Les Cocottes

I've made two attempts to have lunch at Les Cocottes in the last year and have not been very successful. The first time I arrived at 3PM, too late for lunch but they offered to make me a Croque Monsieur. It was one of the best I've ever had,  with thick, creamy, gooey melted cheese and and crunchy toast. I figured if a simple Croque Monsieur is this good then the cocottes must be sensational. The second time I arrived late again and was told they had stopped serving.

The third time worked like a charm and I arrived before 2PM. It was still packed with hungry diners and I squeezed myself into the last seat at the counter. The waiter efficiently rattled off the entree and plat of the day. Pork ribs sounded appetizing but I waited to look at the full menu. I was surprised it had only four cocottes, considering it was their specialty. Chicken with rice pilaf, potato confit with pigs feet, and seasonal vegetables all looked tasty but I chose the crusty codfish with carrots and potatoes. It was a damp, gray raw day and it was the perfect thing to order.

I munched on some crusty on the outside, doughy on the inside bread and I saw it as a sign the upcoming meal would be good. I studied the menu further while I waited and saw that they offered a true Caesar salad, which was important information since most Caesar salads in Paris are disappointing bastardizations with weird added ingredients like tomatoes and string beans. I also noticed a delightful imbalance: there are nine dessert choices compared to three or four in in all the other categories. I contemplated having either the Manchego cheese with black cherry confit or the "fabulous chocolate tart by Christian Constant". While I was making my monumental dessert decision, out came a black cast iron pot and the waiter warned that it was tres chaud. I lifted off the cover and a warm aromatic steam cloud rolled up my nose. I waited a few minutes for it to cool down and dug into crusty codfish. It was crunchy but lacking salt and the potatoes and vegetables were cooked just right, soft enough to melt in your mouth with just enough firmness not to make them mushy. The place setting included a spoon which was a smart idea so I would not miss a morsel of  codfish which was so flaky it fell apart into little bits or a drop of the savory juices from the stew. The best thing about the dish was that it was hearty but not heavy.

Feeling sufficiently full, I decided against dessert and only ordered coffee because I saw it came with a Poilane butter cookie in the shape of a teaspoon. The strong coffee and my buttery spoon were a superb complement to my satisfying meal.

A new trend in restaurant  dining decor started a few years ago which I am not a big fan of: all bar stool seating. Les Cocottes is one of them and although my seat of taupe and brown leather wasn't uncomfortable, I don't think I could have lasted more than 45 minutes on it. Maybe that's the reason they have them. The rest of the decor was pleasant and pleasing to the eye with soft neutral tones of gray and beige.

I asked for the check and the waiter brought it out in a cocotte pot cover which was an adorable finishing touch.

Les Cocottes
135 rue St. Dominique, 7th arr.
Metro: Ecole Militaire
Open seven days 8AM-11PM
Tel. 01 45 50 10 31
Price range:  15-25 euros per person

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I look forward to meeting you on my tours and it will be my pleasure and delight to show you my insiders Paris.
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Comments

[amelie]

I've never been to this one of Christian Constant's restaurants, but I absolutely love Café Constant down the street. It has one of the best deal menus for such a tasty restaurant, and considering the fact that it's in the 7th (the most expensive arrondissement in Paris), it's one-of-a-kind for the value!