L'Osteria by Glynis McAndrew
Make note of this address, it is the only means of finding this noted Italian restaurant. There are no fancy menus in the window, no chalk boards displaying the day’s special, not even a name above the door [it is L’Osteria by the way]. The people who know this place keep it a closely guarded secret; indeed with its mud brown painted exterior and slightly dingy net curtains you would not give this place a second glance. UNLESS you know of the delights that come from the magic hands of the chef; then you realize your only chance of a table is by booking and on a Saturday night only if you are lucky, [The French tend to book here week to week].
L’Osteria only has seating for thirty-six people, it is long and narrow and painted a warm orange. The walls are adorned with sketches and hand written endorsements from other patrons, including chefs and film stars! It’s great fun to browse while waiting for your meal to be cooked. The one waiter greets you warmly, shows you to your table and presents, with a flourish, the menu. This is half printed half hand written, to allow for the addition of the freshest produce on the market. [It is also in Italian]. With the waiter working alone, don’t expect McDonalds style speed, sit back enjoy a glass of Chianti whilst deciding what gastronomic delights you are going to choose.
My entrée, after much thought, was bufala pomodora Basilico [fresh tangy mozzarella, tomato, rocket and basil salad) superb! My dining partner went for the prosciutto, this plate of beautifully draped, aged, wafer thin ham looked so good I could not resist sneaking a forkful…. The 20euro starter was worth every cent, my mom used to say “you get what you pay for” how right on this occasion. I could also have chosen from, fresh spider crab – out of shell – served on a bed of salad leaves, calamari or salad parmesan.
For the main course, both David [above mentioned dining partner] and I chose risotto homard. After a short wait this plate of steaming perfection arrived, it was golden from the saffron, creamy, with a hint of parmesan, flakes of lobster ran through it and a small lobster tail crowned the whole thing off. A work of art worth every mouthful.
Other choices on the main course menu included; gnocchi with fresh truffle and pappardelle homard au crabe.
By now my skirt was starting to nip around the waist but how could I leave without first doing justice to pudding. Not a large choice but I went for a fairly light panacotta with fresh raspberry coulis. The coulis was sharp and fresh a beautiful foil for the creamy panacotta. David chose Italian classic tiramisu; the generous portion was a rainbow of flavour, coffee, thick cream and alcohol [How do I know? Because of course I had to have a taste].
We drank, of course, Italian wine, a superb bottle of Chianti – Badio a Coltibuono. The wine list is extensively Italian but their robust flavours compliment the food.
The total cost of the meal for two people was 171euros.
This little Italian restaurant, that does not flaunt its presence, was full to capacity all evening. Passing trade is not an option here, people return again and again; they are greeted by first name and a hearty hug, they are friends. The traditional extended Italian family is alive and well and can be found on rue de Sevigne. To be part of this experience, remember to reserve.
10 Rue De Sevigne
Metro: St. Paul
Tel 01 42713708
Closed Sunday & Monday
Lunch 12pm – 2.30pm , Dinner from 7pm
Closed Sunday & Monday

I am pleased as punch to announce the launch of Eye Prefer Paris Tours, which are 3-hour walking tours I will personally be leading. The Eye Prefer Paris Tour
includes many of the places I have written about such as small museums & galleries, restaurants, cafes & food markets, secret addresses, fashion & home boutiques, parks, and much more.
I look forward to meeting you on my tours and it will be my pleasure and delight to show you my insiders Paris.
Check it out at www.eyepreferparistours.com
The historical chef left and opened a new restaurant : Sapido 51 Bis rue Sainte Anne in the 2nd arrondissement. (and it is as before but less expensive !)
Posted by: towa | June 21, 2008 at 11:14 AM