I am taking a blogging vacation this week but not leaving you high and dry without any postings or with reruns. I have invited a different guest blogger for each day, so please welcome them. Today my friend the writer, Michele Kurlander, who wrote the wonderful farewell to George Whitman from Shakespeare and Company in December, has written a very special profile about me. We spent an afternoon together about a year and a half ago prowling around the Palais Royal and the rue St. Honore finishing with a glass of Champagne at the Crillon Hotel. We had so much fun that Michele promised someday she would write an article about it, so here it is . I am most touched and honored. The photos are by Michele too. (By the way, these are my fat pictures. I have lost much weight and inches since then).
I’m returning to Paris from Chicago for another visit soon, and I hope that I again will have the opportunity to walk with Richard Nahem. Though I have never taken one of Richard’s formal “walks,” I have, indeed, walked with Richard - and it was quite the experience.
In September of 2010, I stayed in a friend’s apartment on Ile St Louis for almost two weeks and experienced Paris the way I like to - as a resident rather than a tourist. I woke up when my body decided it was time, slowly dressed and packed my small purse and backpack for the day, and then either took a cup of coffee and some fruit to the computer to write - or walked slowly down to the west end of the Ile to write in my journal while seated with a coffee and croissant at the little café at the end of the street, from which I could see Notre Dame and people watch for an hour or so.
On my way, I passed the lovely old church, school children on their way to class, and the charming little restaurants and shops that were just opening for the day.
One day, I also passed a familiar figure in a black beret, holding forth with gesticulations to several rapt listeners about a croissant shop and - voila! - I realized I was walking by Richard Nahem during one of his tours. We said “hi” and both continued on.
The next day, seated at my small table, journal in hand, I turned to look at the café’ just across the street - and there he was again - surrounded by obviously happy followers. We again waved.
Finally, a day or so later, Richard and I met on purpose. When he suggested lunch I couldn’t resist. We met on rue St. Honore and had lunch at La Regalade (while he took photos and copious notes for a review he planned).
After lunch we then strolled together towards the Petit Palais where I planned to attend the new Monet exhibit.
What I hadn’t realized, was that even a casual walk with Richard turns into an expedition where you learn that on every street there are small things to see and remember and photograph - things that you might not otherwise notice.
Walking by a restaurant on rue de Rivoli, not far from the Louvre, Richard realized that the surface of each of the little café tables sitting on the trottoir was covered with a reproduction of a painting - Renoir, Degas, Monet etc. He couldn’t resist! For the next 30 minutes (yes -I heard the words “just one more” over and over again) he walked around the tables for different angles, moved an occasional obstructing chair, and just descended into his intense photographic mode. It was fun to watch such intensity of purpose. Here is a photo of Richard taking a photo.
From there, I pointed out to Richard a beautiful doorway - not realizing the consequences. Our forward motion was again delayed for an extensive period of time, but I did have the opportunity to once more study the rare subgenus of homo sapiens known as Nahem photographius. Everyone knows how this species feels about doorways! See below for my one and only shot of the door that Richard spent ten minutes shooting from every conceivable angle. I have to admit it was a wonderful specimen. Yes, that is himself searching for his first shooting angle.
From there, we walked by a lovely garden where I photographed two people centuries apart in age in an intensely romantic clench (See below for my April and December couple clenched only the way the French can do), along with some flowers; while Richard concentrated on the intricacies of the statuary and the landscape elements.
Finally, I watched on rue des Pyramides while Richard moved slowly from angle to angle - his eye catching the best points of view for capturing images of some of the Paris street lamps he loves to find - and at the same time I found a hanging lamp set against a threatening sky where the sun emerged from its hiding place behind a cloud just for a moment as if it represented a fleeting hope in the blackness. I have used that photo for the cover of my first book of short stories - and I am ever grateful to Richard without whose eyes I would never have stopped to look.
Michele Kurlander is a 67-year-old Chicago corporate lawyer, writer, small business and women's issues advocate (past president of the Chicago Area Chapter of the National Association of Women Business Owners) mother of three grown children, and grandma of six. She fell in love with France and all things French many years ago when she first traveled to Europe as the chaperone of a younger cousin in 1967. She travels back to France at least once each year ( often two and three times), whenever her addiction overwhelms her. and keeps up her far from fluent but passable French by reading detective stories by George Simenon about Inspector Maigret. Some of her fondest memories of Paris are (i) sleeping on a bench on the third floor of Shakespeare & Co. one year, and waking to the bells of Notre Dame; (ii) spending her "big" birthdays (50, 60, and 65) in France (the first two entirely in Paris, the most recent both in Paris and in an old stone cottage in a small hamlet in the Aveyron).
In addition to my Eye Prefer Paris Tours, we now offer Eye Prefer New York Tours, 3-hour walking tours of New York's best neighborhoods including Soho, Meatpacking/West Village & Tribeca. Tours cost $195 for up to 3 people and $65 for each additional person.Come take a bit of the Big Apple on an Eye Prefer New York Tour!
Come experience my blog ìliveî with my Eye Prefer Paris Tours, which are 3-hour walking tours I lead. The Eye Prefer Paris Tour includes many of the places I have written about such as small museums & galleries, restaurants, cafes & food markets, secret addresses, fashion & home boutiques, parks, and much more.Tours cost 195 euros for up to 3 people, and 65 euros for each additional person. I look forward to meeting you on my tours and it will be my pleasure and delight to show you my insiders Paris. www.eyepreferparistours.com
New! Eye Prefer Paris Cooking Classes
I am happy to announce the launch of Eye Prefer Paris Cooking Classes. Come take an ethnic culinary journey with me and chef and caterer Charlotte Puckette, co-author of the bestseller The Ethnic Paris Cookbook (with Olivia Kiang-Snaije). First we will shop at a Paris green-market for the freshest ingredients and then return to Charlotteís professional kitchen near the Eiffel Tower to cook a three-course lunch. After, we will indulge in the delicious feast we prepared along with hand-selected wines.
Cost: 185 euros per person (about $240)
Time: 9:30AM- 2PM (approximately 4 1/2 hours)
Location: We will meet by a metro station close to the market
Class days: Tuesday,Wednesday, Thursday, and Friday
Minimum of 2 students, maximum 6 students.
Click here to sign up for the next class or for more info.








