my 'must do' list for my next Paris trip.
Posted by: Evelyn | January 14, 2009 at 04:04 PM
I don't know which I want more: the goodies or the rose stem embedded walls! This shop is a feast for the senses.
Posted by: from cali | January 14, 2009 at 06:46 PM
I just wanted to say how much I enjoyed reading this post and how green with envy I am that you can visit this shop whenever you want!
The interior is stunning, I want the rose stem embedded walls...
Keep them coming.
From Charlotte at Open House!
Posted by: Account Deleted | January 15, 2009 at 11:07 AM
My mother was a restaurateur and chocolatier. She opened her post-Great Depression restaurant decades before I was born, and as ridiculous as it sounds, it became too successful too fast. Within a couple of weeks she´d seduced all the other restaurants´ customers away with the delectable aromas issuing from her restaurant door, and her natural but savory steamed and grilled foods, that businessmen claimed were not only delighting their taste buds but also curing their ulcers. Tragically, without proper infrastructure and reliable staff she couldn´t handle the crowds and sadly had to give up.
Her second passion, candies, were also a smash success. I remember her turning out all the glorious confections you can buy at the world´s best chocolatiers, in our big brownstone kitchen, all with natural ingredients. No chemicals or additives ever passed my mama´s hands. Clients came from far and near to buy. Those flavors, like her cuisine, prejudice my taste buds whenever I eat out or buy chocolates. Mama´s decision to cook for others and make candies arose from her disappointment in others´ efforts. Her battle cry after a disappointing restaurant meal or box of chocolates was always: ¨I can do better than that.¨ And, she did, without training or study. She simply possessed a natural ability to make good things to eat. Only France could and did meet her exacting standards, although she also enjoyed some of Italy´s delicacies.
Thanks as always for your lovely descriptions.
Posted by: Sandra | January 15, 2009 at 07:10 PM
I love reading your postings, and share your love of Paris. Whenever I need a lift I turn to your site for the latest news and musings.
Posted by: SHERRY | January 17, 2009 at 10:01 PM
I just wanted to thank you for your information concerning Jacques Genin's new location for his wonderful chocolates and pastry. It was truly a memorable experience to taste (devour) the chocolate eclair with caramel filling--expensive, but worth every luscious bite and absolutely superior to every other eclair that we checked out.
Thank you again for your insights--I gather them together before I visit and they are indispensable.
Posted by: Arlene | November 12, 2009 at 05:10 PM