Lille Part Three: Great Food Finds

Although my visit to Lille was short, I did discover two great food finds.

Meert is a sensational old world patisserie, confiserie, ice cream parlor,salon de tea, and restaurant, a visual delight and a gastronomic treat for the sweet tooth. Opened in 1761, it became reputable for its ice cream and the count of Lille declared it the best in the world. I came across Meert on Friday night after the patisserie part was closed and I nearly broke the glass to get a taste of the amazing looking chocolates and sweets. I contained myself and went the next morning for breakfast, although I did dream of Meert and counted different flavors of chocolate truffles instead of sheep to get to sleep.

The Louis XVI style tearoom built in 1908 is most inviting with its creamy vanilla walls, high ceilings and plush forest green velvet chairs. I enjoyed a strong put-hair-on-your-chest coffee served on fine white china and a flaky, but not too buttery croissant. The icing on the cake was they served three chocolates along with the coffee and croissant. You have to love a place that serves chocolate with your morning breakfast.

I quickly finished so I could fully give myself over to the patisserie and chocolate shop. I could have spent the whole day there but my boring, rational mind said I had to get the 1:24 train back to Paris. The shop had only been open for 30 minutes so I watched  the the staff stock the shelves with the most beautiful tarts, and glazed, fruit topped loaf cakes and brioche as my sweet tooth reared its ugly, ravenous head. I tore myself away from the patisserie to visit the chocolate, tea, and sweet shop next door. I savored the precious moments I had and took in (without sampling anything believe it or not!) the boxes of pastel colored marshmallows, chocolate bars in foil resembling gold bricks, appetizing jars of jams, and stacked boxes of intriguing caramels.

Elegant tearoom at Meert

Pastries & sweets at Meert

My friends Jerry and Daniel from Monterey told me I must dine at L'Esaminet de la Royale, their favorite restaurant in France. They said they had been going there for years and had become friendly with the vivacious owners. With that winning recommendation I booked a table for Friday dinner. The restaurant was charming and Jacques, one of the owners greeted me warmly. I immediately told him him that Jerry & Daniel sent me and he couldn't have been more gracious. He profusely praised the boys and sent them his best regards. It goes without saying the service was great. I started with two slices of two different types of jellied vegetable terrines topped with white asparagus spears, served with a glass chilled avocado soup. It looked gorgeous and tasted even better than it looked. It was a perfect light, summer dish and the soup was one of the best chilled soups I ever had. Calves liver was simply prepared but a little on the thick side accompanied by a potato gratin and fresh steamed vegetables. Dessert was an fresh apple tart with a caramel and vanilla syrup. The apples on top barely had any sugar on them so that you fully appreciated the intensity of the syrup. Many thanks Jerry and Daniel for this memorable and special meal.

If you love good art, excellent food and great architecture, a trip to Lille is a must.

Meert
27 rue Esquermoise, Lille
Tel. 00 33 (0)3 20 01 84 21
Closed on Sundays
www.meert.fr

L'Estaminet
37 rue Royale, Lille
Tel.  00 33 (0) 3 20 42 10 11
Lunch Monday to Saturday
Dinner only on Friday night
Reservations necessary

Jacques from L'Estminet de la Royale- Monsieur Friendly

Carbo loading

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Cost: 185 euros per person (about $240)
Time: 9:30AM- 2PM (approximately 4 1/2 hours)
Location: We will meet by a metro station close to the market
Class days: Wednesday, Thursday, Saturday, and Sunday
Minimum of 3 students, maximum 6 students.

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I look forward to meeting you on my tours and it will be my pleasure and delight to show you my insiders Paris.
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Comments

[Anne]

Hello Richard..what a wonderful place to visit, I have been wanting to go to lille for years, never been yet...you have made me think more about going..Thanks for this wonderful post..Meert looks amazing..chocolates with coffee too..!!

[Maureen]

Love all the parts of Lille.........every little part....feel like I know it a little better from the Gothic Cathedral to the pomme tartin!!! Merci beaucoup....!

[Elfie]

Thanks for this valuable info and pics are mouthwatering. must check it out next time I come.

[Laurence]

You got me hungry... nice photos.

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