Restaurant Review: Schwartz's Deli

Written by Emily Monaco

“I’m only here cause I’m a Jew,” my friend Matt said as we sat at one of the empty tables at new New York style deli Schwartz’s.

In a way, it was true. Until now, the only American food I’ve tried here in Paris has been 1) Made by myself, 2) Purchased at one of the overpriced American stores here in Paris or 3) Served at Breakfast in America. Nothing against giant pancakes and eight euro Oreos, but this wasn’t the American food I was missing: as a New Yorker, the things I miss the most here in Paris are things like scrambled eggs and lox and bagels with cream cheese.

When I finally decided to try out Schwartz’s, I knew I would have to pick my dining companions carefully: I’ve been missing good pastrami so much that I might have been tricked into loving something that wasn’t actually that great. I decided to bring two friends: Alex, a Parisian who had never tried Jewish food at all, and Matt, a fellow expatriated American, this one raised on chicken soup and matzo brei.

 I knew immediately what I would be ordering: the pastrami sandwich had “the best” written under it in big red letters, so that was first on my list. In the end, Matt and I both decided to get the pastrami as well as a bowl of matzo soup to start. Alex decided to go with what he knew and get a burger: the Schwartz’s burger to be exact, complete with smoked duck, a fried egg, mushrooms and cheddar cheese.
    

A waiter came to take our order and bring us a basket of matzo, warning us that because we were in the middle of Pesach there would be no bread served with the sandwiches. Luckily, the matzo was unlimited, and Matt approved: “This is really good matzo. Take this from someone who’s been eating this stuff for his whole life.”

 While we waited for our food to arrive, we had ample time to look around the restaurant: at the front was a meat counter that could have been out of a New York Jewish deli had it not been for the random additions of several Italian sandwich meats. Covering the walls were posters and photographs of American celebrities, mostly from the 50s and 60s. I recognized a North by Northwest poster as well as a picture of the first moon landing. I even saw a case of Dr. Pepper stashed on a high shelf. It felt like New York, I’m surprised to say.

The soup came, and to be honest, it looked nothing like what I’m used to. What are usually soft, white matzo balls were brown and flecked with dark crumbs: if I had to guess, they were made with actual cooked matzo bread and not the typical matzo meal.Three matzo balls floated in the broth along with a few pieces of skinless white meat chicken and some snipped chives. Although it was quite tasty, we all agreed that it could have used some of the carrots, onions and celery that usually feature in a rustic matzo ball soup. Even Alex, who had no expectations, quite eloquently commented, “Pas assez de trucs.” Not enough stuff.

Our mains came, and luckily, there was a lot more “stuff” to go around, including a deli-style pickle, which I tried immediately. It was lacking that stereotypical crunch, but I was happy to have a pickle in any form. Matt, however, did not agree and instead concentrated on the other side dishes: home fries (not crispy enough either) and coleslaw. “The only word you can really use to describe it is ‘lavender,’” he said, finishing his off and reaching for mine. I’m not a huge fan of coleslaw to begin with, but tinted purple from red cabbage as it may have been, Matt said that this particular slaw was delicious.

The most important part, of course, was “the best” pastrami: I loved it. There was a huge pile of it, enough for an American portion size. It was salty and delicious and everything I love, although Matt added that it was sliced a little bit too thin for his tastes.
 

Although everything I ordered was great, the best thing that came to the table was, in fact, Alex’s burger: people spend so much time and effort trying to find a great Paris burger, and Schwartz’s has it down. It was rare and juicy with a generous amount of cheddar cheese: the perfect burger.

Would I go back? Yes… I think I would. I’d still like to try the scrambled eggs with lox (only available on the weekends) and maybe a bagel. Then again, I may be spoiled by my background, and I have a feeling that I will never be fully satisfied with the Parisian version of my comfort foods. At any rate, I’ll definitely be recommending the Schwartz’s burger as the best in town.

Schwartz's Deli
16 rue des Ecouffes, 4th arr.
Metro: St. Paul
Tel. 01 48 87 31 29
Open 7 days for lunch and dinner
www.schwartzsdeli.fr

 Emily Monaco is an American student/expat from New York who has (hopefully permanently) moved to Paris. She spends her time in Paris seeking out artsy movie theaters, eating in amazing restaurants and trying to figure out how to use the Vélib.

http://travelday.today.com

I am pleased as punch to announce the launch of Eye Prefer Paris Tours, which are 3-hour walking tours I will personally be leading. The Eye Prefer Paris Tour includes many of the places I have written about such as small museums & galleries, restaurants, cafes & food markets, secret addresses, fashion & home boutiques, parks, and much more.

I look forward to meeting you on my tours and it will be my pleasure and delight to show you my insiders Paris.
Check it out at www.eyepreferparistours.com

Comments

[Audrey]

I think it is so funny that they would not serve bread, but did serve your friend a cheeseburger! Go back and have the pastrami on rye. It's just wrong to have pastrami on matzoh!!

L'chaim!

[Steve]

We will definitely go after reading your review even if just for the cheeseburger, Nu, so who knew ?

There is only one deli in our hearts and that is the Carnegie. The cheesecake is without a doubt the best on the planet.
Their recipe is on their website and I made it twice.

[lynne]

This sounds great! Although I doubt one can find a burger with smoked duck in NYC!

[Emily]

Audrey- As you can tell from the pictures, even the burger did not have bread. Luckily, French people are used to "steak haché," and the lack of bread did not make a bit of difference!

[Julien]

If you want the best burger in Paris, definitely go to Bugsy's, rue Montalivet in the 8th.
I think I've tried pretty much all places where they serve burgers and this one is by far the best I've had.

[Audrey]

Steve,
You may be right, but if you go to DB Bistro you can get a burger stuffed with fois gras and short ribs!

[Natasha]

I think Audrey's point wasn't that the burger was served on matzah, but that a cheeseburger is inherently unkosher! Surely as a New Yorker you know that?? Never mind!

[Emily]

Natasha- Thanks for the heads up! I did know that, but I didn't make the connection.