Fish La Boissonnerie, a former fish shop, is now a lively, homey left bank bistro that qualifies as a first in Paris I believe: It’s the only all non-smoking restaurant.
When I walked in there was no smoke and all the staff spoke English. I immediately liked it. The friendly, easy going, bartender offered me a glass of wine while I waited for my table. There was a good wine list , but the glass selection was overpriced and the 6.50 euro glass I had was barely filled half way. I didn’t have a reservation but only waited 10 minutes for a table. The low ceiling with rustic wood beams and metal table tops made the interior feel warm and cozy on this chilly winter night.
I chose the 3 course menu for 34.50 euros.I started with a delicious plate of large grilled shrimp with vanilla scented foam. The touch of vanilla gave the dish just enough of an interesting taste without overpowering it or make it taste strange. Next was filet de bar with an extra crispy crust served over a bed of spinach. Dessert was a yummy but over chilled cheesecake with a coarse graham cracker crust served with large plump raspberries.
The community tables almost forced you to talk to your neighboring diners, and I befriended two lovely women visiting from New Zealand, as we spoke about the joys of Paris.
After a satisfying meal, as I was leaving, I saw another Paris first, but probably not the last : a group of smokers huddled outside the restaurant puffing away. I say probably not the last because next year the no smoking ban in restaurants will start, but I think there will be rioting in the streets against the no smoking ban of the likes we have never seen before.
FISH LA BOISSONNERIE
69, rue de Seine,75006
Tel: 01 43 54 34 69
Closed Mondays
Lunch & Dinner
Metro: St. Germain de Pres
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I remember going to this restaurant a few years ago- I had the same mixed reaction to it. The thing that I remember most, however, was that we were pushed up tight against another table and were forced to sit through their horrible conversation. Funnily enough, the Frenchwoman was explaining all about America to her poor brow-beaten companion and telling him one ludicrous thing after another. We didn't correct her for fear that we would spend the rest of the dinner having to chat with her. Would have preferred if there was a cigarette in her mouth!
Also, this weekend on the midday news program, I saw a reportage on the restaurants in Paris that are already smoke-free. There is actually an entire reseau with a special sticker from the Mairie. I wonder if there isn't a list from the mairie somewhere on the web?
Posted by: Nicole | January 29, 2007 at 02:19 PM
I don't know if it's the first, but also Willi's Wine Bar in the 2nd was displaying prominent no-smoking signs the last time I went there, some months ago. It could become a trend, I keep meaning to try out Fish la Boissonnerie and that's a welcome incentive.
Posted by: Sebastiano Pilla | January 29, 2007 at 02:33 PM
Oh, an anti-smoking manifestation!
The only thing that bothered us was all the smoke in restaurants, but it was worse for my husband as he is an ex-smoker.
I'd love a list of the no-smoke places.
Posted by: Mimi | January 30, 2007 at 04:59 AM
Thanks Richard!
I'm not an anti-smoker. I just hate dry-cleaning bills for smoky clothing. So here are a couple of other non-smoking restos:
Chez Germaine
30 rue Pierre Leroux 7eme
Le Cherche Midi
24 rue du Cherche Midi 6eme
Posted by: Polly | January 31, 2007 at 10:35 AM