My Private Eye: La Pagode

 An Incurable Romantic by Mary Duncan 

 Paris is the city for incurable romantics and I include myself in this category. From the Medici Fountain in Luxembourg Gardens to Abelard and Heloise in Pere Lachaise cemetery, Paris abounds with love stories, some happy and some tragic. What impresses me is Paris’s ability to transform these historical and romantic events into monuments, parks and places for us to enjoy.

 La Pagode, a movie theater located at 57 bis rue de Babylone, a quiet street in the Seventh Arrondisement, is within walking distance from my apartment. On warm afternoons, I stroll over there, past the seventeenth century buildings, usually with a New Yorker Magazine under my arm. I sit in the Japanese tea garden, order a café or glass of juice, and enjoy the tranquility offered by the towering bamboo and sheltering trees.

Beneath the tranquility lies a romantic and a rather tumultuous past.  In 1896, Monsieur Morin, a love struck husband, had the pagoda imported from Japan, piece by piece, stone by stone, for his new bride as a wedding gift.  Mr. Morin, an owner of the Le Bon Marche department store, already had a good eye for architecture. Le Bon Marche, designed by Gustav Eiffel, opened nearby on Rue de Sevres in 1852.

For several years Madame Morin entertained guests in the giant ballroom with its elaborate dome and ornate ceiling. Her guests were surrounded by tapestries, stained-glass windows, chandeliers, paintings and an abundance of gold gilt that created an oriental atmosphere. La Pagode was truly a magnificent monument designed to say, “I love you.”

Alas, the Morins were divorced. In the 1930’s La Pagode became a dance hall for parties and private events.  Eventually it was transformed into a movie theater.

And like many romantic liaisons, La Pagode has also had its difficulties. In the Seventies, when it was slated for demolition, a movie theater company saved it and later sold it to new owners.  In the Nineties, plans were made to convert it into a restaurant. The Ministry of Culture intervened and designated it as an historical building, with the understanding that it remain as a movie theater. The gardens were restored and the theater was modernized without destroying the beautiful oriental décor. Once again, Paris took a romantic story with a sad ending, and created a space for romance to continue and flourish.

Monsieur and Madame Morin are no longer there to greet guests, but Mais is.  Mais, a small, beautiful black cat appeared in the garden seven years ago. Abandoned and hungry, she was adopted by the staff and named Mais, the French word for cereal or corn, because they fed her corn flakes on that cold, frosty morning.

 

 

Now, you can visit the tea garden, drink coffee, eat pastries and pet Mais, who appreciates sharing your café crème. She fits well in the Oriental garden with its tall bamboo, stone walkways and secluded benches which shelter lovers from prying eyes.

While I was writing notes for this article, she wound herself between my legs and was appreciative of the milk that I poured on my plate. When there is a breeze, she entertains herself by chasing leaves or playing with small bamboo shoots. Watching her can be as amusing as some of the films.  

The movies, which vary in content and style, are not your latest thrillers. Instead,  comedies with Woody Allen or films directed by Ken Loach are displayed on posters in the lobby.  Tickets are 8.50 E.

Couples are seen sharing a coffee and unfortunately, talking or checking their emails on meddlesome mobile phones (my bias). Hopefully they’re viewing text messages from their lovers or setting up a rendezvous for an intimate evening or cinq a sept.

 I encourage you to stop by for coffee, a film or an opportunity to discreetly observe the couples sharing a few moments together. Better yet, bring your own lover, hold hands and enjoy the romantic ambiance created by Monsieur Morin for his young bride.

Mary Duncan, the founder and coordinator of the Paris Writers Group, is the author of Henry Miller is Under My Bed: People and Places on the Way to Paris. (Starhaven, 2008).  She has also been involved with organizing the Shakespeare and Company Literary Festival since it’s inception in 2003. 

 

 

 

New! Eye Prefer Paris Cooking Classes
I am happy to announce the launch of Eye Prefer Paris Cooking Classes. Come take an ethnic culinary journey with me and chef and caterer Charlotte Puckette, author of the bestseller The Ethnic Paris Cookbook. First we will shop at a Paris green-market for the freshest ingredients and then return to Charlotte’s professional kitchen near the Eiffel Tower to cook a three-course lunch. After, we will indulge in the delicious feast we prepared along with hand-selected wines.

Cost: 185 euros per person (about $240)
Time: 9:30AM- 2PM (approximately 4 1/2 hours)
Location: We will meet by a metro station close to the market
Class days: Wednesday, Thursday, Saturday, and Sunday
Minimum of 3 students, maximum 6 students.

Click here to sign up for the next class or for more info.

I am pleased as punch to announce the launch of Eye Prefer Paris Tours, which are 3-hour walking tours I will personally be leading. The Eye Prefer Paris Tour includes many of the places I have written about such as small museums & galleries, restaurants, cafes & food markets, secret addresses, fashion & home boutiques, parks, and much more.

I look forward to meeting you on my tours and it will be my pleasure and delight to show you my insiders Paris.
Check it out at www.eyepreferparistours.com

Comments

[anne]

Hi Richard, I was there a couple of weeks ago, well when I say there,I walked past it, and took a few photos. I have told my friends who live in Paris to go and have tea!! It was a lovely little find, a surprise!

[Style Spy]

No pictures of Mais?? Meow!!

[Polly-Vous Francais]

Oh how I miss La Pagode! I used to joke that I could slip into La Pagode in my pjs because it was around the corner from my apartment. Heh. I kinda wasn't joking, if my coat was long enough!

Another cultural tip - La Pagode also is one of the Parisian movie houses that still has ouvreuses (ushers) who expect a tip for showing you to a seat -- that's how they're paid. Good to know. I usually tipped 25 - 50 centimes, and I hope that was appropriate.